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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis General Maintenance

102 messages,  Last post on Oct 10, 2009 at 5:59 PM

You are in the Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis, Engine, Oil, Sedan


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#21 of 102
Re: Some physics for ya'll... [turbo301] by bobw3
May 11, 2006 (6:57 am)
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Replying to: turbo301 (May 10, 2006 7:47 pm)

I guess I'll stop because my comments are becoming "circular" but when you say, "the less fast the hub has to turn in order to maintain a given speed, and thus the less fast the engine has to turn, thereby saving fuel." but the transmission is in between the tires and engine, so you'll still need more power in the engine to maintain the higher speed, regardless of whether or not the higher speed
 
Using your CD example, if you put your hand on the edge of the CD when it's spinning (like the tires on the road), it's easy to stop the CD from moving, as compared to touching the inner wheel moving. So for a given CD motor, you can stop it easier on the edge then close to the center. To make it so when you pressed against the edge of the CD, the CD kept moving, you'd need a more powerful motor, which is the same as needing more power coming from an engine, which needs more gas to get that power.
 
Anyway, I'm probably wrong.
#22 of 102
Re: Some physics for ya'll... [bobw3] by turbo301
May 11, 2006 (7:27 pm)
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Replying to: bobw3 (May 11, 2006 6:57 am)

You can stop a CD by the edge better than in the middle because the torque you're applying is larger: torque is the product of the force times the radius, so the further out you grab, the higher the torque you apply (that's why torque wrenches have such long handles).
 
However, in the case of a car, remember that it takes almost no power to keep a car moving - maybe only 15 hp or so to maintain a given highway speed. This is how the whole V8-6-4, "Multi Displacement System", etc. are able to be so effective at saving fuel. For us Panther folks who run on all 8, all the time, there are gobs of excess power that our motors make at highway speed that is virtually useless; thus, even though it may take more energy to get the outer radius of large tires spinning against the friction of the road, the engine doesn't need to spin any higher to transfer its already-excess power to the wheels. I think that that makes sense, anyway . My background is electrical engineering, so it's been a while since I've used any mechanical stuff!
#23 of 102
Back engineered 5w-20 by fscarano
May 20, 2006 (9:23 am)
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Any other G/M or C/V owners using the Back engineered 5w-20? I have read on other forums where it causes premature engine wear. And Ford is only using it to meet the CAFÉ standard. I started using it 2 months ago in my 2000 G/M no problems yet.
#24 of 102
Choice of oils by joe110
May 28, 2006 (4:49 am)
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I dont want to sound lazy but can someone give me their input on using synth 5W20? I am currently using it but I was always a castrol 10W30 and 40 person. Thicker oil in the summer.
#25 of 102
1994 Grand Marquis Eating Oil by ab5zn
May 30, 2006 (9:01 pm)
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I have a 1994 Mercury Grand Marquis with about 119,000 miles on the odometer. I discovered about a week ago when I checked my oil level because the oil light came on that my oil level was quite low. It took three quarts to bring it up to the full line on the dipstick. Yesterday I added about three more quarts.
 
Not being a mechanic myself, I always thought that if a car was using oil, you would see it and smell it. Not so in this case. What could be wrong to cause the car to start using that much oil with no symptoms? How serious/expensive could it be?
 
Thanks!
Dave
#26 of 102
Re: 1994 Grand Marquis Eating Oil [ab5zn] by p100
May 31, 2006 (12:13 pm)
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Replying to: ab5zn (May 30, 2006 9:01 pm)

The most obvious sign of a car using oil is a puff of white smoke when a car is first started after sitting shut off for a while. In this case, worn valve seals permit seepage of oil into the cylinders.
 
In worse cases, a cloud of obnoxious white smoke appears whenever one accelerates. Real oil burning vehicles are therefore easy to spot.
#27 of 102
drain or flush the transmission by bruneau1
Jun 23, 2006 (8:40 am)
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The CV and GM recommend a transmission service at 30,000 miles. I have read all the pros and cons of the usual drain or the power flush. What do most of you do? i think it is important to drop the pan and some say the flush can cause problems.
#28 of 102
Re: drain or flush the transmission [bruneau1] by euphonium
Jun 23, 2006 (9:32 am)
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Replying to: bruneau1 (Jun 23, 2006 8:40 am)

In 90k miles the tranny oil has been changed twice. When it starts to shudder again, it'll be changed again. The first change used Mercon V Synthetic. The last change used non synthetic, a lot more economical, and can't tell the difference. This is regarding our 95 T Bird with 4.6 and AOD tranny.
 
The 94 Town Car has 127,000 miles and is still going on it's 2nd change.
 
Just be sure to drain the torque converter too. Drop the pan? Wouldn't hurt if high mileage.
#29 of 102
Re: drain or flush the transmission [bruneau1] by agellius3
Jul 11, 2006 (12:04 pm)
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Replying to: bruneau1 (Jun 23, 2006 8:40 am)

Are you sure it's Ford who is recommending the tranny flush, or was it a dealer? Because I had a dealer tell me I needed to do it, but I could not find any such requirement in the manual. I have an 03 GM.
#30 of 102
I changed my by marsha7
Jun 24, 2006 (2:41 pm)
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tranny fluid in my 2004 CV at 30,000 miles, complete flush, changed to synthetic tranny fluid, dropped pan and changed tork converter...
 
While I honestly did not see any improvement in tranny performance, I do not expect to, any more than chganging engine oil shows noticeable improvement...I just do it for routine maintenance, hoping that the tranny will shower me with $150K miles of service or more...
 
A clean tranny is a happy tranny...

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