Last post on Oct 08, 2012 at 6:15 AM
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Oldsmobile Intrigue, Lights, Electrical, Sedan
#211 of 230 2000 oldsmobile intrigue cranks over with key out
Jun 26, 2011 (9:54 am)
I have a 2000 oldsmobile intrigue GL and after flushing the coolant system the engine just cranks itself over with the key out of the ignition. Cleaned fuse box with electrical cleaner and compressed air. Found that the leg on the crank relay that engages the relay is getting voltage from some were the test light is really dim so its some sort of stray voltage. Shorted it to a ground through a 5amp fuse and it will not blow the fuse. Removed Ignition switch and the stupid thing still cranks over. I think it may be the body or ignition module wich ever one has the srank circut ran through it. "Can anyone help or have you heard of this also which module has the crank circuit ran through it?" Also if you start the car after you shut it off there a 5 to 10 second period every time to the second before it starts cranking over. And if you put the key in the run position with the engine off it doesnt do it. Also the starter acts normal when the engine is running thats why I think its a control module.
#212 of 230 Re: 2000 oldsmobile intrigue cranks over with key out [johneastwood]
Jun 26, 2011 (1:23 pm)
..after flushing the coolant system the engine just cranks itself over with the key out of the ignition.
.... Also if you start the car after you shut it off there a 5 to 10 second period every time to the second before it starts cranking over. And if you put the key in the run position with the engine off it doesn't do it. Also the starter acts normal when the engine is running that's why I think its a control module.
I'm confused...does this mean you hook up the battery and it cranks over and the car starts, idles normally and the starter stops cranking. You then shut the car off and after 5 seconds it starts cranking again and repeats?
If you hadn't said you unplug the key switch I would say its the key switches.
Removed Ignition switch and the stupid thing still cranks over
Does this mean you unpluged the electrical connectors (there are two of them) or just removed the mechanical key tumblers/cylinder assembly?
The under hood relay contact controls the solenoid. The relay gets 12 volts through fuses and the key switch when turned and the relay is grounded thru the neutral park switch and a contact in the PCM.
If the grounding contact in the PCM is stuck then it would only crank if you had the key turned.
Normally, So key switch or the starter relay is stuck or shorted.
But something weird is going on
1. Did you get coolant all over the place with this coolant flush?
2. This problem only occurred after flushing the coolant?
3. Did you disconnect any wiring 'plugs or get coolant in/on wiring harness or fuse block???
#213 of 230 blinking headlights
Jul 30, 2011 (5:17 am)
#214 of 230 blinking headlights
Jul 30, 2011 (5:17 am)
i have a 02 intrigue i bought with 27000 miles on it in 2004. the lights blink at night .started intermitent now every mim or so ONLY when its dark. any ideas?
#215 of 230 Re: Ignition Switch [tiffer420]
Aug 31, 2011 (10:17 am)
I have though about this ignition switch issue for sometime. The general feeling is a lack of voltage, blamed on the ignition switch and this seems to help. I have another theory.
IS IT ACTUALLY THE BATTERY? The battery supplies the voltage. If the voltage is down and not as high as it should be, the computer will then definitely not be getting enough voltage.
I am a firm believer in Delco batteries. I have never had one go less than the warranty period and they usually go much longer. The Delco's will never corrode a cable. They just work forever. I always buy the biggest one that will fit into the tray. Low voltage is a killer to a starter and the rest of the electrical devices. Can this be as simple as installing a high quality battery that will supply the correct voltage? Sears Die Hards are my second choice. The auto parts store batteries, and various others are just junk, in my book.
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix and that has a Delco in it. It has no electrical issues. The 99 Olds Intrigue has these same issues as well as others. I will be replacing the off brand battery with a new Delco. Will see if this solves the issues with my Intrigue. After all, the engineers designed the electrical system with the optimum voltage to all systems. If that voltage drops, no wonder we are having problems.
Food for thought.
#216 of 230 Re: Ignition Switch [dieseldoctor]
Sep 23, 2011 (3:44 pm)
Well, I put in a new 6 year 700 amp Delco and am still having the same issues.
The heater control module will show 5 degrees in the summer sun. Drive it for awhile and the outside temp will start to rise. When it hits the correct outside temp, everything works, and fine. I found the outside air temp sensor ahead of the radiator. Pulled the plug, the wires are good and not corroded. Still gives the same problem.
The start issue is better with the new battery. When warm, you go to start it and it will, but then die. You need to shut off the key, start it again and give it a little gas. It then revs up and usually runs.
