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Volvo V70 Engine Issues

79 messages,  Last post on Oct 07, 2009 at 7:34 AM

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What is this discussion about? Volvo V70, Volvo V70 R, Engine, Wagon

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#31 of 79 2001 Volvo V70 "Stop Engine-No Oil Pressure" Light by volvodale Jan 14, 2008 (5:48 pm)
Got this warning light and went to the Volvo dealer. Told me knock sensor codes showed (ECM 3410 ECM 3420).   Found severe oil sludge build-up at oil filter when performing routine oil change (had it changed 3000 miles earlier with no problem).   The service rep told me I had 2 choices:   1) Remove the sump and check for amount of sludge in bottom of engine adn clean ($700-$1000)   2) Replace the engine.(current engine has 78k)   I drove tghe car home and warning lights did not go on.   Any thoughts on the problem? Is it worth removng the "sump' and cleaning it? SHould I chekc with another repari shop? Replies to this message: webbie2 (Jan 23, 2008 6:16 am) jim314 (Jan 24, 2008 12:18 pm)
#32 of 79 Re: 2001 Volvo V70 "Stop Engine-No Oil Pressure" Light [volvodale] by webbie2 Jan 23, 2008 (6:16 am)
Replying to: volvodale (Jan 14, 2008 5:48 pm) YES! Have the oil pan removed and get the sump cleaned out. We had the exact same issue with our 2001 V70, but chose to ignore it and got stuck on an extended trip from Florida to Tennessee. Luckily, our mechanic here found a Volvo mechanic in NC who took care of us. The amount of junk in the sump was staggering. You do not need a new engine, however. Cleaning the sump and oil pan should take care of the problem. Good luck! Replies to this message: jim314 (Jan 24, 2008 12:18 pm)
#33 of 79 Re: 2001 Volvo V70 "Stop Engine-No Oil Pressure" Light [webbie2] by jim314 Jan 24, 2008 (12:18 pm)
Replying to: webbie2 (Jan 23, 2008 6:16 am) It seems to me that you should also immediately change to full synthetic oil: Mobile1 10W-30 or Mobile1 10W-30 Extended Performance. The sudden appearance of sludge may indicate that the emissions control system is allowing combustion by-products to get into the oil where it cooks the dino oil into sludge.   This suggests that you should get the crankcase ventilation system checked. If this model still has the troublesome flame trap design, then change the flame trap (a little perforated plastic disc). This is a very simple maintenance item which I changed myself on my wife's 1996 850 Wagon (855). But it wasn't plugged perhaps because I had for years used Mobile1 10W-30.   In fact you might be able to empty the oil and change to full synthetic without dropping the pan. You might be able to flush the sump with the oil drain plug out by pouring some oil down the dip stick tube and seeing if it forces sludge out the drain hole. Alternatively, you could possibly evacuate sludge from the bottom of the pan with one of those oil evacuation devices which is inserted in the dipstick tube.   But the safer route is probably to drop the pan and clean out the pan and oil pump pickup, then change to Mobile1 which is much more resistant than dino oil is to sludge formation. Mobile1 is $5 to $7 per quart depending on source but I think it is worth it.
#34 of 79 Radiator replacement questions by darkmind Feb 10, 2008 (10:45 am)
I recently purchased a 1998 v70 awd. I have a coolant leak that looks like it is coming from the transmission cooler line just below the top radiator hose. I was told i needed a new radiator. I am thinking about replacing the the radiator, top and bottom radiator hoses, and the transmission cooler lines. It looks like there are 4 of these lines total , 2 on each side. It also looks like there are oil leaks coming from where they mount at the opposite end of the radiator. I am debating tackling this job myself . I have a Chiltons manual that has a pretty good description of how to change the radiator but im wondering about those transmission cooler lines. Anything i should know before i tackle this myself ? Thanks in advance.
#35 of 79 Re: V70 loss of power or stalls. [atxfirefighter] by rellim1 Feb 11, 2008 (11:24 am)
Replying to: atxfirefighter (Jan 29, 2007 1:42 pm) I just purchased an '01 V70, used, and am having the same problem. Have you found anything out yet? Our car runs great until we slow down, like for a stoplight, then it will stall. It loses power - dash lights dim, then it stalls. It has started up right away after, but yeah, I have been left motionless in the the middle of the road. We took it in to a shop by us and they could find nothing wrong. Every time they drove it, it didn't stall. Anything you, or anyone else, can tell me I would really appreciate. Thanks.
#36 of 79 Re: V70 loss of power or stalls. [atxfirefighter] by olie Feb 11, 2008 (12:32 pm)
I recently had the problem fixed. The way the mechanic explained it was the distributor was going bad. The points were all corroded and the wires were bad. So we had the mechanic replace everything for about $800 dollars. It was kind of steep, but what do you do. I hope this helps. Replies to this message: rellim1 (Feb 11, 2008 4:20 pm)
#37 of 79 Re: V70 loss of power or stalls. [olie] by rellim1 Feb 11, 2008 (4:20 pm)
Replying to: olie (Feb 11, 2008 12:32 pm) Thanks, that helps a lot. I realy hope it's something a lot cheaper than that, but I kind of have that feeling...
#38 of 79 loses power and then stops by paula11 Mar 19, 2008 (9:21 pm)
My car runs great, but sometimes, he starts to lose power and dies.   For him not to die completly, I press the pedal (very hard) and he runs a little bit and finnaly stops. All dash lights dim. I can start the car immediatly, but he as no power.   One thing I noticed these last days...I feel the car more heavy than normal.   Anybody as any idea what the problem is?   I live in a new building and unfortunatly I park my car in the wrong place. They tow my car, without using a flat bed. The volvo cross country needs to be tow only in flat bed. Do this people damage something or this is just a coincidence? Replies to this message: jim314 (Mar 19, 2008 10:51 pm) rellim1 (Mar 20, 2008 7:55 am) jim314 (Mar 20, 2008 9:10 am)
#39 of 79 Re: loses power and then stops [paula11] by jim314 Mar 19, 2008 (10:51 pm)
Replying to: paula11 (Mar 19, 2008 9:21 pm) Towing the car without a flat-bed should not cause any engine malfunction. Even if they used an old-fashioned wrecker that raised one end of the car, they probably used a dolly under the end of the car that was trailing. If the car was locked, the gear selector was in Park and the parking brake set was set, then almost certainly they used a dolly to allow the wrecker to pull the car any distance on pavement. If they got inside the car, then they would have released the parking brake and towed with the front end raised.   Take the car to a mechanic for the engine malfunction, this is an unacceptable and unsafe condition.

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