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Mazda5 Brake Questions

46 messages, Last post on Oct 08, 2009 at 8:48 AM
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Replying to: vg33e power (Jan 20, 2009 12:32 pm) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9fpwj2ZQSM It seems to be part of the sediment/layer that sticks to the rotors after they cool down (i.e. overnight after some rain or snow), and it goes away as soon as you step on the brake a couple of times. During the day you can see it like "rust" on the rotor. Would it have to do with the brake pad material used? Who knows... |
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HI. What should brake pads for my Mazda 5 cost? If I don't go to an authorised dealer what make of pad should I fit?
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Replying to: jon72 (Mar 12, 2009 12:03 pm) However, if at all possible stick to original factory parts, they seem to be of a higher quality build and material, plus it is what your vehicle came with from the factory. You can never go wrong with OEM factory parts. If not, I am sure any local auto parts store carries brake pads. |
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I am very concerned that I have been told today, by the service department that the braking system on the Mazda 5 could be at fault after a long journey. What I mean by that is, the garage have told me that the metal on the rear disc brake expand due to any type of heat either a long journey or weather, and when you apply the hand brake and after the disc cool down there is a possibility that they may contract leaves the hand break inadequate for restricting the movement of the cars and the car can be move even when the hand break is on. Can anybody advise me if they have had this problem or anything similar.
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Replying to: ken3571 (Sep 22, 2009 7:39 am) The thickness of the disk changes with the temperature, but only microns. If you would get the brake shoes only to touch the disk, then yes, maybe there would be a thin gap. When the parking brake is applied, there is a lot of tension in the cable. Think of it like a pulled spring. A little change in the thickness of the disk will be accommodated by the tension. Now there is a way to pull on the hand brake so hard that a bracket somewhere may get bent and the cable then, gets effectively longer. That leads to the brake not being set properly. Like you would only pull it one or two clicks only. Changes in temperature may affect its effectiveness, then. But the change will be more likely due to brake cable expansion or contraction (tubes also) then the disk brake dilatation. Also keep in mind that disk brakes are made to withstand high temperature (and a lot of variation). Such materials do not expand/contract that much. Another example of the high qualifications dealership technicians have. |
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My 2006 Mazda 5 needs new brakes at only 30K miles, according to my dealer. This is very low mileage for replacements, but seems to be in line with several other forum complaints (#22, 24, 37). Anyway, the rotors only have about 1mm of wear on each face, so they are not a problem. Does anybody know what the specs are for minimum rotor thickness? The pads are in fact getting low so I will replace them soon. It's been 20 yrs since I did my own brake job, so I'm a little nervous about diving in! Are there any special Mazda tools required? Is there somewhere where the steps are spelled out? Would appreciate any info! Pads run between $60 and $110 for all wheels at auto supply shops, depending on grade. The dealer wants $300 for the job. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
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Replying to: shawr63 (Oct 08, 2009 7:26 am) The only thing that is hard to do when changing pads is compressing the brake piston. It is now extended to make up for the wear of the old pads. For the new pads to fit in (they're thicker) the piston has to be pushed back. Some parts stores will loan you a press for it. Otherwise you can make a wedge out of two wrenches (big ones) and push hard on the piston. To do it easier, you could open the bleed screw behind each caliper, but be sure to bleed the system afterwards to make sure no air got trapped in the piston chamber. Other useful things I could think of are to make sure you don't lose the thin copper sheet that sits under the pads - it acts like a spring and also ask the store for some anti-noise paste. It applies on the back of the pads to quiet the squeal. It's a good idea to take the caliper apart and re-grease it to prevent it from getting stuck. For some cars it is required to use new screws for the caliper, although I never did it. Good luck and have fun! |
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