Last post on Nov 12, 2012 at 8:30 PM
You are in the Nissan Maxima
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Maxima, Sedan
#1 of 859 OK, I'll start
May 22, 2001 (4:46 pm)
I bought a 2000 Maxima instead of a Passat in part because the nearest VW dealer is over 50 miles away and East Tennessee Nissan is less than 1 mile from my house. However, I'm not too impressed with them so far. There are rumors around (it's a small town) that the owner is a Yankee from Michigan who uses this and several other car dealerships to launder his drug money. But I digress: what I know is that the buying "experience" was the classic old-fashioned boiler room runaround job with a salesman, assistant manager/closer, sales manager and finance guy all trying to work us over. The service manager isn't very efficient or competent, either. But I like the car.
#2 of 859 dealer experience
May 27, 2001 (7:41 am)
Bought mine from Cole-Gilmore in Kalamazoo. The buying experience was very straight-forward and simple. I had been shopping around a lot and was debating between the Infiniti I-30 and the Maxima GLE. Cole-Gilmore didn't have much stock, but happened to have the exact car I wanted - Satin Blue Pearl GLE with Meridian seats, sunroof, traction control, etc. The Infiniti dealer didn't have an L with traction control, which was a deal breaker. The salesman at C-G was a young college kid, we came to terms on price very quickly, no run arounds with managers of any type. Now I'm living just outside of Wash. D.C., have only had scheduled maintenance and seems fine. For service we go to a dealer whose cars for sale did NOT have ADM and all that nonsense - just hedging our bets - figure a dealer who plays games on sales will also fool around with service.
#3 of 859 bought mine in brooklyn, NY
Jun 11, 2001 (1:22 pm)
Bay ridge nissan...overall, they were trying to screw us in every angle. the worst thing is that, this was recommended by a friend who between him and our friends have bought or leased 5 cars from them. we agreed on a price after 2 trips to the dealership, then put us through the finance guy who tried to get another $500 out of us. then, just gave in at the end and have them install an extra alarm on top of the factory alarm for that 500bucks. all in all, i believe we paid invoice + the 500bucks, which we treated as dest charge cause we didn't get charged that + tax. no other charges such as doc fee or whatever else they could come up with. im sure i could've went to another dealership and came up with this price without all the hassle i went thru with Bay Ridge nissan. anyone have questions on buying a car, email me... i'm going thru buying another car, an 01 accord coupe for my girlfriend so u could call me an expert..lol..
#4 of 859 Maxima Depreciation
Aug 23, 2001 (12:14 pm)
I am in the position of choosing between an '01 or '02 Maxima. Could anyone here help me with information on how much depreciation the '01 will take as a 1 year old car now that the '02's are out. This will help a lot in the decission.
#5 of 859 dealer says my 93 se isn't worth fixing
Aug 23, 2001 (3:03 pm)
my beloved 93 s w/merely 106k miles went in for service last week--same dealership where i'd bought it used 4 years ago. verdict: neither roadworthy nor worth fixing. i knew it pulled to the right a bit & made a few mild noises, but i had no idea it was in this bad shape. exhaust, ball joints, possible valve job, brakes, & tires. they say they'll sell it to the wholesaler for a thousand or so. can this be for real? i can't believe it's not worth fixing. any coments?
#6 of 859 martha12
by KarenS HOST
Aug 24, 2001 (10:27 am)
So sorry to hear about your Maxima troubles. Have you looked at the Nissan Maxima Problems discussion in Maintenance & Repair? Perhaps some other owners there can offer you some support and advice.
#7 of 859 Shot at 100K -- hard to believe.
Aug 24, 2001 (2:10 pm)
Checked Edmunds for a 1993 GXE list trade-in at 4396, retail $6,500. Could it be that the mechanic wants to be the purchaser at auction. I know this may sound like a Condit answer, but the dealer could be a cheat, or completely honest, a very good, careful mechanic, or one who wants to make a good deal for himself. See if you can find an independent Nissan specialist. Have him do a compression test on the engine, and any relevant tests to determine the health of your engine. If it can be repaired at a reasonable cost then consider the other repairs as well. . NONE of the other repairs merit junking the car.
