Last post on Jul 28, 2010 at 2:43 PM
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Honda Accord, Sedan
#1 of 93 Honda Accord 2006 I4- Hard acceleration up to 5-6000rpm-Bad for Engine?
Nov 03, 2006 (9:00 am)
I bought my Accord 11 months ago and has put 7000 miles on it. It's auto transmission. I properly broke in the engine and had my 1st oil change at 4500 miles.
In local and on highway, I tend to accelerate hard and rev the engine up to 5000-6000rpm frequently for passing. I know the CPU will automatically up-shift the gears on the auto transmission if the engine rev to 6000-6500rpm redline.
Will frequent and hard acceleration 'hurt' the engine? I think VTEC engines 'like' high rpm. On my Accord, the 'sweep spot' for torque is between 2800-4000 rpm I think.
What's your experience and suggestion? Thanks.
#2 of 93 Re: Honda Accord 2006 I4- Hard acceleration up to 5-6000rpm-Bad for Engine? [bf109ace]
Nov 04, 2006 (5:13 am)
Honda engines are made to run hard. But any engine will wear faster at 6000rpm than it will at 3000rpm. If every time the accelerator pedal goes down, it hits the floor, the engine, and maybe transmission will have a shorter life span. I'm not saying it will break or blow up, just not last quite as long. Of course if it shortens the life span from say 200k miles, down to 170k miles it may not mean anything to you.
#4 of 93 Re: Honda Accord 2006 I4- Hard acceleration up to 5-6000rpm-Bad for Engine? [ray_h1]
Nov 04, 2006 (9:09 am)
What's 'transaxle fluid' change? Are you talking about 'transmission fluid' change? If so, what's the regular interval for the change? 50,000 miles?
So you suggest for 'severe driving' with high rpm, the fluid change interval should be 30,000 miles instead of 50k or 60k. Please clarify. Thanks.
#5 of 93 Re: Honda Accord 2006 I4- Hard acceleration up to 5-6000rpm-Bad for Engine? [bf109ace]
Nov 04, 2006 (10:30 am)
I would change it at 30k miles (the regular interval for severe is 60k, I think).
You should check the fluid every month (level and condition) to see if it smells, or looks burnt. You should check the fluid right after driving. That's when everything is still floating around in the fluid (before it settles back in the pan).
#7 of 93 Typical rpm range for 2006 Accord I-4
Nov 08, 2006 (7:27 pm)
I bought my Accord EX I-4 recently. Was wondering what's the typical/ optimal rpm range for normal driving?
What rpm range is this engine ideally tuned for?
What would be the idling rpm and cruising rpm to expect ?
What rpm ranges should I expect to look for when accelerating?
Any thoughts are appreciated..
#8 of 93 Re: Typical rpm range for 2006 Accord I-4 [octorm]
Nov 08, 2006 (8:50 pm)
Well, in modest acceleration, I never top 3,000 RPM.
When merging, I sometimes hit 4,000 RPM if the ramp is short.
Idle, around 700 RPM.
Cruising in top gear (5th), you'll turn 1,000 RPM per 30 MPH, or speeds such as:
45 MPH/1,500 RPM
60 MPH/2,000 RPM
75 MPH/2,500 RPM
The engine is tuned to rev freely and smoothly (after 600 mile break-in), but if you keep your foot out of it, you'll get great economy (i've gotten 39.9 MPG on a trip before).
#9 of 93 removing the crankshaft pulley on my 1993 Accord Ex
Dec 15, 2006 (9:32 am)
here is my problem. my 1993 Accord EX is a manual trans and I need to tighten the timing belt. How do I remove the pulley where the crankshaft is? I have been trying to figure it out for 3 days already. I really hate having to walk everywhere. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
#10 of 93 Re: removing the crankshaft pulley on my 1993 Accord Ex [jedi_master98]
Dec 15, 2006 (3:49 pm)
Timing belts are kept taught by a simple spring-loaded or fancier oil pressure modulated hydraulic autotensioner (which type varies with the engine model) behind the engine front cover. If your timing belt is loose, that's an indication the cogged belt has stretched, shed some cogs, or the autotensioner is shot. (or any combination of all of the above) To access the timing belt, you're right - the front cover has to come off, and to achieve that, you have to remove the crankshaft front pulley. A VERY tight bolt has to removed from the front of the crankshaft. Presuming you you achieve that Herculean task (overcoming more than 100 lb.-ft. of torque is involved), you'll still need a crankshaft pulley puller to finally "pop" the crankshaft pulley loose enough to remove. (You presumed undertaking this repair was going to be easy? Really?) Since you referenced a manual transaxle, you obviously have the 4-cyl motor. Good news - there's only one camshaft involved. Keep in mind though that any oversights or mistakes in retiming the engine subsequent to replacing the timing belt can and will destroy the engine by breaking pistons and/or bending or breaking valves upon 1st re-start attempt. (There are rarely second chances with "interference" type engines.) If you aren't well versed in camshaft timing repairs on overhead camshaft engines and if you don't have a detailed shop manual (Honda's is put out by Helm, but Chilton and Haynes appropriate year manuals for Honda cars cover the techniques, too.), this might be a job better left to someone possessing the proper skills and access to the proper tools. An independent shop would probably deal with the belt for ~$350.00, more or less. If inspection reveals oil-related damage to the belt, then the repair costs ramp up dramatically to cover the cost and labor for whatever seal replacements may be necessary to prevent the same thing happening to the replacement timing belt. If the autotensioner has to be replaced, add its cost in. If you're intent on tackling the job yourself, you have my best wishes for good luck and a successful outcome.