Last post on May 09, 2013 at 12:07 PM
You are in the Jaguar S-Type
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Jaguar S-Type, Jaguar S-Type R, Heating / Cooling, Sedan
#75 of 106 lower ball joints 2001 Jaguar S type
Mar 25, 2010 (10:59 am)
Hello, i have a 2001 Jaguar S type that needs the front 2 left and right side lower ball joints replaced. I am thinking of ordering the parts from MacAuto parts (part number XR8041215J). They only sell the ball joints and not the vertical link. The dealerships only sell the ball joints with the vertical link, however I was able to find the ball joints without the vertical link. I was wondering if anyone had a similar problem and if it possible to replace just the ball joints without the vertical link? How can I do this and do you know if the parts from Mac auto parts are any good?
#76 of 106 Re: lower ball joints 2001 Jaguar S type [dehya]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Mar 25, 2010 (11:21 am)
How did you determine that the ball joints need replacing?
You are allowed .8mm play in them. You raise the vehicle and put a jackstand under the lower suspension arm. Then wiggle the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and have someone note the play in the ball joint.
Also be aware that there was a recall on this car for loose ball joints because the joint nuts were not tightened to proper spec. You might get away with tightening them if they haven't been hammered too badly.
#77 of 106 2004 S type dual climate with passenger side stuck on heat
Apr 08, 2010 (10:16 am)
I have a 2004 S type 4.2L with dual climate control. The Passenger side is stuck on heat. A local shop replaced the heater control valve which looks like a dual acting valve. I am guessing that it controls hot water to split cores one for the driver and one for the passenger. The valve does not look new so maybe they did not replace it like they said.
There are the following 3 Lines of data on the side of the valve:
1 147 412 175
2R8H – 18495- AC
My question is does the heater control valve regulate the heating temperature by turning on or off the flow of hot water to the coils. If so, then I should be able to apply 12V to the solenoid on top the coil and shut off the flow to the side of the core that is stuck on heat, or is the heat regulated by diverting air flow of the hot air to the outside of the car by some sort of vent damper. I have also read that there are some evaporator temperature sensors that fail and wont send the 12V to the valve. They are supposed to be easy to change and only cost about $20.00. I tried to remove one of them and could not get it out. Is there a special tool that is needed?
#78 of 106 Solution: 2004 S type dual climate with passenger side stuck on heat
Apr 08, 2010 (11:32 pm)
New valves should look "brand-spankin' new" and shiny. Let's hope your replacement valve is actually good. (don't worry, we can figure that out...see below for test procedure)
Unlike some other vehicles, the S-Type doesn't use a mixing door for AC/heater temperature control. All AC air always travels through the heater core.
*IMPORTANT* Do not blindly apply 12V to the valve's terminals. The valve control is an active ground setup. On a dual valve, the middle terminal is always Hot +12to14V, while the outer 2 terminals are either floating or grounded.
The Climate Control Module sends a ground "signal" to the valve(s), which closes it and impedes the flow of hot water/coolant to the heater core under the dash. For intermediate temperature settings, the module constantly cycles the signal to control how cold the AC blows out the vents. "Lo" temperature setting keeps the valve closed. "Hi" setting keeps the valve open. The problem with this is that as the heater valve ages (i.e. corrodes), it starts to pass more and more current back to the module. Even if the heater valve still works in that state, the board and components in the module, which aren't designed to handle this situation, end up getting literally fried by the high current. So, this heater valve control circuit just stops working, and the valve defaults to full open.
The evaporator temperature sensors -can- be -a- cause of such problem, but in most cases I've seen, this isn't where the problem comes from. To remove, just pull..harder. They are tight.
Chances are, the old valve had already damaged your module. So replacing the valve, although a step in the right direction, didn't completely solve the problem.
If you can use a multimeter to take voltage, current, and resistance measurements, you can follow my test procedure below to help us determine if the valve and/or module are good or bad:
1. Run the engine.
2. Set the controls to max "Lo" for both driver and passenger sides.
3. Confirm that the air is still blowing hot (take note which side blows hot or if it's hot for both driver and passenger sides).
4. Disconnect the plug from the valve and take voltage measurements at all 3 contacts in the plug. The middle contact should read 14v or so.
5. Take resistance measurements at the 2 outer contacts in the plug (measure between each contact and a chassis ground). The 2 outer contacts should read close to 0 ohms.
