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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

210 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 10:37 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Astro, Fuel System, Van


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Messages Page 14 of 22

#128 of 210 1999 Chevy Astro Van Won't Start by keico

Jan 29, 2009 (3:48 pm)

Ok here is what I have.
 
1999 Chevy Astro Van 4.3L
 
When I purchased this vehicle 1 year ago it always started up on the first crank. Didn't make a difference whether it was cold or hot.
 
I noticed that once this winter started (I live in Florida) and the weather was a little colder. It started to become just a little hard to start.
 
It would take two cranks, then three, four.
 
Finally i hit it with some car cleaner and it fired up.
 
I have been doing this for quite some time. Hit it with some carb cleaner and it fires up.
 
Note once it is started it runs great. No hesitation, vibration, nothing it runs great.
 
Now I have read that you need at least 65 PSI fuel pressure for this van to start, and no I have not run a fuel pressure test yet. ( I will definitely do this weekend).
 
I guess i should also mention that whether the engine is cold or hot i still have to hit it with some carb cleaner.
 
I also read that it could be the ECT sensor (coolant temp sensor). It said that if this sensor does not tell the ECM the engine is cold it won't pulse the injectors to start.
 
Now as of late I have had to give it more than normal squirt of carb cleaner to get it going.
 
Now my question is what do you think it could be.
 
Something inside me just can't believe it is the fuel pump. I say this because once it starts it runs great.
 
Either way I am not sure what it is.
 
Also I need some advice on changing the fuel filter.
 
In anticipation of having to do some work I did purchase a fuel filter and a rebuild kit for the fuel pump. (Much cheaper than buying a new fuel pump from Advance auto or Autozone)
 
While I started to change the fuel filter I noticed that the fuel lines were bolted into the fuel filter very tight.
 
So tight it seems to me that I would break the fuel line before it gave.
 
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem also. I really want to change this filter but don't want to damage the fuel line trying to get the old filter out.
 
Anyway I hope someone can really help me.

#129 of 210 Re: 1999 Chevy Astro Van Won't Start [keico] by Steve_01

Jan 30, 2009 (9:39 am)

Replying to: keico (Jan 29, 2009 3:48 pm)
My 2 cents...
I have a 97 Astro. My fuel pressure was around 57 or so while the engine was running. It would drop off to zero immediately after turning off the key. According to the book, the fuel pressure should drop off slowly after turning off the ignition. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator. I guess I had a 50/50 shot. That seemed to take care of both the fuel pressure, now 63 PSI, and the pressure dropping off slowly when shutting off the ignition. The pressure dropping immediately doesn't create any issues as far as engine starting or performance. I think more than anything it's an indication that there's an issue with the fuel system. As far as replacing the fuel filter, are you using two wrenches to loosen the nut? You should have one wrench on the fuel filter nut, and one on the line nut. Hold the fuel filter nut in place while loosening the line nut. Make sure you relieve the fuel pressure before you do this or be ready for a bit of a high pressure blast of fuel when the nut cracks loose. One more thing, Autozone has a tool rental program that allows you to basically purchase the tool and return it for a full refund within 90 days. I'm "renting' a code reader at the moment. Even if you don't have any codes, if you rent one of the better code readers you will be able to see the results of the output of most of the engine sensors including the O2 sensors. It might be worth a shot. Steve

#130 of 210 Re: 1999 Chevy Astro Van Won't Start [keico] by 1shadetree

Jan 31, 2009 (12:02 am)

Replying to: keico (Jan 29, 2009 3:48 pm)
How many miles do you have on it? I'd be curious to know what the results after you check the fuel pressure. If it checks fine, I agree w/ Kieco as far as changing the regulator, much cheaper and it has to be easier.

#131 of 210 chevy astro 1993 tbi z motor won't run by blackpacific1

Feb 07, 2009 (7:04 pm)

I've been chasing this phantom for 4 months now. My Astro will start, run for a few seconds, then die. I finally got a TBI fuel tester, hooked it up to the left line right before the throttle body, and did not get any measurable pressure reading. This could be good news? My next step is to hook it up where the manual says to, which is right before the fuel filter. If I get good pressure there, then I know my tester is working, and that there is a problem between the fuel filter and the throttle body (blocked line?). If the pressure is not good before the filter, then I will know it's time to drop the tank. A few months back I had a dealer install a new OEM pump which I provided. That replacement did not solve the problem. Stay tuned.