It appears the GM design team put a lemon together here. There are way to many electrical issues for a car this new.
#217 of 230 1998 olds Intrigue lighting issue
Oct 22, 2011 (9:36 pm)
I have a 1998 olds intrigue that the rear, insrument and side lights do not work. all of the fuses are good. when I check power at the fuse blck it is 11+ volts when I replace the fuse it drops to .5. I have created a jumper and everything works but when I put everything back to normal it stops working? any help would be appreciated.
#218 of 230 Olds Intrigue head light out
Nov 13, 2011 (5:15 pm)
Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001. Have a low beam headlight that is out. Replaced the head light and still out. Fuse is good (there is a fuse for the left and the right. Switched the two complete headlight units - same side still out even when connected to the other side headlight unit. Used a multi tester to isolate the correct two wires on the mulit wire connection at the back of the headlight unit. Compared the two sides on setting V~50; bad side had approximately half of the reading as the good side. Tried to find some sort of relay but looked in the fuse box under the hood and the one on the passenger side end of dash and found nothing but fuses. Any thoughts?
#219 of 230 Re: Olds Intrigue head light out [illinigar]
Nov 15, 2011 (11:40 pm)
Compared the two sides on setting V~50;
The squiggly line in front of the 50 tells me you have selected AC volts And you should be on v= 50 for DC. If this is an oversight on my part, then sorry.
Is it a digital meter and if so is there a DC or AC icon in the display?
Otherwise what are the voltages that you are reading and is it with the light switch stalk or are you covering up the daylight sensor on the dash?
The voltages that go to the lights are from the same 12 volt source, but through different fuses.
if you you the light switch the the switch connects the bulbs to ground if you are using the sensor then a relay controlled from The BCM, grounds the bulbs.
However since you say that switching the assembles does not move the problem then the problem isin't the assembly., bulbs or sockets.
Have you switched the fuses? They may look good but you can be tricked.
The wires to measure DC voltage at the back of the lamp assemblies are between the orange with black stripe and dark blue wire for the left lamp and between the orange with black stripe and the dark blue with white stripe on right lamp.
Unplug the assemblies
1. With the switch off you should get 12 to 13 volts from the orange black wire and ground/ frame/ engine/ negative battery terminal of car.
2.With the light switch on, you should measure 12 to 13 volts DC from the orange black wire and dark blue wires on each assembly plug
report back this info.
#220 of 230 Re: Olds Intrigue head light out [moonshadow]
Nov 16, 2011 (7:15 pm)
Thank you very much for your time and willingness to share your knowledge.
First, you are correct, I had the meter inadvertantly placed in the AC position. I worked with a friend who is more knowledgable than me about wiring and he corrected me (before I received your response). At that time, we checked voltages across several positions. I have switched the fuses and actually replaced them as well with no effect. Back to the voltages. We checked voltages across the fuse connections with the fuses removed. Both left and right showed 12 volts. We also got 12 volts when checking the hot side of the fuse to a different ground for both fuses - not sure that tells us anything. We then replaced the fuses and removed the connections at each of the low beam bulbs. The working side gave us a voltage of 12 across the two leads. The non-working side gave us a reading of 1 to 2 volts - consistantly. My friend surmized from that reading that I probably had a bad "relay" between the fuse and the headlight. I looked online for a "relay" for my car and found one. Knowing that there must be a relay between the fuse and the headlight, I started looking. No luck. The car has two fuse boxes mounted on the passenger side front fender near the battery. No light relay is shown in any of the schematics. I even removed the big fuse box and looked behind it - no visible relay. I then looked in the fuse box in the cabin of the car on the passenger end of the dash (door must be open to access). Again, no relay. I then removed the fiber insulation under each side of the front dash and again found no relay. I called a local parts store, they found potentially two different relays but had no clue where they would be located on the vehicle.
Now to your last set of questions. I checked the good light leads: switch off gave me 12 volts from orange wire to ground; switch on gave me 12 volts from orange to blue. Then checked the bad light leads: switch off gave me 12 volts from the orange wire to ground (much to my surprise); switch on gave me 0 volts from orange to blue. I knew those were the proper wires on the connector cause I did some trouble shooting using the continuity setting (a few days ago) between the leads to the light bulb and the leads at the connector. Your color combinations confirmed those leads with my thoughts.
So, I was surprised to see 12 volts from the hot connector (orange/black wire) to a ground. What are your thoughts? Again, I appreciate your help so much.