Last post on Aug 03, 2012 at 6:02 PM
You are in the Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan
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Chrysler Town and Country, Dodge Caravan, Exterior, Van
#45 of 411 window roof leak
Mar 14, 2007 (8:57 pm)
I havea dodge 2005 grand caravan sxt. Bought it used in Jan 2007 with 26000 miles and discovered water leaking from the "A" post grab handle on the pass. side. Have taken in twice to dodge dealer and they resealed the windshield and replaced the roof trim and made sure the drains for the sunroof were clear. Any ideas? The dealer stated that they could not find where it was leaking from and had initally said it was definitely not the windshield but when I picked it up they said that that's what is was
#46 of 411 Re: Drivers Door Power Window [pvibbert]
Mar 16, 2007 (6:12 am)
I'm having the same problem with my 2001 T&C EX. A few weeks ago the driver's door power window started acting funny and getting stuck in either the up or down position. It wasn't a jam, but seemed more like a switch problem. Now the driver's door window is stuck in the up position and won't come down. When I engage the switch I can hear a click, but nothing happens. Any ideas?
#47 of 411 Chain device on power sliding door
Apr 18, 2007 (7:11 am)
Is there any maintenance that should be performed on the chain device that opens/closes the power sliding doors? I have a 2005 T&C and there is a "gritty" sound when the doors open and close. Should that be lubed or cleaned somehow?
#48 of 411 01 TC Van sliding door problems
May 04, 2007 (7:28 pm)
Our power door no longer opens--when I press the overhead driver button or the passenger button, the door will unlatch but then not open. Same goes when the door is open--if we press the button the door will close but then stop about an inch from latching?
Is this covered by a TSB? Is there some basic maintenance that will help this problem? Any ideas?
Although our hatch has never opened or closed properly our sliding door has always worked--until now">!
#49 of 411 Re: 01 TC Van sliding door problems [lyl]
May 17, 2007 (8:43 am)
My '01 T&C Limitted has issues w/ bothe sliding doors.
Drivers side is itermittent. Passenger side shows no signs of life at all.
When opening and closing manually, the driver side is much harder to move than the passenger side.
The dealer wants $100 just to look at it. Last time I took it to the dealer they charged me $900 to reprogram the transmission CPU.
I hate the dealer.... I'd like to fix it my self.
How can I tell which parts I need for each door?
#50 of 411 Re: Drivers Door Power Window [kcrossley]
Jun 03, 2007 (11:20 am)
This problem seems to happen consistently. It happened to
both my windows which are barely ever used. Chrysler should
issue a recall since this is a severe and pervasive defect.
Aside from the extrmely soft brushes in the motor (which
you have to be careful of when working on the motor)
the the problem is primarily with the bi-metalic overcurrent
limiter inside the motor. Take this "fuse" out, and get
a replacement and lube all parts in the window mechanism
to limit stress on the motor. A really, really hard crank in a vice while heating with a blow torch will take care of
the bi-metalic switch, but I don't necessarily recommend
defeating the switch in this manner, since it really does
serve a purpose.
#51 of 411 chrysler town and country power window problem
Jun 03, 2007 (1:10 pm)
Probelm: chrysler town and country minivan power windows
Cause: There is an overcurrent limiter "fuse" inside the
window motor which goes out of range, getting too sensitive,
combined with increased demand from aging window hardware.
Chrysler, issue a recall! This is a severe and consistent
design defect which represents a potential safety hazard
in situations where windows have to be opened or closed.
The overcurrent protector is flawed and the motor brushes
are too soft, nearly guaranteeing a window system failure
even under extremely light use.
The solution is replace the bad "fuse" and to lube the
window hardware to decrease drag on the motor, and to
replace the bogus motor brushes if they're too worn. A lot
of people would have you purchase a completely new window
hardware (regulator) system, but this is completely unnecessary.
The fuse can be accessed by:
1. First remove door cover (this is hard since door covers
use cheap snap-mechanisms to attach which can break).
2. Remove inner door guard to provide access to motor
3. Loosen the 3 torque bolts holding motor to door enough
to get access to screws holding motor cover.
4. Remove the 2 screws holding motor cover, and remove
5. Remove armature taking care not to damage brushes.
6. Fuse plugs in to motor top just above the brushes.
Remove fuse and replace. (I crimped mine by clamping
really, really hard in a vice, but I DON'T recommend
this since the fuse serves a purpose.)
Also, CAREFULLY notching out a groove in the brushes and laying the braided wire into this grove will allow the
brushes to travel a little further, extending the life
of the motor slightly beyond the normal 3-4 years of light use.
#52 of 411 sliding doors won't work!
Jun 03, 2007 (3:57 pm)
WE JUST BOUGHT OUR 2001 T&C LXI , THE SLIDING DOOR WOULD NOT WORK AT FIRST SO I READ THROUGH THE MANUAL, THE CHILD SAFTY LOCKS WERE ON AND STOPING THE DOORS FROM WORKING, IT SAYS.. WELL I LOOKED AND YES THE CHILD SAFTY LOCK WAS ON, ON ONE SIDE. WELL, THAT DOOR CLOSED WHEN I PUSHED THE LITTLE BUTTON.I THOUHGT.. WOW I FIXED IT FOR MY HUSBAND! NOPE... IT IS STILL DOING THE SAME THING , MAKING NOISE BUT NOT OPENING, SAME WITH THE LIFTGATE. EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE IT WILL WORK ON PASSENGER SIDE, NEVER ON DRIVERS.. HOW DO WE FIX THIS? PLEASE ...PLEASE...HELP ME!
#53 of 411 '93 Voyager & '96 T&C
Jun 16, 2007 (1:10 pm)
I bought a '93 Voyager 65K miles, and used it *hard* for 5 years. I had a heavy duty hitch and towed a 2 ton trailer more than 20 times from Nashville to Knoxville, TN at 75 to 85 mph with no significant problems (one trip in 100 degree weather with constant A/C use, the trans overheated, and I changed the oil and kept driving). I killed the trans on a farm using the van to haul a manure spreader with a 2 ton load. The spreader has a cam on the drive wheel to work the unload chains, and this cam jerks the hitch back and forth constantly. Not thinking too clearly, I beat the trans to death with this fore and aft jerking. I had the trans rebuilt. THIS IS A MISTAKE! The housing journals were toasted, and the rebuilt trans died very shortly. I got a Jasper rebuilt trans ($2000 installed) which lasted until I sold the van with 230K miles. Good, hard-working van.
I bought a T&C 2 years ago with 170K miles from a friend. I put about 30K miles on it with no problems.
Last month I was rear ended by a GMC 1T pickup doing 60mph to my 15mph. Van is totaled. PROBLEM: The driver seat back collapsed with the rear impact. Since I had no support, I was yanked backward enough that my weight bent the upper part of the steering wheel about 6 inches backward. The impact over-extended my elbows, sprained my wrists and shoulders, and exacerbated the arthritis pain in my neck and lower back (I am 70 years old, but in good shape). Question: Is there a history of broken driver seat backs in Chrysler products? Good van to the end, but that seat problem is causing a lot of grief.
#54 of 411 Re: chrysler town and country power window problem [jmoose3]
Jun 24, 2007 (2:24 pm)
Any idea where to get replacement fuses? Or do you know the rating of these fuses? Mine have the number 104M on the part. Searched on the net but no luck yet.