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Sedans Chevrolet Malibu 2008-2009 Chevrolet Malibu
1299 messages, Last post on Nov 18, 2009 at 10:31 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Malibu Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: m3fan3 (Nov 15, 2009 10:19 pm) Mine is 09 Malibu LT2 I4 AT6. I'm still not sure where this steering issue is at. My suspicions are 1) something to do with electric power steering, 2) related to alignment, or 3) the tires. On the alignment issue, there are two points the way this is aligned compared to what good alignments would be. First, it is stated that for best straight line handling the left side castor should generally be higher than the right side. Mine is the opposite. Second, I have issue with the spec for left front camber being different than right side. They tell me this is more common with newer vehicles. Most vehicles would only have this if you intend to drive in circles. Another measurement that is relative to camber is the SAI (something like steering arm inclination). You add this to the camber to get the "included angle" and the difference side to side is supposed to be zero. One of the things this effects is the natural returning to center of the steering if you let loose of the steering wheel coming out of a turn. My print out does not give a specified range for SAI, Included Angle, Turning Angle Difference, Cross SAI, Cross Turn Difference, or on the rear, the Cross Camber. They did give the actual readings of most of these. I plan on having another shop look at it. 3) Tires. I am not happy with a couple of characteristics of these FR710s, but can not say they are definitely effecting this loose feeling at center until the other two items are ruled out. Not without investing in a new set of tires on a maybe.
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 16, 2009 3:47 am) Comment from the Hertz counter, two of them told me they see far more business from Chevy than any other dealership they work with.
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2008 Chevy Malibu Annoying Shrieking Brakes does anyone know if this is under warranty?I have about 13 thousand Mile on the LS .
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 16, 2009 3:55 am)
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Replying to: rogerdoger45 (Nov 16, 2009 2:07 pm) We are in the 18th month of ownership of our 2008 Malibu LS. Well would you know it--our 2008 Malibu with 15,000 miles was doing fine until the brakes suddenly started to pulsate. We took it to the dealership and their technician determined that the brake rotors had excessive “run out” (whatever that means). They resurfaced the two front rotors and road test. The tech says pulsation was better after the resurfacing but still there. They then resurfaced the rear rotors, which feel much better although not as good as original. Also, the shrill or shrieking noise at drive-off was eliminated. Thank God that annoying noise is gone. Both repairs were covered under warranty. When we asked how much it cost they refuse to disclose that information. Not that it matters since Obama has guaranteed all GM warranties. .
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Replying to: m3fan3 (Nov 16, 2009 9:45 pm) It seems both components will effect handling. Sway bar components because it will affect the natural height side to side, thus affecting the alignment. Are you saying the twitching is no longer needed? Are you sure that the alignment has not been affected so that it pulls into one end of the twitch constantly. If so, watch out for when a bump or something decides to steer the vehicle to the opposite end of that twitch zone. Hope you've got your troubles solved. With todays technology we should be able to run a vehicle to 100K trouble & defect free, except for oil, filter, and tires, excepting abuse type issues. I've had more than vehicle where pads lasted 100K and one of them had heavy diesel motor. It seems that all could. They just have to tighten quality control.
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Replying to: bwia (Nov 17, 2009 4:44 am) They turn your rotors, but still not as good as it was. They've removed metal from them and you can usually only do this once, so next time you have to buy new ones, most often not covered under warranty, unless you can prove it was their fault. Since it was covered, but still not as good, I'd demand new ones. So, why did they warp? Nearly all of the time it is because of improper tightening of wheel nuts. Enevenly tightened or overtightened. If they tell you it is because you ran through some water, BS. That only accelerated the real cause which would be improper tightening or a bad design. Most designs are pretty standard and I know of none that have a particular issue. (an example of a design that is a problem because of design would be Tiburon clutch pressure plate. For those who don't know, this is a piece of metal similar to rotor that spins and similarly brake pads engage it as a clutch pad does. They redesigned the center mount and made it out of aluminum. Result, premature failure of components, warping, in as little as 10K. Not covered under warranty.) It is a sure bet you've had tires rotated and/or balanced. They did not use a torque wrench to tighten, but an impact instead. That is the reason for your trouble. Make them show you that torque wrench in the tire and brake bay, not one from someone elses area or tool box. Buy yourself a torque wrench, $20 and up, and the socket needed, ~$5. Keep it in the trunk and check before leaving dealer anytime a wheel is removed. About 10 minutes to check all nuts. Loosen slightly and then tighten to the setting of the wrench. The cheap wrench may not be accurately calibrated, but then even expensive ones should be recalibrated periodically. If it has been, it will have a calibration sticker on it saying when and by whom. Even if yours is not calibrated accurately, you won't likely be using it much and it would not be off by much unless you got a really bad one. The most important part to prevent warpage is that the nuts all have the same torque which will be acheived even if it is off a few pounds. |
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 17, 2009 8:16 am)
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Replying to: m3fan3 (Nov 18, 2009 12:07 am)
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Replying to: e_net_rider (Nov 18, 2009 8:10 am) http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm |
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