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SUVs GMC Yukon GMC Yukon Small Problems and Aggravations
69 messages, Last post on Jan 19, 2009 at 6:37 AM
You are in the GMC Yukon Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: pos07yukon (Jan 03, 2007 9:13 pm) I had the same exact problem and took it to the dealer and got the same answers. I fixed the problem though. I replaced the stock battery with a DieHard SUV battery that has twice the amps as the stock battery. I have yet to have this problem arise again. Also if you really want to beef up you battery problem, the 2007 yukon is set up to carry 2 batteries, an addition area is the flat metal battery plate on the drivers side. You can purchse a cable kit which is around $50 which runs the batteries in paralles. This space was put her because gmc has plans to place a diesel engine which require more amps to start. I havn't put this on mine but my neighbor is a fire chief with the same vehicle and was outfitted with the second battery. He has been able to run the stereo and all of the emergency lights for over 4 hours with the engine off. Hope this helps. Steve Miller
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My 2000 Yukon's ignition is locked and the security light is blinking. The steering wheel is locked and the key will not turn in the ignition. How do I get the security system to disengage so that I can turn the key in the ignition and start the car? This latest issue is the worst of a string of related problems. The wireless opener failed a long time ago. Then, I could not open any car doors with the key - except the hatch. When I opened the hatch, the alarm would sound but I could start the car with the key and it would turn off. The mechanic fixed the car so that the driver's side door would open with the key but the alarm would sound. This wasn't so bad since I could start the car with the key and disengage the alarm. Over the last month the horn failed. Now I have this problem. A quick response would really help, since I don't want to pay to have the car towed. Thanks. |
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Denali. It came with xm radio Navigation system, but the cd did not come with it. Is there a way for me to get the for cheaper than what I would have to pay from the dealership? Thanks, Maurice
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Replying to: jumms (Nov 03, 2007 8:13 pm) |
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Replying to: smiller65 (Oct 11, 2007 8:06 pm) Where'd he find it? Homemade or pre-packaged? etc. Thanks. I asked at the dealership's service department today about the problem - they agreed that battery use life is short, but the parts department said GM had no auxiliarly battery set-up or adaptor kit. Arnie.
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Replying to: agholden (Nov 09, 2007 2:37 pm) Sorry to get back to you late on this one. The kits can be purchased online or can easily be fabbed up at most custom car shops. The kits online are usually sold for RV's since they pull a lot of amps. I looked online and had a hard time finding one. Here is how the wiring system went. A second battery is added on the right side where the flat plate is at. The bracket that holds down the stock battery can be made to fit here to hold a second battery which you can purchase the bracket at the dealer.(Even though a kit is not sold for the dual battery you can hold it down here) A red positive cable is run from the second batterys positive terminal to the primary battery (stock one) positive terminal. A black negetive cable is run from the secondary battery's negetive terminal to the primary battery's negetive terminal. The original primary negetive lead cable then is spliced and re-run to connect to the secondary batteries negetive terminal. This type of wiring system can be installed at some car audio stores because some stereos require a lot of power to run everything. Unless you are an electrician I would recommend taking it somewhere to make sure it is wired correctly. Steve
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Replying to: smiller65 (Nov 26, 2007 8:59 pm) Haven't decided what to do yet; right now I'm just making sure the lights are off and the key is out. Thanks again. Arnie |
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I have an 03 Yukon and the ignition switch at times seems to be sticking. When you first start the vehicle and you turn it over and then let the ignition key turn back to the original position the starter is still turning over. Happens at least twice a week. It will stop and then you can turn the key over again and the engine will start. Can anyone help me with this? |
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I hope I get some constructive feedback as the dealerships service is lacking in some areas. I do like this vehicle but the problems are, the headlights flicker usually when going around sweeping lefthand turns, 40 mph or more. This isn't more than 5 miles per hour over the speed limit so it's not like I'm pushing the vehicle beyond it's limits. They also flicker when going over rough roads, this isn't as noticable as the sweeping turn problem. I've had the truck in for service, they replaced one of the headlight brackets and it helped some. But the problem is still there. I had the service dude drive it one night and he didn't notice anything, not surprised. So here I am with a light issue that I really want to put behind me. Another issue is when driving up my driveway in icy conditions the headlights again flicker and also when I break and the antilock breaks kick in. I mentioned this to service and the response was, the vehicle is getting hit with a 30 amp surge and this is normal. Come on, I'm sure this is not normal and this would have been figured in as the vehicle was being constructed. Plus I'd like to know where I can get a replacement knob for the radio. Hope you can help. 
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Replying to: 21ert11 (Jan 13, 2008 10:45 am) My guess is that you have a short that only comes into play when the vibration, or side force, on the vehicle brings something (probably a wire, probably with worn insulation), into contact with the frame or body (or maybe another wire). I'd say follow the wire back from headlight (do both flicker, or just one side? on low beams or high?). A wiring diagram in the shop manual will help you find the color of the wire(s) you're looking for. Look for any bare wire. Then tape it. --- Good luck. Electrical problems can drive you nuts! Arnie |
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