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Sedans Cadillac DeVille Cadillac DeVille Electrical/Lighting
151 messages, Last post on Oct 27, 2009 at 1:37 PM
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2002 standard NorthStar engine - 225K miles - when car is moving on a level concrete road, it will accelerate andhold a speed of about 60MPH with no curise control and no pressure on the accelerator. Putting tranny in Neutral while vehicle is in motion results in idle speed of between 2,400 and 2,600 RPM until car runs out of gas (for you guys who want to know How Long?) or until the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Within 3 seconds after complete stop, the idle speed takes about 5 seconds to gradually reduce to 1,400 to 1,600 RPM. Have changed all sensors called for in error codes. Cleaned throttle body. Cold start idle is normal until engine reaches normal operating temperature, then it speeds up. I am not a mechanic, but I sincerely believe this is not caused by some sticky accelerator or other strictly operator controlled mechanical reason. It is in the computers somewhere - of course, I already told you I ain't no mechanic - or service tech either. THANKS fo your help.
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Anyone know the trick to replacing the bulbs that illuminate the license plate on a 2001 Deville DHS? You can't access the bulb from inside the trunk so there must be a way to just remove the plastic transparent cover on the outside, but I don't want to break it in the process.
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Replying to: sickcaddy (Jan 28, 2007 6:48 pm) Next, did you said you cleaned the throttle body. Did you clean just the tube, or did you also clean the throttle butterfly valve. And clean it good, both the front and back of the valve. Was there a ridge of gook where the valve closes on the intake? You must scrub the gunk off with a toothbrush and carb cleaner, front and back. The back will be much worse. The gunk will cause a Northstar to actually have the throttle hang. Mechanical binding of the throttle cable? On the 1997 Northstar I messed with, there is an Idle Control Valve on the intake. There is a (what's it called, the thing that feeds exhaust gas back into the intake??) The idle control and EGR (that's the name, exhaust gas recirculation) valves are right there on the intake, by the throttle valve, and these can be taken off and the passages checked and cleaned. An Idle Control Valve usually has an electrical solonid on it, do not get carb cleaner into the electrical part. But clean passages. There is also a Mass Air Sensor on the intake. I've never taken a Northstar appart, only a Ford Ranger. It has very fine wires inside that can be cleaned by spray electrical cleaner, I think carb cleaner is too strong for these. Be very careful with Mass Air, the wire is very fine. Do not touch. All these effect idle and at high milage can be gunked, dirty , etc. Anyway, something else to check. You have high milage on this car. |
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| just bought a 98 Cadillac Deville Concours,,, for $800.00,,, I don't really know if it was that much of a steel... as far as driving it seem to b ok... but every time i start the car the truck pops open... i have to get a jump every time i start the car... is it alternator and electric problems... i am nervous on taking it to a shop thinking they might rape me... has any 1 had this problem...the guy who sold me the car said that it really ain't nothing.. but i'm getting tierd off staring the car and having to get out to close the truck... is this a big problem to get fixed... | |
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2000 CADILLAC DEVILLE DTS This is a complicated discription of my problem, so I'll jump right into it. As you read this, keep in mind that my back-up lights NEVER work. My brake lights work properly when the headlights are off. All three of them come on, and no bulbs are out. With the headlights on: When I turn my headlights on, the third brakelight (above the license plate) does not work. The license plate lights are extremely dim, not really illuminating the license plate at all. The light-up pattern of the taillights is different also. The entire taillight is lit, except for the lower inside quarter of each taillight (not applying the brakes). When braking, they light up properly, and they blink properly with the blinker on. If I disconnect the third brakelight, the normal taillight pattern comes back (a thin stripe on the outside edge of each taillight), but all other problems remain. The trunk courtesy light is always dim. When it is removed, the license plate lights go off. The license plate lights also go off when the trunk release is disconnected. It seems to me like the trunk is not getting the proper voltage to carry all the lights. POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS: 1. Replace the wiring harness in the trunk (Grounded by the left taillight) 2. Replace the headlight switch 3. Replace the dim bulbs and see what happens. Also, could the traction control be carried on the same wiring through the trunk? Because when this started, the yellow traction control light comes on in the instrument panel periodically. I can't pinpoint what is triggering it though. When that light is on, I cannot manually disengage the traction control with the button on the center console. This could be a separate problem though. Can anyone help me, or direct me to someone who can? The car can't pass inspection without the third brakelight and backup lights. |
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Replying to: dtstl (Apr 22, 2007 12:17 pm)
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Replying to: caddipimp (Apr 10, 2007 3:45 pm) I'm at a loss as to what could be wrong. Have you received any good directions what to do with your problem? I won't drive until I am sure the problem is fixed. |
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Hi, I´m new here so sorry if I´m posting in wrong forum. I own a Seville 1991 V8. There are two fuses under the hood named INJ (Probably Injection?) of 7,5 A each. One of them are very often popping which makes the engine only perform 50% of it´s capacity according to my experience. Any ideas of where to start analysing the problem? Kind Regards Himzo |
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Replying to: bolivar (Apr 28, 2007 12:37 am) |
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