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Wagons Volvo V70 Volvo V70 Maintenance & Repair Volvo V70 Engine Issues
79 messages, Last post on Oct 07, 2009 at 7:34 AM
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Replying to: jim314 (Aug 04, 2008 8:43 am)
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Replying to: nicholasb (Aug 04, 2008 9:05 am) Of course, you are overdue on the timing belt change, and that should be attended to ASAP. I understand that this is an interference engine, so that if the timing belt would break, some valves and pistons would collide, resulting in a major repair of thousands of dollars. |
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Replying to: jim314 (Aug 04, 2008 9:51 am) |
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Replying to: nicholasb (Aug 04, 2008 10:33 am) However, more knowledgeable people might be of the opinion that an engine flush would be the right thing, and know what flush to use. I know the timing belt change isn't cheap. On my last car (Dodge Spirit) the usual procedure was to change the water pump at the same time to save labor charges. I presume that the service records don't show that the water pump on your V70 has already been changed. Maintaining any car isn't cheap, and Volvos are more expensive than US made "value" vehicles, but less than some others. I decided to get out the manual on my 2004 V70 2.4L 168 hp base model non-turbo, and I am sorta surprised at the oil recommendations. For the past few years I have used Mobile1 10W-30 Extended performance, and left in in for 1-year which was always less than 12,000 miles. I decided that with a synthetic oil 40-wt would be unnecessary even in the Dallas TX USA climate, and might give lower highway mpg. The only justification for 40-wt I can figure is that Volvo is allowing for the possibility that standard dino oil in a hot climate with hard use could lose viscosity before the 7500 mile change interval is reached. Or maybe they think that some of their clientele will want to use 40-wt and Volvo are giving them "permission." Or maybe a 2.4L driven hard in a hot climate develops local hot spots than benefit from 40-wt. 2004 V70 Manual Page 137: SAE 5W/30 from below -30F to 86F (30C) SAE 5W/40 from below -30F to 104F (40C) SAE 10W/30 from -20F to 104F (40C). I use 10W/30 because I want to get the best highway mpg I can and I want to have the longest oil change interval and I think 10W30 will "last longer" than 5W30. Lightly loaded and clean (nothing on roof) I habitually get well over 30 mpgUS (36 mpgUK or 7.8 L/100km) even at 75-80 mph. (75 mpg is a common legal limit on I-40 in New Mexico and Arizona; one stretch of I-10 in west Texas has an 80 mph legal limit. Last the winter I got 34 mpgUS for 700 miles across Arizona and New Mexico on I-40. No hypermiling, just steady driving.) Another possible choice is Mobile1 0W-40 "European Car Formula" which is one of the recommended oils in my wife's 2007 XC90 3.2. A "0W-__" oil should give better protection during the frequent warmup periods of urban short trip use. In a thermostatted engine I cannot see why even very hot ambient temperature should nesessitate using an oil with a higher upper viscosity number, unless the car is being driven at the edge of what the cooling system can handle.
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Replying to: jim314 (Aug 04, 2008 1:52 pm) |
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Replying to: jim314 (Aug 04, 2008 1:52 pm) |
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Replying to: jim314 (Aug 04, 2008 1:52 pm) |
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| Don't know if anyone can help here, I am trying to find out if the cambelt has been changed and there is no record in full service hastory, there is a sticker on the cambelt cover with a part number and serial number but no date. Does this sound like it has been done. 114,00 miles on the clock. | |
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I need help with a major problem. Before I met her, my wife bought a 2000 V70. She was an Army spouse and bought the US-spec car while in Germany. It has burned a significant amount of oil since new....up to a quart every 500 miles. German Volvo mechanics checked it out several times a declared it "normal". About 2 years ago (since we have met), the car burnt a valve. $3,000 later, the valve was repaired...the car was still burning lots of oil and noone could tell us why, or what caused the valve failure. Last November, another cylinder lost all compression. We parked the car, hoping for a good used, or rebuilt engine. Since we now live in the UK, this did not happen. We decided to repair the valve. Turns out both exhaust valves in a separate cylinder were burnt..one very badly. We had them replaced and the rest of the valves refaced (different garage this time). Now it is burning even more oil than ever. The car has 120,000 miles on it. Anybody had this experience? |
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| can anyone tell me what is the normal lenght of time to replace a intake manifold gasket on a1004 Volvo 850. I had this done at the dealer and they charged me for 4 hours of labor | |
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