Last post on Oct 23, 2012 at 7:39 AM
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Mazda MAZDA5, Brakes, Wagon
#45 of 90 Change Mazda5 disc brake pads?
Oct 08, 2009 (8:26 am)
My 2006 Mazda 5 needs new brakes at only 30K miles, according to my dealer. This is very low mileage for replacements, but seems to be in line with several other forum complaints (#22, 24, 37). Anyway, the rotors only have about 1mm of wear on each face, so they are not a problem. Does anybody know what the specs are for minimum rotor thickness? The pads are in fact getting low so I will replace them soon. It's been 20 yrs since I did my own brake job, so I'm a little nervous about diving in! Are there any special Mazda tools required? Is there somewhere where the steps are spelled out? Would appreciate any info! Pads run between $60 and $110 for all wheels at auto supply shops, depending on grade. The dealer wants $300 for the job. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
#46 of 90 Re: Change Mazda5 disc brake pads? [shawr63]
Oct 08, 2009 (9:48 am)
I would not be surprised that the brakes are done at 30k. I mean if you like the brakes performance then expect the pads to wear out. I had many brands of cars, 30k was the number for good disk brakes. Drum brakes last longer, but then again, they don't stop that well.
The only thing that is hard to do when changing pads is compressing the brake piston. It is now extended to make up for the wear of the old pads. For the new pads to fit in (they're thicker) the piston has to be pushed back.
Some parts stores will loan you a press for it. Otherwise you can make a wedge out of two wrenches (big ones) and push hard on the piston. To do it easier, you could open the bleed screw behind each caliper, but be sure to bleed the system afterwards to make sure no air got trapped in the piston chamber.
Other useful things I could think of are to make sure you don't lose the thin copper sheet that sits under the pads - it acts like a spring and also ask the store for some anti-noise paste. It applies on the back of the pads to quiet the squeal.
It's a good idea to take the caliper apart and re-grease it to prevent it from getting stuck.
For some cars it is required to use new screws for the caliper, although I never did it.
Good luck and have fun!
#47 of 90 Re: Brake squeal in reverse [velveteendad1]
Dec 30, 2009 (3:01 pm)
Me too! haven't found anyone who is able to make that mess go away. It's embarrassing sometimes. I had new brakes put in and STILL the same noise.
#48 of 90 Bleed Mazda 5 brakes?
Feb 01, 2010 (4:49 pm)
OK, I finally got around to replacing my front disk pads today, and now I have another problem or two. First, when I compressed the pistons all the way back, I was looking for the brake fluid reservoir to fill up. But it didn't. The fluid went somewhere else, and I said Hmmm. And it came to get me when I pumped up the brakes after changing the pads, and got a hard pedal. In fact I can't move the car! So now I have to bleed, and my question is do I have to bleed both calipers equally, and how much? Do I bleed about the volume of the new pads and quit, or is there a trial & error procedure? And do I pump the brakes with the bleed screws open, or just let them bleed without pumping? I really don't want to wind up bleeding the whole system by introducing air.
Second, I couldn't retract the rear brake pistons at all. Does this have something to do with the handbrake function there? And do I have to use the bleed screws to move the pistons, in order to get the new pads in? Thanks for the advice, I need it!
#49 of 90 Re: Bleed Mazda 5 brakes? [shawr63]
Feb 20, 2010 (3:40 pm)
I personally do not do my own brakes but I was once told if i did was to buy a plastic tube(single user slit type) that goes over the bleed screw and not to force the fluid back into the reservoir as it is forcing some proportioning valve in the brake system that can wreck it. The plastic tube is to allow one person to drain the fluid with help as it closes back on itself so as not to introduce air if not you need someone to close the bleed value before you release the slowly pressed brake peddle to prevent air getting into the system. every time you press the brakes and bleed them you just need to make sure you are topping up the reservoir so that when you are pressing the peddle you are not drawing air from there.
#50 of 90 Front Brake Pads Replacement
Mar 28, 2010 (6:24 pm)
What tool do I need for the caliper screws?
#51 of 90 Re: Bleed Mazda 5 brakes? [athenasius]
Mar 28, 2010 (7:12 pm)
I finally figured out that my brake pad change problem (#48) is that the rear pistons will not retract by applying a clamp - they must be the screw type, not the push-straight-in type. The front pistons push in readily and changing the front pads is a breeze. The F pads were completely worn out at 35K but the R pads are down only maybe a third, so I just left them alone for now.
But I have to second the question in #50, namely what sort of special tool is needed to retract the R pistons? My wife's '96 Honda Accord wagon also needs a special tool to retract the R pistons - would that work on my Mazda 5? Thanks!
#52 of 90 Re: Bleed Mazda 5 brakes? [shawr63]
Mar 29, 2010 (10:50 am)
Thank you athenasius for your help, I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear.
What I am asking about is the tool (Hex socket ?) and what size (mm?, in?) for the screws holding the caliper to the pad holder
#53 of 90 Re: Bleed Mazda 5 brakes? [shawr63]
Mar 29, 2010 (11:07 am)
What happened finally with the hard pedal/locked F brakes after changing the F pads, was that everything relaxed out overnight and the brakes worked normally! No hard pedal or any other problems in F. Maybe there is an internal bleeder which takes care of any imbalance after pumping up the brakes following pad change, and it just takes time to operate. There is a moral here somewhere if we could just get at it......... Anyway, F pads are OK . I would still like to know what kind of special tool is needed to retract the R pistons. Anybody know?
#54 of 90 Re: Bleed Mazda 5 brakes? [shawr63]
Mar 29, 2010 (11:47 am)
Hey shaw63, after you jacked up the car and took out the tire, what did you use to unscrew the caliper?