6. Jumper the middle contact in the plug to the middle contact at the valve. Jumper one outer contact in the plug to the corresponding outer contact at the valve using the multimeter to measure current. Be careful that you don't short anything with the middle contact in the plug (it's always hot +12v-14v). Repeat the measurement at the other outer contact after disconnecting the first outer contact (don't disconnect the middle contacts yet). Each measurement should read 0.9 to 1.1amps. If the measurement in step 5 showed a much higher resistance than 0 ohms, then the current measurement will not give a proper result.
7. With the middle contacts still jumpered between the plug and valve, jumper an outer contact on the valve to a chassis ground, while using the multimeter to measure current. Check to see if any vents blow cooler air during this grounding process. Repeat the measurement at the other outer contact and check the vents again.
8. Reconnect the plug to the valve.
9. Shut off the engine.
10. Report the results back to Jeff. e-mail to: jaguarclimatecontrolgmail.com
Once we confirm that the module is bad, then you can decide if you want to pay a 4-figure sum to the dealer for a new module (only to have it die again when the valve goes bad again), or have me:
1. Repair the damaged module.
2. Upgrade the valve control circuit to protect against damage caused by a dying valve in the future.
#79 of 106 Climate Control Module
May 04, 2010 (9:19 pm)
I have a 2005 Jaguar 4.2 S-type. In Aug 09, my AC starting blowing hot air out the driver's vents and cool air out the passenger's vents if I closed the vents on the driver's side. Took the car to an air conditioning specialist and they told me it was the heater control valve that needed to be replaced for a total of $900. I delayed repairs why I tried to find the part on the internet to do the replacement myself. Not too long afterwards I noticed coolant leaking. I eventually had the heater control valve and the auxillary water pump replaced. No change to the A/C. Took the car to the dealer to find out the Climate Control module was shot and replacement would be $1,800+.
Solution: Two weeks ago I trusted the post from Jeffsl and sent my module to him for repairs. In less than 2 days he had it repaired and ready for return to me. I reinstalled the module and I've got my cold air back. That was the BEST $275 (I paid $25 for insurance) repair ever!!
If you're having A/C issues, give Jeffsl a try jaguarclimatecontrolgmail.com thanks Jeff!!!
#80 of 106 Heating and cooling problem
May 06, 2010 (3:47 pm)
I have a 1999 S-Type 3-liter.
When it rains hard, the inside of the windows get damped very fast.
I have to put the blower to HIGH and after some minutes the damp disappears.
During winter, defrosting the window took many minutes. It really take a long time to get warm air blowing.
Sometimes the airconditioning blows a stinking air into the cabin.
The air is not getting cold when it should do and and not getting warm when expected.
However, sometimes, I hear a clicking noise, and it looks like the airco start working. At the same time this stinking air is back..
But the next moment it does not work at all.
There are no leaks.
So, what can be the problem. Is it the A/C module of a fuse?
#81 of 106 Re: 2004 S Type [ivey2]
Jun 04, 2010 (8:33 pm)
I had the same issue on my 2007 S type R...was lucky enough that it was still under warranty. Apparently the issue is common enough that a bulletin was sent out to the dealers ( # JTB00066 TSB. ?) . It turns out that the mysterious sounds comes from defective defrost recirculation door actuator servo motor (at least in my case) ...took dealer a good 3-4 hours to swap. So far so good...no more gurgling.
#82 of 106 Re: 2000 s-type jaguar [jaymzs]
Jun 08, 2010 (5:03 pm)
I own a s type jag 2001 model...its only got 44,000 kms on it and runs brilliantly...recently i went overseas and when i came back found that the heater only blows air but the air is not hot so it does not warm the car...can anyone sugest what may be wrong with it/
#83 of 106 problem with heating in 2001 s type jag
Jun 08, 2010 (5:05 pm)
I own a s type jag 2001 model...its only got 44,000 kms on it and runs brilliantly...recently i went overseas and when i came back found that the heater only blows air but the air is not hot so it does not warm the car...can anyone sugest what may be wrong with it?
#84 of 106 Re: Solution: 2004 S type dual climate with passenger side stuck on heat [jeffsl]
Jun 14, 2010 (7:00 am)
Hey Jeff how r u? I am having trouble with my AC. I have a 2005 Jaguar S-type. I took it to the dealership they said I need a AC Control Module, which costs $1600. Please help me if you can.