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GMC Yukon Small Problems and Aggravations

69 messages, Last post on Jan 19, 2009 at 6:37 AM
You are in the GMC Yukon Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: smiller65 (Nov 26, 2007 8:59 pm) Haven't decided what to do yet; right now I'm just making sure the lights are off and the key is out. Thanks again. Arnie |
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I have an 03 Yukon and the ignition switch at times seems to be sticking. When you first start the vehicle and you turn it over and then let the ignition key turn back to the original position the starter is still turning over. Happens at least twice a week. It will stop and then you can turn the key over again and the engine will start. Can anyone help me with this? |
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I hope I get some constructive feedback as the dealerships service is lacking in some areas. I do like this vehicle but the problems are, the headlights flicker usually when going around sweeping lefthand turns, 40 mph or more. This isn't more than 5 miles per hour over the speed limit so it's not like I'm pushing the vehicle beyond it's limits. They also flicker when going over rough roads, this isn't as noticable as the sweeping turn problem. I've had the truck in for service, they replaced one of the headlight brackets and it helped some. But the problem is still there. I had the service dude drive it one night and he didn't notice anything, not surprised. So here I am with a light issue that I really want to put behind me. Another issue is when driving up my driveway in icy conditions the headlights again flicker and also when I break and the antilock breaks kick in. I mentioned this to service and the response was, the vehicle is getting hit with a 30 amp surge and this is normal. Come on, I'm sure this is not normal and this would have been figured in as the vehicle was being constructed. Plus I'd like to know where I can get a replacement knob for the radio. Hope you can help.
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Replying to: 21ert11 (Jan 13, 2008 10:45 am) My guess is that you have a short that only comes into play when the vibration, or side force, on the vehicle brings something (probably a wire, probably with worn insulation), into contact with the frame or body (or maybe another wire). I'd say follow the wire back from headlight (do both flicker, or just one side? on low beams or high?). A wiring diagram in the shop manual will help you find the color of the wire(s) you're looking for. Look for any bare wire. Then tape it. --- Good luck. Electrical problems can drive you nuts! Arnie |
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Could start and drive the Yukon as long as it was driven every day. If I let it sit for a day or two, the battery would die. After trips to several mechanics and dealers and several batteries, I (not a mechanic) discovered that the vanity light on the sun visor was coming on and staying on! It's not easily noticed. After the light was disconnected, the problem went away. I too had mechanics use test equipment and was told "we found nothing wrong". These days it seems mechanics can't fix anything unless test equipment tells them what's wrong. I sure wish I could find a real mechanic. I'm posting this because I looked for a solution on the Internet and found people were not getting help from dealers and they were also adding equipment in order to keep their batteries from going dead. I hope this post helps somebody save a few bucks. |
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I have a 2007 Yukon (purchased 9/06) with factory installed remote start. Until recently the car would respond to the keyfob from about 100 ft. Now it will only respond when you are within 5 ft of the car. This happens with both keyfobs. I have replaced the keyfob battery (which the manual says should last 4 years) but have gotten no improvement. This kind of makes having remote start useless if I have to go out in the cold to make it work. Any ideas?
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Replying to: sffullmoon (Jan 15, 2008 3:15 pm) |
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Replying to: sffullmoon (Jan 15, 2008 3:15 pm) |
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The Keyless Entry feature on my 2007 Yukon XL has quit working correctly. I've changed to the spare keyfob and made sure that the DIC was programmed to original factory settings. Neither tactic helped. The entrance door must be opened manually......but once inside, the keyfob will actuate the Keyless Entry system (it'll unlock or lock the doors). When I park the Yukon, the Keyfob will lock the doors as I leave......but will fail to unlock the doors if I'm gone for more than a minute or two. In other words, the system fails if I don't use the Keyfob for a minute or two. So long as I actuate the Keyfob every 15-seconds, it'll keep on working. Anybody got ideas?
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Anyone have problems with those plastic covers that are used to cover the bottom of the seat frames? Ours all seem to be coming off. 1)We have one that covers the floor frame of the seat on the center row (between the seat that folds down behind the passenger side) and the center seat. It kept coming loose and we took it out. Now my kids catch their feet on the exposed bolts. 2) There's a large plastic cover that was on the floor below the seat, (behind the driver) that my kids tripped over everytime they got in and out of the car. The cover looks like it was meant to cover the seat floor bolts. Anyway, now it's thrown in the back of the car with all the other plastic covers that are coming off. 3)I had one under my driver seat that came loose, and would get stuck whenever I moved the seat forward/reverse.. i finally took that out too. Anyone else have this problem?? |
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