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Oldsmobile Intrigue Electrical / Lighting Problems

185 messages,  Last post on Sep 01, 2009 at 5:59 PM

You are in the Oldsmobile Intrigue Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Oldsmobile Intrigue, Lights, Electrical, Sedan


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#116 of 185
Re: Electrical issue or emissions control problem? [dtownfb] by mtram
Nov 02, 2007 (9:50 am)
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Replying to: dtownfb (Nov 02, 2007 9:32 am)

I have taken it to AutoZone twice and no codes show up. I'll take it again.
 
Jmeasell....what's your thought?
#117 of 185
Re: Headlight/turnsignal switch [flyerman] by mayberry
Nov 07, 2007 (1:26 pm)
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Replying to: flyerman (Oct 28, 2007 3:36 pm)

the plastic that the light lever runs into splits apart. two screws on the bottom. make sure the tilt is all the way down. it can be a little tricky to get the front screw off of the switch itself. but you don't have to do anything major.
#118 of 185
Intrigue DRLs by racer__x_9
Nov 14, 2007 (10:13 am)
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My headlights no longer come on automatically when it gets dark. The dash lights dim, so I assume the light sensor on top of the dash is working. The headlights work with the headlamp switch.
 
Are the DRLs (The 2 yellow turn signal lights in front) supposed to go off when the headlights are turned on? My DRLs are always on with or without the headlights. When I see other Intrigues driving at night the yellow DRLs are on as well as the headlights.
 
Anyone else ever have this issue?
 
Thanks
#119 of 185
Re: Intrigue DRLs [racer__x_9] by bold_1
Nov 14, 2007 (12:43 pm)
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Replying to: racer__x_9 (Nov 14, 2007 10:13 am)

The DRLs are bright when the headlights are off and they dim when the headlights are on.
#120 of 185
Re: Intrigue DRLs [racer__x_9] by moonshadow
Nov 14, 2007 (10:03 pm)
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Replying to: racer__x_9 (Nov 14, 2007 10:13 am)

Headlamp relay most likely defective, or wiring to and fro.
Sometimes taping it with the butt end of a screwdriver can get them to work. Contacts can be cleaned if you have patience to disassemble it. Or try replacing it with another relay of same kind/part# (one that's not real important).
 
The bcm controls the relay with reference from the daylight senor and bypasses the manual control stick.
 cheers
#121 of 185
DRLs by racer__x_9
Nov 15, 2007 (8:10 am)
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Moonshadow - Thanks. Is the headlamp relay the same as the DRL control module, or something different? If diff where is it?
 
Thanks,
#122 of 185
Re: DRLs [racer__x_9] by moonshadow
Nov 15, 2007 (6:18 pm)
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Replying to: racer__x_9 (Nov 15, 2007 8:10 am)

The headlamp relay is most probably in the power distribution box under the hood, look on the under side of the black cover for a listing and location. If not there, then the manual is your friend to show the location.
#123 of 185
Re: electrical problem solved!!! [ron1967] by gfraser
Nov 19, 2007 (4:10 pm)
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Replying to: ron1967 (Aug 11, 2007 2:02 pm)

i have the same symptoms and i took it to a local electrical specialist
here in sarnia ontario canada.i won't say who but everyone here will know,it's a fairly small city.i told them to check the wiring as you said and they said it is all fine.when i took it there this morning i told them the alternator was dead.later this afternoon they called me and said low and behold your alt.is no good! that will be $136.00 please for the quote to fix it. the repair bill for the alternator alone would have been $900.00could they tell me what caused it? NO! did they check the wiring as i asked?they didn't think that was the problem.in other words NO! i am going to put a used alternator on it and try to track it
down.this is the second one to fry in 18 months.talk about pissed off!
when i disconnect the battery and reconnect it everything is fine.all the power the engine is supposed to have is there as where it was sluggish to the point of barely running.it smells like wires burning aswell.no mention of this from the pro's either.the battery tests low and the alt is supposed to be dead,so why does it start and run fine after i disconnect and reconnect the battery? hope i get it figured out soon. any suggestions that doesn't involve a gas can and a match.
thanks in advance
#124 of 185
Re: electrical problem solved!!! [gfraser] by moonshadow
Nov 20, 2007 (6:48 am)
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Replying to: gfraser (Nov 19, 2007 4:10 pm)

so why does it start and run fine after i disconnect and reconnect the battery?
 
If this is all you did then you should check for corrosion in the boots at the battery post. very common on GM's.
 
Disconnect both posts, pry out the center bolt that connects connector to battery and then slide off red and black boots. Get a wire brush in there and clean connector and stud down to bare metal. Sometimes it is caked on there and you will need a file and pick to hack away at the crust. When shiny metal is visible your done. Then check connector for burning, melting etc.
Do not be fooled, i have seen 1/8" build up, the little teeth were buried and the crude looks just the like metal connector.
Slide boot back on and then replace the center bolt. You may have issues getting the stud back in, but using a small screwdriver start on one side, prying the boot up over the stud rim and then work your way around
 
cheers good luck
#125 of 185
Re: electrical problem solved!!! [moonshadow] by gfraser
Nov 20, 2007 (7:41 am)
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Replying to: moonshadow (Nov 20, 2007 6:48 am)

thanks, but it's all good in that respect.gm dealer told me that it could also be the ignition switch believe it or not.says next time it happens to tap the ignition switch .i guess there having a few cars come back with that problem.

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