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Vans & Minivans Nissan Quest Villager/Quest Knock Sensor
75 messages, Last post on Oct 25, 2009 at 6:23 PM
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Replying to: warfalini (Jun 18, 2007 4:33 am)
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Replying to: tester1 (Aug 19, 2007 8:27 pm) |
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Hello all, I have a 1997 Villager with 130K on it. The van has been running fine until two days ago. I went out to start it and it spits, sputters, backfires and dies. Let me explain more. I turn the ignition key on and can here the fuel pump run for around 5 seconds (normal). I start the engine and it idles perfectly for about 5 to 8 seconds. It then starts to die off. Pressing the gas pedal only causes it to rev slightly and then it starts to spit and sputter and backfire and dies. If I start it and hold the gas pedal down it will rev up and then the rpms just drop off no matter how far I hold the pedal down. My brother-in-law-to-be came over and we pulled the knock sensor code by way of the flashing check engine code. (The check engine light never came on before this happened) After getting a Haynes book and following the testing procedure of tapping on the manifold and testing voltage change, it seems to be working but I cannot get and Ohm reading on it????  I have replaced the spark plug, distrib cap and rotor to no avail.  Fuel pump replaced less than a year ago.  I also checked the Power Transistor (as the Haynes Book calls it)following the diagrams they provided. I calls for continuity between terminal A and B and no continuity between A and C. Well, I get no continuity between A and B or A and C but I get continuity between A and C.  I hope this is not a boring read but I want to give as much information as I know.  Can anyone lead me in any direction????
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Replying to: dgeese (Aug 27, 2007 6:00 am) Did you ever figure this one out. I have a 95 murcury villager with a similar problem. The van runs great for 15-20 minutes, then when it is warm has no power, barely runs..... The problem started after I needed to jupstart the van, and then replace the battery. I have verified the following FUel pump and delivery is good. Checked the Spark at each plug,,,, all good, even when its running bad.( Still can be a timing problem.) Eliminated the catalytic converter, Thought the TPS was faulting took it off measured all of that, all checks ok, but on the van the voltage measurements don't match the Haynes book. So this might get replaced. and I am measuring the Power Transistor. I get the opposite results of what the Hayes manual says too. Positive terminal of Ohm meter to A and negative terminal of meter to Pin B I get an open circuit. Attach the negative probe to to teminal A and the positive terminal to C and I get a reading.... Reverse the leads on last test and I do not get a reading, So i think there is some type of diode, that is in there that makes a difference in what terminal you probe with your meter neg or pos. Since my measurements did not match the Hayes book, I was pretty sure that this power transitor was failing. So I plan on getting a new one. But when I see that you question the Haynes book. I wonder if it is even bad. I guess when I get it I will carefully measure the new one and compare it to the old..... The Hayes book might not be correct?? I saw another dicussion around grounding of the PCM.... May try that this weekend.
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Replying to: graham66 (Oct 04, 2007 5:30 am)
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Replying to: efitzgerald (Oct 09, 2007 5:44 am) Thanks for the response, I think this is my last effort to fix this problem. I do most of my own mechanical work and was not afraid to look into the insides of this distributor, I may not have dug deep enough, because the insides of what I saw were very clean, I got as deep as seeing the timing wheel with the 360 slots in it and wiped it with a tissue. a very small amount of black came off but not a lot of stuff. the screws on the sensor looked like they were filled in with epoxy, so I left them alone. . As I mentioned in my previous note. There are no codes being stored in the computer. I suspected the Ignition module because my resistance measurements did not match the Haynes book reference. The book is wrong.or I am interpreting it incorrectly. I have all of the measurements written down from the new module if anyone needs a reference.. where they mention there should be open circuit, it is not and where you should have conductivity, it is open... So I went out and bought a new ignition module....Before I put it in I did the same exact resistance measurement on the new module. The new module measured very close to the old one, I put it in anyway and restarted the van...It runs great until the engine compartment reaches operating temperature. I had a small can of freeze spray and began to spray individual modules to try to isolate this problem. Well I ran out of spray. So I was getting pretty frustrated and grabbed the garden hose..Now I do not recommend spraying a hot engine with a garden hose, I did manage to trickle cold water over individual parts. Luckily I started right at the distributor. I already had new wires, rotor and Cap, so I was not to worried about getting water on them. I removed the plastic dust cover from the distributor, While the van was running, trickled cold water, very slowly over the distibutor and kept teting the throttle, When warm it would idle ok but would not run smoothly over 2000 rpm..I cooled the distributor until I could feel that the aluminum base was cold to the touch. When in that state the van runs perfectly. I allowed it to warm up again and verified this at least 6 times. So in a round about way I think I have determined that this distributor needs replacing. I just ordered an brand new one from a company on EBAY for $105, I will repost all of this in another posting if this solves the problem. I am glad others have shared their experiences on these forums. I have learned a lot about this van. My regular mechanic did not have the scan tools and told me he did not want to work on it. I I think if I get this running I have saved a lot of money. If this new distributor solves it I will have less than $150 and about 20-40 hours invested. I will let everyone know how I make out once I get the new part Thanks for your interest.
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Replying to: graham66 (Oct 09, 2007 6:33 am)
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Replying to: efitzgerald (Oct 09, 2007 9:51 am) I should be getting the new distributor next week. If this does solve the problem, I will post a very detailed description of all of the steps I took to determine and fix this problem. Hopefully our comments here can save the next person a lot of trouble. I did read another forum that warned me of going to a FORD dealership... Nissan dealership was strongly suggested. If I get away with these repairs only costing me $150 I will be real happy since I see what this could have cost me. If this does not fix the problem, you will see may 95 Mercury Villager  parts for sale....Including a new distributor and ignition module. If this solves my problem all I have left is to replace the 2 rear brake lines... and the kid has a real cool 7 passenger family van to call his own. I will let you know as soon as I get the new parts installed. Thanks for sharing the infomation
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Replying to: graham66 (Oct 09, 2007 10:10 am) I will write up a detailed description of what I did and how I verified the bad distributor, by cooling it with water. I also want to point out that there may be a mistake in the Haynes Manual around the resistance measurement of the ignition module. I will get all of my facts straight and post it in a new thread. Thanks for participating in this forum.... all of this information led me to a much cheaper fix. |
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My CEL has been on for the past 6 months. Immediately after having the timing belt/water pump replaced the CEL came on. The codes returned were for the knock sensor and O2 sensor. I had the knock sensor and both front and rear O2 sensors replaced; the light came back on. Now the code that comes up is P1148 and an online search tells me this a "Closed Loop", but I can't find any more information than that. Any explanation of what this means (and what it is going to set me back) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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