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Honda Civic Brake Questions

17 messages,  Last post on Sep 05, 2008 at 9:33 PM

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What is this discussion about? Honda Civic, Honda Civic del Sol, Honda Civic CRX, Brakes, Coupe, Sedan


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#10 of 17
note on brake pad choice and turning rotors... by cz75
Jun 08, 2007 (11:11 am)
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It isn't uncommon for uneven pad transfer to be confused with warpage, which seldom occurs on brakes except by uneven or over-tightening of the lug nuts. OEM brakes are generally noise-free, but also not the best performing by a long stretch. They often don't take heat well, fading around 700 degrees or so, such that one hard, panic stop or lots of hills, curves and stop-and-go will elevate their temperature and cause the pad material to fade, as well as smear and melt on the rotor. These can become "hot spots" that cause the metal underneath to harden, which will cause these areas to wear less than the rest of the rotor and form high spots. Turning the rotor will even up the surface, but the hardening goes deep and the problem will come back.
 
Aftermarket performance oriented brakes are generally much better, but usually noisier (from a little to a lot) and often produce more brake dust, since there is often no such thing as a free lunch. I've been pretty happy with PBR/Axxis ultimates (fade critical at 1000 degrees), but they also make a premium line that offers slightly better than OEM performance for almost no penalty over OEM pads. Other companies like Hawk, also make pads like the HPS (fade critical around 800 degrees), but I've put these on family member vehicles and noticed the warpage issue, especially after the Folks moved from Kansas, with few hills, to N. Kentucky with lots of hills that require a lot of braking.
#11 of 17
1993 Honda Civic brake problem. by jungieb
Jun 15, 2007 (9:27 am)
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I have a 1993 honda civic. The brakes are spongy and pedal travels all the way down before brake holds but only this happens when outside temperature reaches high 80's or so. In the early morning or during the winter the brake holds perfectly. I have bled the system thinking there may be trapped air. Checked the vacuum check valve for suction and is ok. What could it be? Faulty brake power booster?
#12 of 17
booster by kenlw
Jun 15, 2007 (10:24 am)
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Replying to: jungieb (Jun 15, 2007 9:27 am)

sounds like the master cylinder experiencing bypass (inernal leakage). A rebuilt master cylinder would be the solution if that is the cause.
#13 of 17
Re: booster [kenlw] by jungieb
Jun 17, 2007 (3:36 pm)
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Replying to: kenlw (Jun 15, 2007 10:24 am)

It's another hot day in Southern California hovering at 100 F but fortunately I have replaced my master cylinder early this morning, thanks for your advice, and my brakes are working just fine. I thank you again!
#14 of 17
Brake Rust Cleaning? by jean18uni
Aug 28, 2008 (6:51 am)
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I just had the 30k mile service done on my 05 LX at the dealer. The service dept. called and said I had some rust on my rear brakes that needed to be removed, to the tune of $120. What's up with this? Is this a scam?
#15 of 17
Re: Brake Rust Cleaning? [jean18uni] by cz75
Sep 04, 2008 (5:18 pm)
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Replying to: jean18uni (Aug 28, 2008 6:51 am)

The shoes should clean the rust off the inside of the drum as the brakes work.
#16 of 17
Re: Brake Rust Cleaning? [cz75] by jean18uni
Sep 05, 2008 (4:02 am)
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Replying to: cz75 (Sep 04, 2008 5:18 pm)

Yeah, that's what I thought too. Guess that dealership lost a customer...
#17 of 17
Re: Brake Rust Cleaning? [jean18uni] by cz75
Sep 05, 2008 (9:33 pm)
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Replying to: jean18uni (Sep 05, 2008 4:02 am)

I never go to the dealer except for warranty work. Most have a bunch of dum-dums working there with one or two who actually know something to keep an eye on the rest. However, anyone who's remotely any good can usually move on to open their own shop or get a better deal at the next dealer down the street, so there may not even be one or two good ones. I try to get recommendations of a good Honda-oriented independent mechanic and haven't been disappointed very often.

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