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Vans & Minivans Nissan Quest Villager/Quest Knock Sensor
75 messages, Last post on Oct 25, 2009 at 6:23 PM
You are in the Nissan Quest Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Hello guys... I have a 99 Mercury Villager, and I read hundreds of posts about the knock sensor codes, but still could not get an answer to my question. Basically, my check engine light is on and I am getting error codes for a bad knock sebsor. The van is fine when its started, but within minutes you can feel intermittent puffs of exhaust at the tail pipe. I verified that all the spark plugs and injectors are good. The Hayes manual says that you can check the knock sensor by finding the KS sub-harness next to the intake manifold, but the manual only shows diagrams of the KS harness for models up to 1998. When I looked next to the manifold, there is a rectangular harness with several (about 40) wires going in one side and out the other. I am not sure if I am supposed to test the KS using the white white wire in that harness. Also, would I pierce the back end of the harness with a multipeter probe, or undo the harness, and connect to one of the ends? Do you think it's worth spending the $500 to have it replaced? Thanks a ton!! |
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Replying to: mlangali (Oct 29, 2006 12:27 pm) There's another test about disconnecting the EMC harness connector, finding terminal 64 and checking the resistance between it and ground, and look for a 500-620 KΩ on your ohmmeter. I'll see if I can find my scanner and post the manual pages on my CarSpace page. Steve, Host SUVs and Speed Shop
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I have a 1999 Villager w/200k miles. A great vehicle other than starting to loose power going up hills. I just changed fuel filters seems to help some. When accelerating slowly from a stop the van tends to lurch. I was told to check the catalytic converter. There appears to be the usual amount of exhaust. Any Suggestions?
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Replying to: steve_ (Oct 29, 2006 12:57 pm) Album: 1999 Quest repair info Steve, Host SUVs and Speed Shop
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Replying to: steve_ (Oct 30, 2006 9:23 pm) 1999 villager estate w/ 75K miles. recent major svc incl fuel filter, belts, battery, and air filters. Our check engine light is on. It came on intermittantly then stayed on. Opened gas cap and it went gurgle gurgle gurgle and the light went out. It came back on yesterday (all the same tank of gas) and the local service station checked the codes this am. They want 750 to replace the knock sensor. Should be get a 2nd opinion? Maybe a nissan/merc dealer? thanks k |
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Replying to: mlangali (Oct 29, 2006 12:27 pm) Our problems started when we had the engine changed out after the timing belt broke and trashed the original. I bought an OBD II computer to read the error codes and got knock sensor P0325 which will NOT trip the check engine light, and the occasional cylinder misfire P0360 which will. I looked at the manual to see how to change out the sensor, and found that it is a joke. You have to basicly take apart the top of your engine. To have a shop do it is tremendously expensive due to the man hours involved....Still..I would do it if I knew it would solve the problem. My understanding is that it probably won"t. Knock sensors themselves are very simple devices, basicly a microphone that hears the sounds of detonation, and then sends a small voltage to the ECM and retards the timing... Many things can 'set off' the knock sensor, and by the number of posts on this subject it is likely that we all have good sensors, and bad whatevers... I went to 4door.com and paid an expert 20 dollars for the information that some kind soul posted here by scanning the Manual...Thanks for that. I am going to trouble shoot the sensor circuit and see if the resistance and voltages are OK. I will tell you how this comes out. I will NOT replace the sensor, due to the high cost, until I know for sure that it is bad. As I have said, I suspect it is something else. |
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Replying to: mke039 (Nov 03, 2006 9:07 am) These are supposed to be non-interference engines; can you detail what happened and the mileage when your belt broke? Maybe we should move this to a timing belt discussion? thanks, Steve, Host SUVs and Speed Shop
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Replying to: steve_ (Nov 03, 2006 9:40 am) so i'll burn up some gas and see what happens. (and as an aside, the local service station crew charges us $73 for 'diagnostics and resetting codes) Guess we'll not be going back THERE in any hurry. |
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Hello guys... From all the advise I have gotten, after extensive research, I have decided that it's a better idea not to change the knock sensor. Along with the 500+ cost, you could have problems later on such as coolant leaks and overall engine issues since it is a pretty major surgery to the engine. Instead switch to premium gas, and have the codes erased. Also , make sure that all your injectors and plugs are good. You may just have a misfire due to a bad injector. Since the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to help the engine deal with low octane gas causing premature detonation, you may be able to get around the issue by using premium gas. hope this helps... And thanks to all of you...I didn't know any of this stuff a few weeks ago. Good luck... |
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I have a 1995 Villager. My radiator fan burned up causing some of the wires to melt. A new (after market) fan has been installed but since the repair, none of my power windows work. The work was done by a friend and we're both baffled. There was a previous post about this exact problem and he never received a response. I'm a rural mail carrier and I have to have working windows. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
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