Last post on Aug 04, 2013 at 2:32 PM
You are in the Hyundai Santa Fe
What is this discussion about?
Hyundai Santa Fe, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
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#1166 of 1181 Re: intermitten loss of acceleration [travel143]
Dec 20, 2012 (5:31 am)
It's that STUPID fly-by-wire accelerator pedal. Step on the pedal, wait 1/2 second, then the car goes. Bring back the MECHANICAL connection from pedal to throttle body.
#1167 of 1181 Re: intermitten loss of acceleration [travel143]
Dec 20, 2012 (1:39 pm)
Do you have an awd model? How.many miles does it have?
The other member is correct about the drive by wire system. Especially on 4 cyl modes, dbw is very pronounce delay between throttle and the pedal sensor. Its not.much u.can .really,, besides get a v6 where more low torque is available. Another.issue u have against u is.the transmision, their units are very reluctant to downshifts, they are gear for economy.
The curb weight of the santa fe is somewhere over 4700 lbs. For.a four.banger its a tall order to accomplish good of the line acceleration.
#1168 of 1181 Re: intermitten loss of acceleration [travel143]
Dec 21, 2012 (8:49 am)
For my car I had all the same issues and it took my dealer a year to figure out the problem, and I ended up calling Hyundai Canada to get satisfaction. They replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. I would start there and see if you get a fix that way. It should be covered under warranty.
#1169 of 1181 denied warranty coverage?
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Dec 26, 2012 (4:05 pm)
If you were recently denied auto warranty coverage for a surprising reason, please email PRedmunds.com no later than Wednesday, January 9, 2013 to tell your story to a reporter.
#1170 of 1181 Re: Intermitent lost of acceleration [tonyfash]
Dec 27, 2012 (2:40 am)
thanks for the reply but I am still unable to find solution to the problem. I have decided to record the problem on video and place it on youtube. I will be happy if someone can have a look and advise on what to do regarding the problem.
After starting the car starts to smoke. This is the smoking video..
#1171 of 1181 Re: Intermitent lost of acceleration [tonyfash]
Dec 27, 2012 (6:14 am)
You've got a blown head gasket or a blown intake gasket. I'd lean more toward the head gasket, however. Get it fixed right away!
You'll destroy your engine if you don't repair it ASAP!
#1172 of 1181 Re: Losing Power [pickyp]
Mar 06, 2013 (8:53 am)
I'm having the same trouble with my 6 month old 2012 Sante Fe, only 12,500 miles. It has been to the dealership 2x in 10 days and the only thing they've done is to reset the ECM, which has not resolved the issue. The first time I was driving about 45MPH the check engine light went on and within 2 minutes the car suddenly lost power, the accelerator would not work and I had to roll to the side of the road. The second time this happened I was driving around 60MPH and again suddenly dropped power and had to pull off the road. In both instances turning the car on and off about 2-3 times cleared the issue (though the check engine light stayed on for about a day following the incident). However, I was able to drive normally again.
As you can imagine losing acceleration without warning is extremely dangerous and I'm concerned the next time it happens I could have a tractor trailer truck plow right over me...! The dealership cannot recreate the incident and doesn't know what the issue is. It seems like a lot of people are experiencing this issue, I don't understand how the dealership cannot know what the cause may be.
PickyP, sea2sea, or anyone else with this problem: did you ever figure out what caused the issue, and how was it resolved?
#1173 of 1181 Re: Losing Power [dnm712]
Mar 06, 2013 (2:43 pm)
the situation you are experiencing is called (lymp mode) this condition occurs whenever the is a lost of connection between any of the systems that control engine rpm ( pedal sensor, throttle position sensor, map Sensor, if you have an AWD model, the all wheel drive coupler in the rear of the truck, ) this cars are equipped with a CAN Protocol ( control area network ) all systems in the car communicate with one another in other to provide safety ( ESC and ABS systems) engine management (fuel trim and timing) transmission logic (adaptive learning program) you need to have the dealer do a FREEZE FRAME CHECK on your onboard computer, to me personally I think its your Throttle position sensor that's defective, remember this car has a drive by wire system, hope this helps.
#1174 of 1181 Rear Combination Light Bulb
May 21, 2013 (4:33 pm)
Dealer says "both rear marker lights are out". I checked and they are out when headlight are on. Brake and turn signaI lights work. I am concerned that both "markers" are out for reasons other that worn out bulb. Owner's Manual tells how to replace bulb, and I want to do that myself, but no info on which bulb(s) to buy. Only non-Hyundai electrical on Santa Fe is trailer wiring harness , which is working fine, or so I observe. Dealer wants $56 to replace both bulbs. Any advice on this will be much appreciated.
#1175 of 1181 Re: Fuel Sender Units [LS37]
Jun 11, 2013 (10:53 pm)
Yes,same car,been there, done that. It was a royal pain.The floats move a wiper that is several little spring wires ,like a little brush that ride over contacts on a printed circuit board. They wear out and break off and you get flakey gas gauge readings. There is one on the left mounted on the fuel pump and one on the right called the remote sender. they're wired in series so you end up pulling both to see which one is bad. The brush is part of the float arm pivot and snaps right off but not available separately;they make you buy the whole float and sensor assembly for almost $100. Left and right are different part numbers. To get the senders out you need a ring removal tool made by OTC that goes for $60 and even more from 2 other brands that OTC's parent company,SPX owns. This tool also fits various GM, Mopar and others. You have to pull the back seat that is screwed to the floor with self tapping screws. When the screws come out metal from the floor is often in the threads. Clean the bolts and run a thread cleaning tap ,not a cutting tap through the holes before reinstalling the seat or it can get nasty. Guess how I know. You also need a fuel line disconnect tool when you're playing in gas to get the senders out. After you flip back the rug access flaps there is a plate over hole in the floor stuck down with putty. Pry off and they will stick back down when finished-no problem. The job is not brain surgery but it is time consuming,expensive and messy. I think I'd want $500 to do it.