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Oldsmobile Intrigue Problem Codes/TSBs

48 messages, Last post on Oct 10, 2009 at 8:42 AM
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I'm driving on I-78 in NJ on Saturday and I feel a "bump" under the hood then the "Service Engine Soon" light comes on. Of course bad things come to mind since it is Christmas, I don't get paid for another two weeks, and oh yeah, I am 150 miles from home and it is 11:00 at night. Since the car was driving "normal" I kept going until i needed gas. I read up on the "Service Engine Soon" in my manual and it is the equivalent of the "Check Engine" light in many cars. Knowing that the light ws not flashing was a relief. I continued down the road and the light went off. Great! About 10 miles down the road, I feel that "bump" under the hood and the light comes back on. Go figure. All is fine the rest of the drive. The next afternoon I go to Advance Auto parts (they have the coolest tools to play with) and they do a free diagnostic check. The code P0101 came up which referes ot the "mass Air Flow (MAF)" or the "volume air flow (VAF)". They thougth I needed a new mass air flow sensor. given the code P0101, will replacing the mass air flow sensor solve my "Service Engine Soon" problem? I did notice my gas mileage was down about 2-3 mpg. Thanks
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Replying to: dtownfb (Dec 12, 2005 10:59 am) Regards, Mark
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Replying to: gmdrone1 (Dec 13, 2005 12:33 am) A code reader tells you what the ECM "sees", not always what is wrong. A code is merely a guide and not gospel. The MAF sensor may be bad, however you must first verify(unless you have lots of money to spend) a un-corroded electrical connection and the sensor. It is inline from the air box to the intake throttle. Verify that there are no leaks in the hose or at the air box or throttle. How's the air filter?. The MAF measures air going into the intake manifold. Any un-metered air (through a crack, PCV valve hoses etc etc) will create problems for the ECM not being able to figure out what the MAF is telling it. The bang may be the pcm dropping the car into default/limp mode as it cannot figure out what the sensors are telling it. (Or that the signal from the MAF disappears, for whatever reason)bad sensor? bad wiring? bad air flow? Also check for vacuum leaks at the MAP sensor. Faulty info from this guy can set a MAF code. This sensor monitors air pressure/elevation. Higher teh elevation, less oxygen. The ecm needs to know this and correlates all of the data from several sensors. The sensor is a fine tiny delicate piece of wire that can be contaminated if oil gets to it, sometimes a cleaner can be sprayed on it if your careful, although a dealer will probably never do this. You can change the sensor if you like, however, like all codes, there can be many reasons why they are set. Without properly diagnosing the output from the sensor relative to input provided to it, you are effectively guessing. reseting the ECM is done by erasing the ecm memory( ie erasing the code/freezeframe data stored in memory. Disconnecting the battery will not erase codes on OBD2 cars. post 1996. The code is "reset" by erasing the codes with a reader/scanner or by eliminating the cause of the error and going through the appropriate drive, start, or warm up cycles which is dependent on the code. What engine are you running? cheers.
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Replying to: moonshadow (Dec 13, 2005 9:58 am) We have Mitchell electronic manual at work, and it says to check for other things - Skewed or stuck Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Sticking throttle plate or deposits on plate or bore TPS connection short or poor connection Poor connection at PCM or sensor Misrouted or damaged wire harness Plugged intake duct or dirty air filter Water entering intake system and contaminating MAF I wish I would have checked this before spending the money.
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Replying to: moonshadow (Dec 13, 2005 9:58 am) It has been extremely cold here (high of only 25 today, low of 0 last night). I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to look under the hood and get dirty. I'll check the hoses and air filter and some of the wiring. I don't feel like throwing money for a MAF when the air filter is dirty. Thanks Moonshadow. |
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Replying to: blue_2000 (Dec 13, 2005 1:28 pm)
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Replying to: dtownfb (Jan 05, 2006 6:53 am) As for checking other things - It is probably a good idea to check the throttle plate and throttle body for carbon build-up. Take off the air intake tube, and check for black build-up. Manually turn the throttle plate and look inside. Use carb or choke cleaner and a rag to clean it up. Make sure the air intake tubes are both tight, too. To really check the TPS, you would probably need a mult-meter and need to know what the voltages are supposed to be at each pin on the connector. You might find that in a service manual. Hope this helps some.
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Replying to: blue_2000 (Jan 19, 2006 9:35 am) Mine had been off for a while and reared it's head this week. It was about 25-30 minutes into a 2 hour return trip and the light came back on. Stayed on for a couple of days and then went off again. My gas mileage is back up to 26-27 mpg (that's 95% highway at 75mph). I bet I could get to 29 or 30 if I slowed down a bit. Thanks blue
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Replying to: dtownfb (Jan 20, 2006 10:21 am)
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Replying to: kslong (Feb 01, 2006 8:27 am)
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