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Vans & Minivans Mazda Mazda5 Mazda5 Suspension
220 messages, Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 8:41 AM
You are in the Mazda Mazda5 Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: trishr1 (Nov 30, 2007 6:50 pm) We went out to dinner last night and I got to drive the 5 in the cold. It also set out for a couple our when we were out in 19F weather, so not quite to -10C and no ill effects. We may or may not see -25C, but not until Jan/Feb. I have talked to my wife and she reports no sounds at all. I looked up the TSB and checked the VIN plate on the care. I was a little surprised to see a build date of 11/06 (we bought in 11/07). It appears that a change may have been made sometime in the 2006 run. I see that the VINs in the TSB are: 111238 for bushings and 120197 for the Control arm. Ours ends with 141276. I guess all I can say is start shopping Mazda service. So far we've had pretty good luck with service... the dealership didn't do a walk-around, so our brand new 5 had a dent and had to go to the body shop! Our 2001 Toyota ECHO had basically the same issue with the front suspension and we lucked out with a service department that replaced the entire right front suspension, fixing the issue. Unfortunately, the warranty expired and now the left does it... I feel really bad for those who have the issue because it ruins such a nice car! |
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Replying to: trishr1 (Nov 30, 2007 6:50 pm) 2. The crunch happens anytime it is very cold outside, moreso when it's 32 degrees or less. It is VERY noticeable over speed bumps, large road undulations, or large potholes. Also, if the driveway you are backing out of has a large incline, and you come out fast enough, it will crunch, as well. Minor potholes in the road will sometimes elicit smaller crunch noises, as well. But, after about 20 minutes or so of driving, the suspension seems to warm up and it doesn't make any noises, unless, of course, you go over a large speedbump at speed. The suspension has to articulate just enough for you to hear it well. If it's really cold, however, you don't really need to do much in order to hear it. Hope that helps answer your questions.
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Replying to: nissmazlover (Dec 03, 2007 10:03 am) Anyone else out there with the same problem or have had a permanent fix? 
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Hi suspension problem readers, After having the bushings changed in Nov 06 and the control arms replaced in March 07, we continued to have front and rear suspension noise in sub zero temps. I went to a different dealership (where we had had our initial sub-par buying experience) and after listening to the problem, they were happy to replace the bushings and controls arms again, claiming that the previous repairs may not have involved the updated suspension parts. So, two weeks ago we had it done and voila, it has a quiet ride again. It sounds like the new car it is (we have an 06 GT 5sp with 23k km) and makes it a pleasure to drive once more. The last time we had the bushings replaced, the noise reappeared after 2 months. The last control arm change didn't even score us one day of riding without noise. We will see how long the current 'fix' lasts. with crossed appendages, riproy
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Replying to: riproy (Dec 18, 2007 9:58 am) I took mine in today for an oil change - a fix for the intermittent remote starter problem (yes there is a fix for that too), and "front" bushing replacements again (second time). The Service Manager had said a few weeks ago that they could only do the front bushings (but at that time the noise was from the rear only of my vehicle) so I called Mazda Canada to lodge a complaint about the rear noise. This must have been duly noted, because they replaced both the front and rear bushings today I noticed no noise on the short ride home, HOWEVER, there is a note of caution, it is mild out today, -5C, so this is not a true test, but it was nice to hear nothing but road noise  . Some people ,on other forums, can't really understand why there is such a fuss about a little squeak here and there. Those who complain about the "crunching noise" may have higher expectations or standards.  Anyway, I'm with you, and will cross anything that will help make it a permanent fix. |
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Replying to: riproy (Dec 18, 2007 9:58 am) |
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Replying to: mdchachi (Dec 18, 2007 2:45 pm) Are you in a cool climate or cold climate? A colder climate might predict a more sustained crunch. Initially mine would crunch until it warmed up, but later on it crunched all the time. What year of vehicle - 2007 or 2008? Out of curiosity to those with squeaky, crunching vehicles regardless of model year - anyone's VIN start with "JP"?
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Replying to: trishr1 (Dec 18, 2007 6:09 pm) Mine is a 2006. The previous owner said he did have some warranty work done regarding this issue but obviously it didn't take care of the problem. I'll check my VIN later. What does "JP" mean? I believe all Mazda 5's are made in Japan so if that's what it means, they should all have it.
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Replying to: mdchachi (Dec 19, 2007 7:48 am) |
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Replying to: mdchachi (Dec 19, 2007 7:48 am) "The original TSB number 02-007/06 covers vehicles with VINs lower than JM1 CR **** ** 111238 (before Nov 1, 2005) for stabilizer bushings fix and VINs lower than JM1 CR **** ** 120197 before Jan 27 2006 for the lower arm fix. " I was just wondering if all of the affected vehicles might have come from a specific vehicle type or manufacturing division. What a VIN means article. The first character in the WMI sequence represents the country where the vehicle was manufactured. Countries like the United States (1 or 4), Canada (2) and Mexico (3) are represented by numbers while other countries such as Germany (W), Italy (Z) and Japan (J) are represented by letters. The second character refers to the manufacturer. The characters can be either letters or numbers. For example: Jaguar (A), Dodge (B), Chrysler (C), Jeep (J), Buick (4), Cadillac (6) or Saturn (8). The third character represents the vehicle type or manufacturing division. Vehicle Description Section (VDS) and Check Digit The vehicle description section consists of five characters (the 4th to 8th characters) which identify everything from the body style, engine type, and braking system to model, series, restraint system, etc. The 9th character is a VIN accuracy check digit which verifies the previous VIN numbers. It is determined by carrying out a mathematical computation developed by the Department of Transportation (DOT). Vehicle Identification Section (VIS) The vehicle identification section includes the last eight characters in the VIN number. The numbers identify the model year (10th character) and the assembly plant for the vehicle (11th character). A number or letter may represent the model year. For example: 1998 (W), 2000 (Y), 2007 (7) or 2008 (8). The 12th to 17th characters are the actual serial number of the vehicle—these last 6 digits make the vehicle unique (think of DNA). It can also help to identify whether the vehicle was the first, the hundredth, or the last vehicle off the manufacturer’s assembly line. This is valuable information for collectors. Somewhere I read on a post perhaps or elsewhere that the bushings they had used were a plastic material, but the service tech said they were rubber which is the opposite if what I read and the reason for the problems. Does anyone else recall what the defective bushings were made of? |
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