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Vans & Minivans GMC Safari & Chevy Astro GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Starting/Stalling/Idling Issues
154 messages, Last post on Aug 16, 2009 at 2:59 PM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: Steve_01 (Jan 01, 2009 12:22 am) Looks like my link on post #121 changed. Can't edit the link so here's the new one. |
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Replying to: 1shadetree (Jan 19, 2009 6:40 pm)
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Replying to: Steve_01 (Jan 21, 2009 5:26 pm) |
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Ok here is what I have. 1999 Chevy Astro Van 4.3L When I purchased this vehicle 1 year ago it always started up on the first crank. Didn't make a difference whether it was cold or hot. I noticed that once this winter started (I live in Florida) and the weather was a little colder. It started to become just a little hard to start. It would take two cranks, then three, four. Finally i hit it with some car cleaner and it fired up. I have been doing this for quite some time. Hit it with some carb cleaner and it fires up. Note once it is started it runs great. No hesitation, vibration, nothing it runs great. Now I have read that you need at least 65 PSI fuel pressure for this van to start, and no I have not run a fuel pressure test yet. ( I will definitely do this weekend). I guess i should also mention that whether the engine is cold or hot i still have to hit it with some carb cleaner. I also read that it could be the ECT sensor (coolant temp sensor). It said that if this sensor does not tell the ECM the engine is cold it won't pulse the injectors to start. Now as of late I have had to give it more than normal squirt of carb cleaner to get it going. Now my question is what do you think it could be. Something inside me just can't believe it is the fuel pump. I say this because once it starts it runs great. Either way I am not sure what it is. Also I need some advice on changing the fuel filter. In anticipation of having to do some work I did purchase a fuel filter and a rebuild kit for the fuel pump. (Much cheaper than buying a new fuel pump from Advance auto or Autozone) While I started to change the fuel filter I noticed that the fuel lines were bolted into the fuel filter very tight. So tight it seems to me that I would break the fuel line before it gave. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem also. I really want to change this filter but don't want to damage the fuel line trying to get the old filter out. Anyway I hope someone can really help me. |
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Replying to: keico (Jan 29, 2009 2:48 pm) I have a 97 Astro. My fuel pressure was around 57 or so while the engine was running. It would drop off to zero immediately after turning off the key. According to the book, the fuel pressure should drop off slowly after turning off the ignition. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator. I guess I had a 50/50 shot. That seemed to take care of both the fuel pressure, now 63 PSI, and the pressure dropping off slowly when shutting off the ignition. The pressure dropping immediately doesn't create any issues as far as engine starting or performance. I think more than anything it's an indication that there's an issue with the fuel system. As far as replacing the fuel filter, are you using two wrenches to loosen the nut? You should have one wrench on the fuel filter nut, and one on the line nut. Hold the fuel filter nut in place while loosening the line nut. Make sure you relieve the fuel pressure before you do this or be ready for a bit of a high pressure blast of fuel when the nut cracks loose. One more thing, Autozone has a tool rental program that allows you to basically purchase the tool and return it for a full refund within 90 days. I'm "renting' a code reader at the moment. Even if you don't have any codes, if you rent one of the better code readers you will be able to see the results of the output of most of the engine sensors including the O2 sensors. It might be worth a shot. Steve |
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Replying to: keico (Jan 29, 2009 2:48 pm) |
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I've been chasing this phantom for 4 months now. My Astro will start, run for a few seconds, then die. I finally got a TBI fuel tester, hooked it up to the left line right before the throttle body, and did not get any measurable pressure reading. This could be good news? My next step is to hook it up where the manual says to, which is right before the fuel filter. If I get good pressure there, then I know my tester is working, and that there is a problem between the fuel filter and the throttle body (blocked line?). If the pressure is not good before the filter, then I will know it's time to drop the tank. A few months back I had a dealer install a new OEM pump which I provided. That replacement did not solve the problem. Stay tuned.
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Replying to: blackpacific1 (Feb 07, 2009 6:04 pm)
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My 96 safari 4.3 vortec won't start when the temps get into the 20's or higher temps and it is humid. It will crank but then hesitate about every 3-4 seconds and then repeat this behavior, but will not start. If I hold down the accelerator, it will not do the hesitation but will backfire sometimes. It's almost like the distributor cap is wet inside and shorting accross to misfire on the wrong cylinder sometimes, when I try to start it. It's 36 degrees today and raining and I tried to start it and the same thing. Any suggestions. I don't want to start blindly replacing parts as I guess at the fix. It has about 135M miles on it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!! |
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Replying to: bda54 (Feb 09, 2009 1:57 pm) Replace cap and rotor.and plugs and wires if they haven't been changed in awhile. Let me know if this solves the problem
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