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GMC Yukon Small Problems and Aggravations

69 messages,  Last post on Jan 19, 2009 at 6:37 AM

You are in the GMC Yukon Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? GMC Yukon Denali, GMC Yukon XL, SUV


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#26 of 69
Hello I bought a 2003 by jumms
Nov 03, 2007 (8:13 pm)
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Denali. It came with xm radio Navigation system, but the cd did not come with it. Is there a way for me to get the for cheaper than what I would have to pay from the dealership?
 
Thanks,
Maurice
#27 of 69
Re: Hello I bought a 2003 [jumms] by brewboy
Nov 04, 2007 (7:48 pm)
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Replying to: jumms (Nov 03, 2007 8:13 pm)

Your best bet is on Ebay, I got mine for $90 after the dealership told me $600. Also you can check www.gmnavdisc.com or www.GMPartsDirect.com
#28 of 69
Re: 2007 GMC Yukon [smiller65] by agholden
Nov 09, 2007 (2:37 pm)
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Replying to: smiller65 (Oct 11, 2007 8:06 pm)

Steve - What can you tell me about the cable kit to run the batteries in parallel ?
             Where'd he find it? Homemade or pre-packaged? etc. Thanks.
 
I asked at the dealership's service department today about the problem - they agreed that battery use life is short, but the parts department said GM had no auxiliarly battery set-up or adaptor kit.
 
Arnie.
#29 of 69
Re: 2007 GMC Yukon [agholden] by smiller65
Nov 26, 2007 (8:59 pm)
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Replying to: agholden (Nov 09, 2007 2:37 pm)

Arnie,
Sorry to get back to you late on this one. The kits can be purchased online or can easily be fabbed up at most custom car shops. The kits online are usually sold for RV's since they pull a lot of amps. I looked online and had a hard time finding one. Here is how the wiring system went. A second battery is added on the right side where the flat plate is at. The bracket that holds down the stock battery can be made to fit here to hold a second battery which you can purchase the bracket at the dealer.(Even though a kit is not sold for the dual battery you can hold it down here) A red positive cable is run from the second batterys positive terminal to the primary battery (stock one) positive terminal. A black negetive cable is run from the secondary battery's negetive terminal to the primary battery's negetive terminal. The original primary negetive lead cable then is spliced and re-run to connect to the secondary batteries negetive terminal. This type of wiring system can be installed at some car audio stores because some stereos require a lot of power to run everything. Unless you are an electrician I would recommend taking it somewhere to make sure it is wired correctly.
 
Steve
#30 of 69
Re: 2007 GMC Yukon [smiller65] by agholden
Nov 26, 2007 (9:26 pm)
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Replying to: smiller65 (Nov 26, 2007 8:59 pm)

Steve - Thanks ! In the meantime I've checked around and found that there are a number of ways to solve the problem. Your approach sounds good. There are a number of isolator systems too, from good ol' JCWhitney to high-end systems with indicator lights and toggles. And then I could just pay the bucks and go to a gell-coil (Optima) battery.
Haven't decided what to do yet; right now I'm just making sure the lights are off and the key is out.
Thanks again.
 
Arnie
#31 of 69
2003 Yukon Ignition Switch Problem. by mlongoria501
Jan 10, 2008 (3:54 pm)
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I have an 03 Yukon and the ignition switch at times seems to be sticking.
When you first start the vehicle and you turn it over and then let the ignition key
turn back to the original position the starter is still turning over. Happens at
least twice a week. It will stop and then you can turn the key over again and the engine will start. Can anyone help me with this?
#32 of 69
2003 Yukon Denali flickering headlights Plus by 21ert11
Jan 13, 2008 (10:45 am)
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I hope I get some constructive feedback as the dealerships service is lacking in some areas. I do like this vehicle but the problems are, the headlights flicker usually when going around sweeping lefthand turns, 40 mph or more. This isn't more than 5 miles per hour over the speed limit so it's not like I'm pushing the vehicle beyond it's limits. They also flicker when going over rough roads, this isn't as noticable as the sweeping turn problem. I've had the truck in for service, they replaced one of the headlight brackets and it helped some. But the problem is still there. I had the service dude drive it one night and he didn't notice anything, not surprised. So here I am with a light issue that I really want to put behind me.
 Another issue is when driving up my driveway in icy conditions the headlights again flicker and also when I break and the antilock breaks kick in. I mentioned this to service and the response was, the vehicle is getting hit with a 30 amp surge and this is normal. Come on, I'm sure this is not normal and this would have been figured in as the vehicle was being constructed.
 Plus I'd like to know where I can get a replacement knob for the radio.
 Hope you can help.
#33 of 69
Re: 2003 Yukon Denali flickering headlights Plus [21ert11] by agholden
Jan 13, 2008 (8:12 pm)
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Replying to: 21ert11 (Jan 13, 2008 10:45 am)

I am a real expert on these things because I listen to "Car Talk" on the radio at least 6 times a year.
My guess is that you have a short that only comes into play when the vibration, or side force, on the vehicle brings something (probably a wire, probably with worn insulation), into contact with the frame or body (or maybe another wire).
I'd say follow the wire back from headlight (do both flicker, or just one side? on low beams or high?). A wiring diagram in the shop manual will help you find the color of the wire(s) you're looking for. Look for any bare wire. Then tape it.
--- Good luck. Electrical problems can drive you nuts! Arnie
#34 of 69
2000 GM Yukon battery keeps going dead by nuttydriver
Jan 13, 2008 (10:11 pm)
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Could start and drive the Yukon as long as it was driven every day. If I let it sit for a day or two, the battery would die. After trips to several mechanics and dealers and several batteries, I (not a mechanic) discovered that the vanity light on the sun visor was coming on and staying on! It's not easily noticed. After the light was disconnected, the problem went away. I too had mechanics use test equipment and was told "we found nothing wrong". These days it seems mechanics can't fix anything unless test equipment tells them what's wrong. I sure wish I could find a real mechanic.
 
I'm posting this because I looked for a solution on the Internet and found people were not getting help from dealers and they were also adding equipment in order to keep their batteries from going dead. I hope this post helps somebody save a few bucks.
#35 of 69
Keyless Entry / Remote Start by sffullmoon
Jan 15, 2008 (3:15 pm)
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I have a 2007 Yukon (purchased 9/06) with factory installed remote start. Until recently the car would respond to the keyfob from about 100 ft. Now it will only respond when you are within 5 ft of the car. This happens with both keyfobs. I have replaced the keyfob battery (which the manual says should last 4 years) but have gotten no improvement. This kind of makes having remote start useless if I have to go out in the cold to make it work.
 
Any ideas?

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