#132 of 210 Re: chevy astro 1993 tbi z motor won't run [blackpacific1] by Steve_01

Feb 08, 2009 (2:41 pm)

Replying to: blackpacific1 (Feb 07, 2009 7:04 pm)
Hmmm. I don't know how the fuel pressure regulator is set up in the 93 TBI or if it even has one but... if it does have a fuel pressure regulator (probably does), and it is malfunctioning, you could get the same low or no pressure reading. It might be worth blocking the fuel return line if you get low/no pressure before the filter just to make sure the fuel is not possibly recirculating back into the fuel tank without any resistance from the fuel pressure regulator. Just a thought. It might save you the trouble of dropping the tank. Unless the regulator is actually built into the fuel pump assembly.

#133 of 210 96 safari 4.3 vortec, won't start when it's humid by bda54

Feb 09, 2009 (2:57 pm)

My 96 safari 4.3 vortec won't start when the temps get into the 20's or higher temps and it is humid. It will crank but then hesitate about every 3-4 seconds and then repeat this behavior, but will not start. If I hold down the accelerator, it will not do the hesitation but will backfire sometimes. It's almost like the distributor cap is wet inside and shorting accross to misfire on the wrong cylinder sometimes, when I try to start it. It's 36 degrees today and raining and I tried to start it and the same thing. Any suggestions. I don't want to start blindly replacing parts as I guess at the fix. It has about 135M miles on it.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!

#134 of 210 Re: 96 safari 4.3 vortec, won't start when it's humid [bda54] by dakota4x4

Feb 09, 2009 (7:31 pm)

Replying to: bda54 (Feb 09, 2009 2:57 pm)
I have had alot of these 4.3 problems frustrating I know until I fiquired out the most common problem with this engine. It seems to be always the cap and rotor. no matter if its only 3 months old. I think it has to do with where it position on the engine they get hair line cracks and cause the miss fire affect when trying to start
Replace cap and rotor.and plugs and wires if they haven't been changed in awhile. Let me know if this solves the problem

#135 of 210 Re: 96 safari 4.3 vortec, won't start when it's humid [bda54] by Steve_01

Feb 10, 2009 (10:22 am)

Replying to: bda54 (Feb 09, 2009 2:57 pm)
bda54,
That sounds like the same issue a lot of us including me are having here. I have already replaced everything in the ignition system, checked the EGR valve, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and checked the injectors for leakage but I'm still having this issue so even though it seems like some sort of ignition problem, I have to believe that it is something other than ignition. I rented a code reader from AutoZone for free. The current readings I'm getting are related to certain O2 sensors. I'm debating weather or not to replace them at this point but if I want to drive the van it seems that I don't really have much of a choice.
 
The thing about getting information on the O2 sensors is that the vehicle has to run for about 5 minutes or so before you start getting feedback on the sensors. You said that if you hold down the accelerator, then you could keep it running although it backfires. My advice is to rent a code reader before you replace anything. You will probably get what I'm getting, "Multiple misfires in random cylinders" and it should narrow down which O2 sensor(s) is malfunctioning if any. Maybe that's the cause of the symptoms. Please let us know what you find either way. Thanks.

#136 of 210 Re: 96 safari 4.3 vortec, won't start when it's humid [Steve_01] by dakota4x4

Feb 10, 2009 (7:43 pm)

Replying to: Steve_01 (Feb 10, 2009 10:22 am)
when did you replace the cap and rotor? the car will start with a bad o2 sensor
replace the cap and rotor..!! I dont care if it is 1 month old or 5 months old or 1 year old they go bad because of the place they are located on the engine

#137 of 210 Re: 96 safari 4.3 vortec, won't start when it's humid [dakota4x4] by Steve_01

Feb 11, 2009 (9:24 am)

Replying to: dakota4x4 (Feb 10, 2009 7:43 pm)
Brand spankin' new OEM. Actually I bought two because the first one was not OEM. I thought maybe the aftermarket cap might be causing a problem but as it turned out, that wasn't the case. All the parts I have replaced have zero miles on them because the piece of crap is undrivable. The engine will start and run, it's just that it idles extremely rough, and if you give it gas it chokes and pukes. If I try putting it in gear and give it a little throttle forget it, it sounds like the engine is going to self destruct.

Messages Page 14 of 22

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