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Coupes & Convertibles Ford Mustang Ford Mustang Electrical Problems
119 messages, Last post on Jun 30, 2009 at 10:18 AM
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That last post was written in such an obnoxious manner that I can't believe I'm trying to help you. FORD: 2005-2008 Mustang 2005 Explorer Sport Trac 2005-2008 Expedition, Explorer 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac LINCOLN: 2005-2008 Navigator MERCURY: 2005-2008 Mountaineer ISSUE: Some 2005-2008 Mustang , Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, Expedition, Navigator, 2005 Explorer Sport Trac and 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac vehicles may experience a no start and have a discharged battery. They are usually stored for prolonged periods of time or are driven infrequently for short distances. Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time, 30 days or more, vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw. ACTION: Follow the Service Tips steps to correct the condition. SERVICE TIPS Charging system diagnostics and battery draw test are located in Workshop Manual, Section 414-00. Discharged batteries need to be properly recharged following the procedures in TSB 07-5-8. All modern automobiles have several micro processors in their electrical system that will draw small amounts of electrical current when the vehicle key is off. Normal current draw is between 20-30 milliamps (workshop manual specification is up to 50 milliamps 0.050 amps). The more discharged a battery becomes, the more susceptible it is to permanent damage. This is more likely in low temperatures (below 32 °F (0 °C). Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time (30 days or more), vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw. NOTE: ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC ACCESSORIES OR COMPONENTS ADDED TO THE VEHICLE BY THE DEALER OR BY THE OWNER WILL INCREASE THE CURRENT DRAW LOADS AND ADVERSELY AFFECT BATTERY PERFORMANCE AND DURABILITY. The vehicle's charging system is designed to supply the vehicle's electrical power needs and maintain the battery to near full charge during normal vehicle use. The charging system is not capable of bringing a deeply discharged battery back to near full charge in a short amount of time such as allowing the vehicle to idle for 15 minutes to "recharge the battery" or from short drive cycles. Short drive cycles will only provide a small surface charge to the battery. To fully recharge a battery that is fully discharged requires operating the vehicle for approximately two (2) hours with engine speed above 1500 RPM. Vehicles that are stored for extended periods or are driven infrequently for short distances may need to use an auxiliary battery maintainer/charger that is expressly designed to maintain the battery state of charge during storage. These maintainers/chargers are available in the automotive aftermarket and should be used according to their manufacturer's direction. OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 07-05-8 WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only - Not Warrantable I am always willing to try to help people who have questions or problems that their dealer can't seem to help them with if I can. I don't need to come to the forum though to read people bitching about how bad Fords are written in the implication that Fords are uniquely worse then other vehicles out there. |
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Under $50 from Walmart, they even have solar poweared ones for those who don't garage their cars. Read my post of above. If you do, you will understand that if there is a 50 milliamp or less draw on your battery while the car is OFF then there is no problem with the electrical system. Even though you are driving your car on an average of once per week, you are clearly not driving it far enough to recover from the discharge that is occuring while the car sits. Mark Mark. |
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Replying to: mschmal (Jan 03, 2008 7:40 am)  I am just curious what I can tell my dealer to point them in the right direction. The current dealer that I am working with (I switched from one because they treated me like I am a stupid girl) is very good and I trust that they have checked things out thoroughly, but they still couldn't find anything wrong the last time I had my car in the beginning of December.
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Replying to: mschmal (Jan 03, 2008 7:40 am)
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Replying to: cccompson (Jan 03, 2008 2:10 pm)
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If you check your car when it is off, it should be drawing 50 or less milliamps. If that is the case, then your car is operating as designed. more than 50 milliamps you have something broken. less than 50 milliamps, you have a normal Mustang. Second, if you read the TSB, you will clearly see that just because you drive the car on a regular basis, if you do not drive it far or long enough to deep charge the battery, you are still going to need to jump it. Hence the battery minder. Mark. PS the TSB I posted was: 07-5-13 DISCHARGED BATTERIES - VEHICLES IN STORAGE/LIMITED USAGE Publication Date: March 5, 2007
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Replying to: mschmal (Jan 04, 2008 11:39 am) |
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Replying to: mellor_21 (Jan 03, 2008 5:15 pm)
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Replying to: cccompson (Jan 04, 2008 3:54 pm) 
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Folks, ponies are meant to have their legs stretched. Storing a car in the winter and dead batteries go together like ham and cheese. My 2000 GT Vert does the same thing. I usually just buy a new battery every March or April....goes with the territory. The worse thing you can do is run it ocassionally for short periods of time. Builds up a lot of condensation in the exhaust too when you do this. If you just lay it up for the winter, pull the battery out and store it inside the house. Then, in the spring, use a deep-cycle charger to boost it up and install it. Each time the battery goes dead, the computer will have to reprogram itself too....it is not just the radio pre-sets. You are supposed to start the car and let it idle until it warms up before you drive it too. This ensures that the idle speed is set correctly and allows the car to be out of "open-loop" mode. |
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