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Volvo V70 Engine Issues

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What is this discussion about? Volvo V70, Volvo V70 R, Engine, Wagon

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#20 of 79 V70 loss of power or stalls. by atxfirefighter Jan 29, 2007 (1:42 pm)
We have an 2001 V70 with an ongoing problem. While driving our V70 will suddenly lose all power or, on rare occasion, stall. The Volvo helpline advised us to remove the gas cap for 10 seconds, then reinstall it tightly. This does fix the problem, but we are often left in a dangerous situation because there is no warning prior to failure. Help!!! does anyone know what needs to be replaced to fix this problem? Replies to this message: rellim1 (Feb 11, 2008 11:24 am)
#21 of 79 Re: Regular vs. Premium [dawgz83944] by hollymitzi Mar 06, 2007 (10:00 am)
Replying to: dawgz83944 (Nov 22, 2006 10:04 pm) I have a volvo 960 and it stalls every now and then and smells like gasoline inside the car once in while too. Does your volvo still stall? Did you fix the problem. Please help   mitzi
#22 of 79 Stalling issue by skeeter03 Apr 06, 2007 (6:09 am)
I have never heard of a gas cap causing a stalling issue. Have them monitor the mass air flow sensor, if it is around 14-18 kgh it is fine. higher could indicate a problem(unless a/c is on). Also, have them check for recall 155, this is covered under warranty and pertains exactly to what you are talking about. Volvo is aware of this and has extended the warranty to 10 years and 200,000 miles on the throttle body.
#24 of 79 Engine oil by jim314 Oct 16, 2007 (4:54 pm)
I've been using Mobile 10W-30 extended performance in my 2004 V70 with NA 2.4L 168 hp and changing at 7500 to 10,000 mile intervals. I'm thinking about changing to one of the Amsoil 10W-30 products*. Any comments?   I don't need the 25,000 mile change interval oil because I'm not putting that many miles on it in a year.   *"XL SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil API certified Extended Drain Intervals   Specifically designed for extended drain intervals beyond 3,000 miles as established by vehicle manufacturers such as Honda (10,000 miles in certain vehicles) and for those vehicles equipped with oil monitoring devices. Standard drain interval recommendation is 7500 miles where the vehicle manufacturer does not specify extended drain intervals. Product Code: XLT"
#25 of 79 Re: Regular vs. Premium [dawgz83944] by jim314 Oct 17, 2007 (5:32 am)
Replying to: dawgz83944 (Nov 22, 2006 10:04 pm) Thanks for pointing out my error of attributing the knock potential to the compression ratio rather than to the absolute pressure inside the cylinders during the compression stroke.   Due to forced air induction a turbo- or supercharged engine can have a significantly higher absolute pressure of the air-fuel mixture than a NA engine even though the latter nowadays usually has a higher compression ratio. I got my 2004 V70 as a hand-me-down and it replaced a 1991 Dodge Spirit with NA 2.5L, 8-valve, single OHC, 4-cyl rated at 100 hp! That engine had an about 9:1 CR and used US regular 87 AKI gasoline. I don't know if it had a knock sensor or not.   Suppose you did fuel the Volvo 2.4L NA 168hp 5-cyl (CR 10.3:1) with AKI 87. Under what conditions would the knock sensing and engine control system be retarding the timing to prevent knocking?
#26 of 79 camshaft reset valve? by sheraotwp Dec 11, 2007 (10:51 am)
a few weeks ago the Volvo dealer checkd the 'check engine' light-code was for cam reset valve. I was told its ok to drive it until I got around to fixing it, no worries, won't damage anything. last night I had it towed, after the light flashed on/off and the message said "do not drive/get immediate service". the engine felt sluggish (though not sputtering) and vibrated until I could pull over 1 mile later. an off-duty mechanic thought it might be the 'cam reset sensor' (w/o even knowing this history). Is it likely the same problem that volvo said? if so, why did they not warn me this could happen?!! is there now damage b/c I've been driving it for weeks? if so, shame on you, Dealership! the T-belt also needs replacing (150k) which I planned to do next week! so I should get both done, if it is the cam valve. car is now sitting at Volvo waiting for diagnosis. I am worried that they will take advantage-I'm a their mercy now! what are the likely/potential causes and fixes? I don't want them to replace this valve if its not the prob. it sounds expensive. thank you for any help!!
#27 of 79 Volvo V70 starting issues by olie Dec 15, 2007 (11:51 am)
Hey I have a 1998 Volvo v70. It is just a normal v70(not a turbo or T5) My problems are over starting issues. I am a college student, so when I leave my car to sit for a period of time from couple of weeks to a month, it will not start. It is not a problem of turning over, the starter cranks it over perfectly. I usually try to start it for a about a minute or so. I stop for of ruining the starter or draining the battery. After getting frustrated I let it sit. When I come back to start it again it will either repeat, or it will start. It depends on how long it has been sitting. The crazy thing is, I can always get it to start after a while of "fussing" with it. When I finally get it started, it will idol properly but when I give it gas, it sputters and dies. After a few tries at this, it will start to stay on when I give it gas. So I take it around the block (driving it very hard) and all the problems are over. Once I get it running properly again, all is fine. I can drive for as long as I want with no problems. As far as day to day, it will always start with no problems. I have taken it to a Volvo specialist in Bellingham, Washington and had no results. They say it is fine. So if anyone has had this problem or knows what might be the problem, I would appreciate your incite. Thanks
#29 of 79 turns over, won't spark by jjgaitan Dec 30, 2007 (12:12 pm)
1998 Volvo V70 XC AWD 2.4L, 5 cyl.   I recently pulled the engine and transmission in order to replace old seals and gaskets. The car has 225,000 miles and was leaking everywhere, but other than that, the car was running fine. I put the engine back in, and the car turns over strongly, but won’t fire. There is no spark getting to the plugs so I checked the distributor wire coming from the coil. There was no spark either. I have checked the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft positioning sensor. Both check out good. I checked all fuses to make sure none were burnt. All good. I double checked all connectors to all sensors and cleaned them with connector cleaner to ensure good contact. I double checked the timing and alignment marks and even put a compression tool in the number 1 cylinder to make sure that it is on top dead center. There are no codes although I am using a regular code reader not specifically for Volvo's. I have hit rock bottom. Any help on why I am getting no spark? I really need this car to run. Jacob

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