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Mazda5 Brake Questions

46 messages,  Last post on Oct 08, 2009 at 8:48 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda MAZDA5, Brakes, Wagon

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#37 of 46 Re: How long should first brakes last? [rsolomon] by space5 Sep 19, 2008 (6:59 pm)
Replying to: rsolomon (Jul 25, 2007 12:42 pm) I have a 2006 Mazda 5 that requires new rotors and brake pads after 42000 kms. The Mazda dealership tried to suggest it was our driving habits that were causing this problem. After it was mentioned that we have a 1999 Honda Civic with 180000 kms on it and we have changed the brake PADS twice since new and the rotors are original they did concede that it was very low mileage for this kind of problem. I doubt if we will get anywhere with warranty but Mazda Canada will be hearing about this issue. As an aside they also mentioned that the left front strut was in need of replacement as it was deemed unsafe to drive the vehicle. I will be sending a complaint to Transport Canada as this is definitely a safety issue. I will keep you posted as events unfold. Brian
#38 of 46 Brake squeal in reverse by velveteendad1 Jan 19, 2009 (5:29 pm)
Has anyone found a solution for the brake squeal in reverse that seems to be somewhat common for Mazda 5s? Our dealer's tried to solve this twice already, and their attempts have been unsuccessful - the brakes still squeal when we back out of the garage.   Thanks for any suggestions! Replies to this message: vg33e power (Jan 20, 2009 12:32 pm) coolmazda5 (Jan 20, 2009 6:36 pm)
#39 of 46 Re: Brake squeal in reverse [velveteendad1] by vg33e power Jan 20, 2009 (12:32 pm)
Replying to: velveteendad1 (Jan 19, 2009 5:29 pm) Mine actually hum/screech sort of like a rusty sound from time to time, specially if they are wet and I am sort like softly riding the brakes when backing up. Dont know why it does it, but it seems to be a common thing. If anyone has a solution, please chime in. Replies to this message: coolmazda5 (Jan 20, 2009 6:36 pm)
#40 of 46 Re: Brake squeal in reverse [vg33e power] by coolmazda5 Jan 20, 2009 (6:36 pm)
Replying to: vg33e power (Jan 20, 2009 12:32 pm) What squeal? I cannot heeeeaaaarrr it...   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9fpwj2ZQSM   It seems to be part of the sediment/layer that sticks to the rotors after they cool down (i.e. overnight after some rain or snow), and it goes away as soon as you step on the brake a couple of times. During the day you can see it like "rust" on the rotor. Would it have to do with the brake pad material used? Who knows...
#41 of 46 bake pad cost - Mazda 5 by jon72 Mar 12, 2009 (12:03 pm)
HI. What should brake pads for my Mazda 5 cost? If I don't go to an authorised dealer what make of pad should I fit? Replies to this message: vg33e power (Mar 12, 2009 1:34 pm)
#42 of 46 Re: bake pad cost - Mazda 5 [jon72] by vg33e power Mar 12, 2009 (1:34 pm)
Replying to: jon72 (Mar 12, 2009 12:03 pm) I work for a dealership, so I may be partially biased and the fact that I pay cost plus 10% on all factory parts don't help either.   However, if at all possible stick to original factory parts, they seem to be of a higher quality build and material, plus it is what your vehicle came with from the factory. You can never go wrong with OEM factory parts. If not, I am sure any local auto parts store carries brake pads.
#43 of 46 Hand Break problems by ken3571 Sep 22, 2009 (7:39 am)
I am very concerned that I have been told today, by the service department that the braking system on the Mazda 5 could be at fault after a long journey. What I mean by that is, the garage have told me that the metal on the rear disc brake expand due to any type of heat either a long journey or weather, and when you apply the hand brake and after the disc cool down there is a possibility that they may contract leaves the hand break inadequate for restricting the movement of the cars and the car can be move even when the hand break is on. Can anybody advise me if they have had this problem or anything similar. Replies to this message: vicenac (Sep 24, 2009 1:51 pm)
#44 of 46 Re: Hand Break problems [ken3571] by vicenac Sep 24, 2009 (1:51 pm)
Replying to: ken3571 (Sep 22, 2009 7:39 am) Oh man this is so bogus! The thickness of the disk changes with the temperature, but only microns. If you would get the brake shoes only to touch the disk, then yes, maybe there would be a thin gap. When the parking brake is applied, there is a lot of tension in the cable. Think of it like a pulled spring. A little change in the thickness of the disk will be accommodated by the tension. Now there is a way to pull on the hand brake so hard that a bracket somewhere may get bent and the cable then, gets effectively longer. That leads to the brake not being set properly. Like you would only pull it one or two clicks only. Changes in temperature may affect its effectiveness, then. But the change will be more likely due to brake cable expansion or contraction (tubes also) then the disk brake dilatation. Also keep in mind that disk brakes are made to withstand high temperature (and a lot of variation). Such materials do not expand/contract that much.   Another example of the high qualifications dealership technicians have.
#45 of 46 Change Mazda5 disc brake pads? by shawr63 Oct 08, 2009 (7:26 am)
My 2006 Mazda 5 needs new brakes at only 30K miles, according to my dealer. This is very low mileage for replacements, but seems to be in line with several other forum complaints (#22, 24, 37). Anyway, the rotors only have about 1mm of wear on each face, so they are not a problem. Does anybody know what the specs are for minimum rotor thickness? The pads are in fact getting low so I will replace them soon. It's been 20 yrs since I did my own brake job, so I'm a little nervous about diving in! Are there any special Mazda tools required? Is there somewhere where the steps are spelled out? Would appreciate any info! Pads run between $60 and $110 for all wheels at auto supply shops, depending on grade. The dealer wants $300 for the job. Thanks in advance for any suggestions! Replies to this message: vicenac (Oct 08, 2009 8:48 am)
#46 of 46 Re: Change Mazda5 disc brake pads? [shawr63] by vicenac Oct 08, 2009 (8:48 am)
Replying to: shawr63 (Oct 08, 2009 7:26 am) I would not be surprised that the brakes are done at 30k. I mean if you like the brakes performance then expect the pads to wear out. I had many brands of cars, 30k was the number for good disk brakes. Drum brakes last longer, but then again, they don't stop that well.   The only thing that is hard to do when changing pads is compressing the brake piston. It is now extended to make up for the wear of the old pads. For the new pads to fit in (they're thicker) the piston has to be pushed back. Some parts stores will loan you a press for it. Otherwise you can make a wedge out of two wrenches (big ones) and push hard on the piston. To do it easier, you could open the bleed screw behind each caliper, but be sure to bleed the system afterwards to make sure no air got trapped in the piston chamber. Other useful things I could think of are to make sure you don't lose the thin copper sheet that sits under the pads - it acts like a spring and also ask the store for some anti-noise paste. It applies on the back of the pads to quiet the squeal. It's a good idea to take the caliper apart and re-grease it to prevent it from getting stuck.   For some cars it is required to use new screws for the caliper, although I never did it.   Good luck and have fun!

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