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Villager/Quest Knock Sensor

75 messages,  Last post on Oct 25, 2009 at 6:23 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mercury Villager, Auto Repair, Electrical, Engine, Fuel System, Van

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#56 of 75 okay by bobh3625 May 16, 2008 (8:58 pm)
had a mechanic change the TPS Van ran good for one week and than started doing the same thing.....racing engine, downshifting etc....so not good today the check engine light came on and stayed on than a while later after shutting van off the light was off so what would be the next step here ty bob Replies to this message: efitzgerald (May 20, 2008 4:48 am)
#57 of 75 next step by graham66 May 19, 2008 (5:01 am)
Bob, One thing you may want to check it to verify all of the Grounds from your battery look good. One other person on this forum have a loose ground connection that was causing some problems ,,, See if there is a stored code....   Now I think it might be time to go to a Nissan Dealer...Maybe go and tell them the very specific problem and see if they have any suggestions. Give them as much deteiled information that you can get.. EX, Van runs good until warm.... ETC See if they have a set price on doing the diagnostics....And again, the Knock sensor code is usually a result of something else causing the engine to run bad and to cause it to knock...The component replacement guessing game gets to be frustrating. Sorry the TPS sensor was not the home run, but I think it was the most logical try with the problems you described.   Right now I have a similar problem with my van, I'm kind of stuck because It is not currently on the road, was going to be a third vehicle for my teenager, and needs brakes. I do not want to put all of the brakes on until I find the problem with the engine. My nearest Nissan dealer is over 30 miles away The problem I have is whe the van first runs. it runs great.. if I run it for about 1 hour, it shuts off, and then will not start, runs very rough, like the timing is not good, Check engine light is on... After it cools down the check engine light is gone, and it runs fine again. Pulled codes I think one was the knock sensor.... The other was Ignition, problem...... Can't remember the exact code. I just purchased a third vehicle and the Van it too good to just junk.... and I will not sell it to someone else knowing it has a problem with running after it is warm....SO right now It just parked until I have the time and patience to go at it again.   So if you do end up going to the Nissan dealer or figure this out, Please post any solutions. I will pick up on trying to solve my problem this week. My next step was to verify all of the grounds were ok. Some of the things I have done.... Replaced the battery, because the other one went bad..had to jump sart van. Not sure if the jump start or new battery has caused something else to fail?? Right after that got some driveability problems. Isolated those problems to a bad distributor, Replaced that along with the module in front of the distributor. This seemed to have solved all of my problems....Van was still sitting, waiting for the brake job and teen to get liscence. Now van tuns very good when it is cold, and still runs good when at operating temp.....ocassionally will shut off after running for several hours.... When I restart.. it runs rough, and Since it has no brakes on it. my guess is it would buck and sputter if i tried to drive it. The problem I have is definely Heat related...my guess is I will eventually find a simple fuseable link, or another simple component that is causing all of this. The problem for me is it goes away once the van starts to cool down....Defintely needs to be hooked to a scanner when it happens.    Our problems may not be the same, but if you are able to solve it it may help me to isolate a component too.
#58 of 75 Re: okay [bobh3625] by efitzgerald May 20, 2008 (4:48 am)
Replying to: bobh3625 (May 16, 2008 8:58 pm) I have a sneaky suspicion that it is your distributor. These distrutors cause a lot of strange symptoms, such as knocksensor codes, ecm concerns, transmissions causes, rpm dancing, . Do yourself a favor and pay a tech at the nissan dealer for a diagnostic, do not go to the ford dealer, as they dont understand the problem, its not a ford engine. If it is your distributor, get a used one from the wreckers as a new one is about 600 bucks plus labour. HOPE THIS HELPS.
#59 of 75 Replace distributor by graham66 May 20, 2008 (5:26 am)
I got a rebuilt distrubutor from Ebay.... $ 105 warented for 1 year. No core charge, I can look for the vendor I think his name is Partsbookie out of california..... If I junk my van I will be selling this part.... If you live in upstate NY, You can try the one I have !!!!!!
#60 of 75 Re: 1999 Villager LOOSING Power [sickandtired] by villagerdriver Aug 11, 2008 (12:24 pm)
Replying to: sickandtired (Oct 30, 2006 2:38 pm) I recently had a similar problem w/ my 2000 villager (lack of power up hills). I had the front CAT replaced. It was $1600 for the job. It seems to have fixed the problem.
#61 of 75 Re: 95 Villager.....Water leaks on passenger floor!! [smilingsandy] by tangster1 Aug 22, 2008 (6:37 am)
Replying to: smilingsandy (Jan 26, 2008 9:33 pm) I have a 1996 villager and it slosh back and forth when I turn. Water came into the passenger floor on a hard brake. I removed the black cover right under the wipers. It exposed a well from the engine and the dash board. I could see the dirty rain water in the well. wear a glove and put your hand in the left of the well and clean out the leaves and goop it built up through the years. All you have to do is push it down through a hole in the well for the purpose of draining rain water. Once the hole is cleared, the water in the well will drain. Water went into the passenger side is because it has a opening on top of the well. Why, I don't know. It took about 30 minutes and all you need is a screw driver.
#62 of 75 1995 Quest GXE Ignition by dsoltero Mar 02, 2009 (9:26 am)
Anyone have the rod that is attached from your IGNITION CYLINDER KEY LOCK to the IGNITION SWITCH break in half. The dealer here in Vegas has to call the Manufactuer for the price & part# Anyone know how to install it (I'm thinking thru STEERING WHEEL)
#63 of 75 knock sensor by amyhall Mar 18, 2009 (11:40 am)
i have a 2001 mercury villager, runs great but for awhile now its been stalling when warmed up,or going to stop, even in neutrol it stalls, no engine lights come on. fine when cold,diaystics came up with 2 error codes 1. knock sensor 2. buzz trans line. does any body have any ideas if its really the knock sensor? Replies to this message: steve_ (Mar 18, 2009 12:08 pm) ckent724 (Mar 18, 2009 6:12 pm)
#64 of 75 Re: knock sensor [amyhall] by steve_ HOST Mar 18, 2009 (12:08 pm)
Replying to: amyhall (Mar 18, 2009 11:40 am) It's not much of a data point, but when the knock sensor went on my '99 Quest, my check engine light came on. It ran ragged too, but wouldn't quite stall out. I wound up replacing it and 3 injectors. Not a cheap fix either - the knock sensor is buried pretty good and takes a lot of labor to get to it.
#65 of 75 Re: knock sensor [amyhall] by ckent724 Mar 18, 2009 (6:12 pm)
Replying to: amyhall (Mar 18, 2009 11:40 am) ignore the knock sensor code... That code is appearing because of the detonation in the engine as it begins to shutter and stall. the knock sensor monitors the engine for any detonations. If a detonation occurs the knock sensor sends a code to the computer. Also when the knock sensor recognizes a detonation and sends a signal to the computer, the computer will then try to adjust timing, etc...Need more info on the "buzz trans line" never heard of that before...Do you have the actual codes? Need more info...

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