Last post on Jul 30, 2011 at 12:22 PM
You are in the Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis
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Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis, Engine, Oil, Sedan
#65 of 113 loose steering wheel
Sep 12, 2007 (3:11 pm)
my 93 crown vic has a loose steering wheel its the actual steering wheel on inside of car, its just kinda wiggly and i know there is a way to tighten it up could someone explain the process to me? thanks
#66 of 113 Re: loose steering wheel [gotdust]
Jan 06, 2008 (12:30 am)
I have had the same problem with my 2004 grand marquis.It has 35,000 miles.I have tried installing washers on mounting bolts.Removing steering wheel and welding beads on top and bottom of shaft hole on steering wheel.neither helped fix problem.it became so bad i wouldn't drive the vehical.I removed the steering column and had my local dealer rebuild it. cost me about $200 which wasnt too bad.The coulmn was tight when i reinstalled it.Although it is starting to work loose again. I was hopeing ford would have a TSB, or I would find something on the internet on how to fix it.
#68 of 113 Plug wires on 99 Grand Marquis
Jan 16, 2008 (7:50 am)
Just bought a 99 Grand Marquis. I am not terribly familiar with the Ford 4.6 and need to ask a dumb question: How do I get to the plug wires on this darn car?
#69 of 113 Re: Plug wires on 99 Grand Marquis [thumper8]
Jan 22, 2008 (6:35 pm)
Your engine has an ignition coil setting on top of each sparkplug. The plug wires are small 12 volt wires that should last the life of the vehicle.
#70 of 113 2004 crown victoria
Jan 24, 2008 (6:44 pm)
where is the fuel pump inertia switch located. 2004 crown victoria 4.6 engine.
#71 of 113 99 GM hard start / misfire
Mar 23, 2008 (10:19 am)
i bought a 99 merc GM with 59k last fall. since the beginning every once in a while it would have trouble starting. starter was fine ,it would sound weak upon starting like the gas isnt getting in there properly. after a few months on several occasions it would not wanna start, i would have to turn the key a second time and hold it for it to finally start. i heard it might be the fuel pressure regulator but since the prob was intermitten, and she always started, i kept putting it off. today i jump in and take off and i feel it slightly bucking and hesitating and after about 15 minutes the check engine light came on. i turned around and headed for autozone to get a read on the code and they tell me its a misfire. in my haste i didnt realize to ask the guy which cylinder was giveing ther misfire code, if any at all. is it possible for it to give a misfire code without specifying a cylinder and if so could that be related to the hard start issue i have been experiencing? where should i start first? paying back the irs has left me with little in the bank so im tryin to figure out the smartest and most economical way to go about this so any help would be greatly appreciated... thank you
oh btw, she has almost 63 k on her now and last month i changed the oil/filter, fuel filter & air filter, if that helps at all
#72 of 113 Re: 99 GM hard start / misfire [mr_merc99]
Mar 23, 2008 (8:04 pm)
Assuming the plug wires are original and almost 10 years old, bite the bullet and replace ALL of them. They are like shoe laces. Miles on them is not as detrimental as age. The plugs should last another 40K.
#73 of 113 92 Grand Marquis - oil plan replacement
Aug 24, 2008 (8:56 pm)
Good evening folks,
I have a 92 MGM that has a rotted oil pan, and requires replacement to remain operational. I know to perform this replacement, we will need to lift the motor. Is there a set of step by step instructions for this replacement available online? I have a new oil pan and gasket, and big engine hoist, and we took the hood off tonight, so we are ready to go. I expect we need to drop the exhaust, disconnect all coolant lines, and scads of other items. Having some detailed instructions would be great though, and we do not have a service manual. Can anyone point me in the direction of an online resource?
#74 of 113 Re: 92 Grand Marquis - oil plan replacement [maytag87]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Aug 25, 2008 (7:48 am)
1. Disconnect ground and positive battery cables.
2. Remove air inlet tube and drain cooling system. Remove cooling fan and shroud.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF. Disconnect fuel lines.
4. Remove upper radiator hose, wiper module and support bracket.
5. Discharge A/C system, then disconnect A/C compressor outlet hose. Remove bolt securing hose assembly to RH coil bracket.
6. Remove engine electrical harness 42-pin connector from bracket on brake vacuum booster.
7. Disconnect engine electrical connector, then disconnect transmission harness electrical connector.
8. Disconnect throttle valve cable at throttle body.
9. Disconnect heater outlet hose.
10. Remove RH cylinder head ground strap attaching nut, then remove upper stud and lower bolt securing heater hose to cylinder head.
11. Remove blower motor resistor, then the RH engine mount to lower engine bracket attaching bolt.
12. Disconnect exhaust system from manifolds.
13. Lower exhaust and secure to crossmember with wire.
14. Position a suitable jack and block of wood below oil pan, rearward of drain plug.
15. Raise engine approximately four inches, then insert two wood blocks, approximately 2.5-2.75 inches thick, under each engine mount.
16. Lower engine onto wood blocks and remove jack from below oil pan.
17. Loosen 16 retaining bolts and remove oil pan. It may be necessary to loosen, without removing, the two nuts on rear transmission mount and raise extension housing of transmission slightly to remove oil pan.
18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.