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Cadillac DeVille General Care & Maintenance

86 messages, Last post on Apr 03, 2008 at 3:00 PM
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If you have a 99 or up NBS GM truck check out and print this link for the oil change guy to locate and lube ALL the zerk fittings: http://gm-trucks.com/home/content/view/123/25/ |
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As mentioned in a recent post I have recently purchased a Lincoln Town Car to use with my Deville. Since buying the Lincoln I have been using it almost every day in order to get familiar with it. As of today the Deville had not been out for five days. Both cars are kept in an insulated garage including insulated door. I wondered if there is any guideline as to how often the Deville should be started and or driven to avoid even minimal deterioration? I want to be quick to point out that I have no favorite between these two fine cars but the lack of usage for the Deville is temporary. All replies and suggestions appreciated.
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Replying to: bremertong (Jul 26, 2006 8:14 pm) |
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I have to have the water pump replaced on my 96 deville. I have the water pump and the special tool. However, I do not have a manual to see if I am taking the right things off. I am wondering two things. One, I read on another forum that the engine needs to be jacked up about 4 inches to get the pump out.( I had never heard this before and am wondering if it is true.) and Two, If in fact it would be wise to replace the water pump belts while I have the cover open and how hard is it to do that? One of the other posts on this forum states that the dealer advised the customer that he needed to clean the grooves on the pulley when he replaced the belts. Is that necessary and what would one use to do that if it is so?
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Replying to: gamafax (Sep 28, 2006 11:39 am) I can't tell you everything to take off - I do remember there is a protective cover over the belt - remove this to get to the nuts/bolts on the belt. Then just take off everything to get to the side of the pump, where I think there is a cover over it. There should be an o-ring in the back of the pump after it is pulled, the new pump should have a new o-ring. They say to coat it with antifreeze before installing. I've never heard the engine needs to be jacked up. You do know this is on the driver side of the car, top of motor, at the end of the upper radiator hose???? If the belt has cracks in the back, replace it. If the 'grooves' are cracked much, I would replace it. You are in there, it is only about $12 or so - replace it. The belt tensioner needs to be oiled so it moves freely, it pivots on a shaft. My dealer told me they would clean the grooves when they replaced a belt. I think this probably was nonsense. But when I replaced main drive belt and water pump belt, I used a toothbrush on all the grooved pulleys, and felt a fool while doing it. Needed a new toothbrush afterwards, too. |
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maintenance, if you must go thru the hassle of changing the water pump, would it not be prudent to change the belt, check the pully, and change ALL hoses at that time???...heck, if the AC has a separate belt, change it, too, and not worry for the next 50K-plus miles...
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Replying to: marsha7 (Sep 30, 2006 4:05 pm) But.... a Northstar has hoses that are not changed on a 'whim'. The main upper and lower radiator hoses are simple, but the other heater, surge tank, and various bypass hoses are a real mess. Some of these are green 'silicone' high temperature hoses. You better not replace these with regular black heater hoses, they will probably soon melt. On my 1995, I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses and the drive belt (there is only one) and the water pump belt (this is a little short belt driven off the rear of the front cam shaft). I looked at the other hoses and decided they would stay in there until they looked a lot worse. Course I sold the car much before I thought they needed changing. |
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im tryna recharge my A/C unit on this 98 deville but its like aint nothin goin in...I got the gage and it be reading over in the yellow zone, but the dash keep sayin..."low refridgerant - A/C off" its gettin hot out here i need some help
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