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Pontiac Aztek Battery Problems

15 messages,  Last post on Sep 29, 2009 at 5:49 PM

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What is this discussion about? Pontiac Aztek, Electrical, SUV

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#6 of 15 ok thanks by donethat Nov 12, 2006 (6:15 pm)
I took it to Sears and they did it. Thanks for everyone's help!
#7 of 15 Jump start by punkykid3 Feb 01, 2007 (4:21 am)
I just purchased a 2003 Aztek from a buick dealership. A week after the battery went dead. It had to be jump started but not with the battery terminals. I'm not sure what my boyfriend put the battery cables on to get it started but my question is where do you put the jumper cables to jump an Aztek being the terminals are in such a bad spot? The dealership did replace the battery free of charge. Replies to this message: ray80 (Feb 01, 2007 4:28 am) punkykid3 (Feb 01, 2007 4:36 am)
#8 of 15 Re: Jump start [punkykid3] by ray80 Feb 01, 2007 (4:28 am)
Replying to: punkykid3 (Feb 01, 2007 4:21 am) Hhmm the longer I have a vehicle, the more things I forget about them. For the positive (red) cable, I think there may be an easy accessible terminal, most likely covered with red plastic cover in general area of battery. The negative cable can be attached on any grounded metal part. I will look it up in manual when I get a chance.   I did look it up, the connection for + (red) cable is under the tethered cap at front of underhood fuse box Replies to this message: punkykid3 (Feb 01, 2007 4:36 am)
#9 of 15 Re: Jump start [ray80] by punkykid3 Feb 01, 2007 (4:36 am)
Replying to: ray80 (Feb 01, 2007 4:28 am) Thanks. I did not get an owners manual with my Aztek. The dealership has ordered one. After having the battery replaced I had a problem with the engine racing at 3.5 rpms. Dealership towed it and had it all day Monday. I picked it up late in the day and drove it home after their explanation of the computer resetting itself after the battery failure. Made it home and had it towed back because of the racing engine problem. Got it back yesterday finally after they replaced a computer module. Hopefully we are done with the problems.
#10 of 15 Re: Anyone, please? [donethat] by wzup123 Oct 23, 2007 (11:12 am)
Replying to: donethat (Nov 02, 2006 11:41 am) I went to walmart to have battery replaced. They couldn't get it out because the bolt holding down spins around and will not come out. They said there is no way to get at the nust attached under the bolt to remove it. Any ideas? Replies to this message: ray80 (Oct 23, 2007 11:33 am) herrmanc (Jan 20, 2009 6:30 pm)
#11 of 15 Re: Anyone, please? [wzup123] by ray80 Oct 23, 2007 (11:33 am)
Replying to: wzup123 (Oct 23, 2007 11:12 am) Hhmm that could be trouble. I'd have to wonder if perhaps they used the wrong size socket to get bolt off and/or stripped it (it should be 9/16). Its not easy to get any other kind of gripping tool down there to put any kind of up pressure on it while turning. I can take a closer look to see if its possible to get a hand under there and maybe push bolt from bottom. Or perhaps someone real creative could suggest putting goop like stuff in socket,put it on bolt let it dry and then very gently lift while turning.
#12 of 15 driving on dead battery burn more gas? by dalejrnut74 Jan 14, 2009 (7:02 am)
My battery in my 2002 aztek is now dead. We had to jump it to get it started and I drove it to my husbands work where he could work on it indoors. The issue was it was burning more gas all the way there seemingly faster than my Ford Superduty does. Gas gauge basically dropped like a rock! Could it be low spark from running on the alternator only causing it to burn more gas?
#13 of 15 Re: Anyone, please? [wzup123] by herrmanc Jan 20, 2009 (6:30 pm)
Replying to: wzup123 (Oct 23, 2007 11:12 am) I have the same problem; did you ever get the bolt out? I am about to get the blow torch out to start melting things......
#14 of 15 by decompiler Mar 22, 2009 (8:45 pm)
It's not very fun getting that bolt out but if you just keep at it, eventually it will come out. Keep wiggling the fuse box off - it will take time. Then you'll have to get an extension for your ratchet driver that will reach down to the bolt tha holds the support brace over the battery. Remove the two easy to reach bolts on the brace closest to the radiator. Loosen the hard-to-reach bolt under the fuse box only enough to swivel the brace out of your way. undo the hot and cold terminals. The cold terminal is not very fun at all to loosen. There's just so very little room to get your hand or a tool down there to loosen the bolts.   It's not very hard to remove the battery. It's just really bothersome. There's just so little room inside the engine compartment.   There's a little tab you have to set the fuse box back down onto. I'm kind of amazed that's all that keeps the fuse box in place.
#15 of 15 Regarding the battery tray bolt by 13brian Sep 29, 2009 (5:49 pm)
I just went to replace battery, the bolt for the hold down was spinning and not coming loose. We just had to destroy the hold down wedge, then got the battery out. We then removed the battery tray and found that the nut on the underside is actually molded into the tray, so the tray broke and was spinning. Answer- will have to buy a whole new tray = YAY! Excited about that, soooo....whatever you do make SURE you use anit-seize on the hold down bolt so this does not happen to you. It is atypical that you get to replace a battery in your garage, ususally side of the road or other...

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