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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Starting / Stalling Questions
94 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 11:18 PM
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Replying to: athurai (Aug 20, 2008 8:10 pm) |
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Replying to: frankrom22 (Aug 10, 2007 9:10 am) |
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| my wife had her toy just die a couple of days ago stalled while driving, all electical drained just checked batt it is dead not sure where to start any suggestions tried hooking jumper cables just sprarks like grounding out dont see any cables or wires bare initially | |
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When I experienced this in the past, it turned out that an animal had gotten up into my engine and eaten the coating off the wires (it apparently has fish oil or something in the coating that makes it appetizing to critters such as snakes, rodents, skunks, etc.) It is apparently very common once the weather turns cold for animals to like to climb up inside warm car engines to stay warm, and then they find they like chewing on the wiring coatings. The exposed wires then caused shorting out, and the car shuttered and then died. When this happened the first time, it caused the computer that runs my engine to short out, so the whole computer and most of my wires had to be replaced/repaired (the mechanic even showed me all the little chewed bits of rubber around the engine to explain to me about the animal, although we didn't see signs of the critter - sometimes it will kill the critter and you'll find the snake or whatever still there). BTW, when I called the insurance company to see if they would cover the cost, I was surprised that they would, and they said it actually is somewhat common. Unfortunately, when they did the initial repair, they failed to spot one bundle of exposed wires that was hidden by an after-market security system my car had. So, more than ten years later, my car again had electrical failure when the battery was fine, and a resourceful mechanic trying to diagnose it asked for permission to remove the (now-defunct) security system, and when he did, discovered the one bundle that hadn't been repaired. Over the years the exposed wires had corroded to the green hue "of the Stature of Liberty" as he described it, and they finally got so hot they fused together, causing the car to die. He replaced that one bundle and again my problem was resolved. Hope this is helpful. |
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I have a 1999 Camry. I installed a new battery (I must have had a mental lapse) and connected the cables backwards. Short story: I blew fuses. I have replaced the 100 amp alternator fuse and the engine will crank but not start. The lights, radio, dome, etc. will not come on. I know there is another fuse that is blown but I don't know where. I have checked all under the hood and under the driverside dash. CAN YOU HELP?
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Replying to: graybear56 (Jan 27, 2009 8:20 pm) When you say you replaced the 100Amp alternator fuse, was it blown? |
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Replying to: graybear56 (Jan 27, 2009 8:20 pm) The battery feeds two things, direct hotwire power to the starter motor, and also to the input of a fusible link (I suspect this fusible link may be bad in your case). -> The output of that fusible link, feeds a couple things. It feeds the input to the 100A alternator fuse which you indicate you replaced, it feeds the input to the 30Amp AM2 fuse, the input to the 5A Alt-S fuse, and the input to the the 40A main fuse. --->Now the output of the 100A alternator fuse, feeds the input to the 40A AM1 fuse, and also one of the wires to the alternator. --->The output of the 40A main, goes to the starter relay (secondary), which ultimately then goes to the starter motor. --->The output of the 30A AM2, goes to one of the two circuits in the ignition switch (called AM2). --->The output of the 5A Alt-S, is a wire that also goes to the alternator. If you have a voltmeter, you can begin checking where you have power, and where you don't. So for instance, if you pulled the AM2 fuse, and did not find any voltage on either of the two prong holes, then you'd know something 'upstream' of that was bad, which is the 100Amp fuse you replaced, and then upstream of that is the fusible link. In this hypothetical situation, if you then checked the 100Amp fuse and both lugs were okay with 13+volts of power, then you'd look for a fried wire/block going from the 100A fuse to AM2. More than likely however, hopefully it's one of the fuses or fusible links that is blown.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jan 28, 2009 6:54 am) |
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Replying to: kiawah (Jan 28, 2009 6:54 am)
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Replying to: graybear56 (Jan 28, 2009 11:15 am) Check to see if: - the 40A Main is blown, - whether the 30A AM2 is blown, - and whether your headlights work. If neither the 40A Main or the 30A AM2 look blown, then you are going to need a voltmeter. Do you have one? and know how to use it? You can pick a simple one (either analog or digital would be fine for this task) at radio shack or chain auto parts stores (pep boys, autozone, etc). I'd guess you could get one for 10-20 bucks.
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