Tom and Ray of Cartalk.cars.com have calculated that every car (regardless of age) needs about 1200/year for maintenance and repairs. I took their advice about 3 years ago and have the appropriate amount deducted directly from my paycheck into a special auto account. This allows you to save up in easy years for those that are not so good. I generally purchase cars at 50-60K miles and my goal is to run them to 200,000. I’ve got a 1988 Dodge Aires to 170,000 miles. Let me relate this year’s experience with one of my vehicles.
My wife (spotless driving record) slid on some ice in January in our 1991 Mazda. We thought that it just needed an alignment. We took it into the tire shop. They said it needed a new wheel. Purchased the wheel. They couldn't align the car. A lot of stuff was bent. Went to the Mazda specialist and not only did we need to replace steering components because of the accident, but many had to be replaced because they were worn out. We also had to replace suspension items on the side that was not harmed in the accident. So we replaced the both struts, both strut mounts, the steering a-arm, right control arm and right wheel bearing. I had to pay for the strut mounts, and left side strut myself.
After that repair, the car still jerked and wobbled when it hit a bump. We needed new tires anyway. Went back to the tire shop. Couldn't align it again. This time the left side needed a power control arm, and a new ball joint. Frankly the car had vibrated since I bought it 3 years ago, and we’d ignored it since an alignment seemed to minimize the problem. But it was now much worse.
Fixed, and the car drives like it's new. Quiet and beautiful. Total Cost about 3,400. Half paid by insurance. I'm jealous of my wife because her accident actually saved us a bundle. The 2 prior years, total maintenance and repairs was only about $300.00 a year. If I take off $750.00 for the repair that was only caused by the accident, my total costs for 3 years comes to $2650.00. Well within the maintenance amount. The car behaves like it's new. What's more important is that I know know exactly when these components were replaced. I'd rather have a vehicle where I know the repairs that have been done and need to be done.
This has happened on other cars I have had before. There is one bad year, then it works with minimal repairs for 3-5 years.
My view is that if the car still looks and if the engine is intact without a huge expense go after the repairs. Let's look at your repairs.
Tires -- there are a maintenance item, replacing them and an alignment them will improve your ride.
Exhaust. This is a little early for that kind of a repair, but generally the repair for this will be free replacement parts for as long as you own the car -- if you go for a muffler specialist. (I prefer a local specialist over a chain since I was cheated by a major chain. George, are you listening). This is because they generally won't have to replace them again. The first set lasted 100,000 miles, and the second should last at least as long. I would consider this an ordinary maintenance option.
Brakes. Maintenance item. If you've gotten more than 60,000 miles on these in suburban driving, this is excellent. The brakes are due for a replacement as ordinary wear and tear items.
Ball Joint. This is a fairly normal wear item, depending on how it has been driven. I would recommend taking it to a tire store with a good reputation, who has a very experienced mechanic on steering repairs. Let him see what needs to be repaired.
Valve Job. Find another trusted Nissan engine specialist. Have them check on the valves, and do other engine quality checks.If it is really expensive, and requires a full overhaul, then it might be time to consider letting it go.
You don’t have to fix everything at once. The valve job appears iffy at this point. Unless it is damaging the engine further it can be postponed. I would probably fix the brakes, ball joint, and replace tires at the same time as the first repair. Also check shocks control arms and other suspension units.
I find it hard to believe that a Maxima at 100,000 is shot, but a Nissan specialist mechanic outside of the dealership can tell you that independently. He is not involved in car sales – even indirectly.
#8 of 859 Nissan Maxima Timing Belt Replacement
Sep 22, 2001 (11:01 am)
Hello all. Wanted to know if any of you have had the timing belt replaced, and if replaced included the water pump. I purchased a 1995 GLE and negotiated a price because the owner apparently never new to replace the timing belt. It has 114,000 miles on it and is gorgeous. From all indications it should have been replaced at 70,000 miles. I've been quoted 250.00 plus 80.00 for the seals which seems reasonable. Your response is appreciated.
#9 of 859 With that many miles replace
Oct 04, 2001 (8:20 am)
both the timing belt and the water pump. Save a possible expensive repair further down the road.
#10 of 859 timing belt?
Nov 16, 2001 (9:23 am)
I'm pretty sure that the '95 Maxima uses a timing chain, not a belt. Not sure what the replacement schedule on that is, but it should last significantly longer than a timing belt.