Last post on Nov 12, 2013 at 8:24 PM
You are in the Ford Aerostar
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Ford Aerostar, Electrical, Van
#26 of 49 Re: Dead Electrical system [jadedgeek]
Dec 16, 2007 (1:00 am)
when you replaced the starter,did you replace the starter solenoid?
-and if you did,have you left any of the smaller wires off?>..
if this is not the case,it sounds like the fusable link..from the battery side of the solenoid-follow the -pos- (+) post of the battery to where it bolts to a thingy on the side of the engine compartment..this is the starter solenoid..
you will need a 12 volt circut tester..test the curcit tester by clipping the wire end to the ground(-)post on the batt..
there should be two small wires,along with the battery cable
-using the pointy end of the tester,pierce through the rubber coating-trying to hit the wire underneath,and see if your tester lights up--if not-pull on this wire--if the fusable link is ok,you shouldn't be able to pull it apart easily..if the wire is burnt through,the only thing holding it would be the rubber insulation..if this is the problem,go to the parts store-a REAL one,and tell them you need a piece of fusable link..use crimp connectors,or-fix it right by soldering and shrink tube--andVUIOLA!!..it should be fixed!!..good luck!!
#27 of 49 Headlights
Feb 22, 2008 (8:21 am)
1993 aerostar. The headlights have decided to have a mind of their own. They will shut off suddenly for a few seconds and then come back on. Both on low and high beam. I drove for 1/2 hour no problem then multiple times over the next 15 miles. Never had a problem before now almost all of time. The dash lights are fine. Is this a dimmer switch problem or is there another componet that might be overheating or something?
#28 of 49 Re: Turn signals, blower, defogger not working
Feb 29, 2008 (9:26 am)
After weeks of winter having the heater's blower working most of the time, but not when we really wanted it, I tried pulling the multi-switch on the top/left side of the steering column, as was suggested in another post. The poster said this multi switch could be taken apart once removed, and the contacts within it cleaned. I got the switch off, but did not have the smaller star bit required to open the switch, so I just shot it full of WD-40 and tapped and wiggled the switches on it and reinstalled it.
Since then (4 days) we've not had a single failure of the heater/turn signals/defogger that had been a regular occurance. I'd say it was definitely that multi switch. Our local parts store has the switch for about $75. I think I'll leave ours in place to see if it really goes out, then spend the $75 for a new one.
#29 of 49 ?? Location of [electric] door lock relay ??
Mar 26, 2008 (2:35 pm)
'92 Aerostar XLT: Both front door switches will activate the 'unlock' function, but neither will activate the 'lock' function. Since I had to repair an electric window problem, I decided to tackle the annoying door lock issue. I sliced some insulation off the Pink/O & Pink/B wires and introduced a cheater battery to test the operation of the solenoid. (For some reason my Haynes manual identifies that solenoid as a 'motor' ?!?!). It behaved just as it should have as I switched polarity back and forth.
I note in the Haynes wiring diagram for the door lock circuit that a "lock relay" (as well as an "unlock" relay) lies in the circuit between the incoming 'hot' and the switch. BTW, the switch tests good. I want to check that 'lock' relay, but I'd rather not have to pull out the entire dash to track it down. Not surprisingly, the little owners manual that came with the van was no help. WHERE should I look for that relay, and how can I positively identify it? Oh. And while you're at it, could you wash my car?
#30 of 49 Re: Turn signals, blower, defogger not working [jfromm]
Mar 26, 2008 (2:41 pm)
You can save a buncha $$ by purchasing a small set of Torx drivers. Some years back I got a set of 5: T30, T25, T20, T15, T10 for ~ $10-15. Money well spent.
#31 of 49 erratic starts
Apr 11, 2008 (2:27 pm)
my mother inlaw tries to start the van and sometimes it just cranks andsomtimes it starts its not somthing the local mech. apparently can find. they live in mcallen tx. i live in il. or i would be fixen it by hit and miss like thier mech is doin ,i would be cheaper. theyve changed the fuel filter and the connector on the dash (?) for the ign. but nothing helps i keep sug. they change the nuetral safty switch and my mother inlaw states they did this.every nuetral safty switch ive seen has been on the linkage or on the trans. by the way she is 86 and her husband is 89.he is pretty bo. and they need thier van any and all sug. would be app. except the obvious they wont get rid of it.ha ha
#32 of 49 Re: erratic starts [grummpy]
Apr 11, 2008 (11:43 pm)
Have yoiur MIL do a simple test. Next time she wants to start her Aerostar (especially it's been sitting a day or two), have her just turn the ignition key "ON", and give it about 30 seconds in the "ON" position before she engages the starter. If after the delay it starts right up then chances are the fuel pump (inside the tank) is on its last legs. If the pump's diaphragm has developed "fatigue cracks", those cracks might allow the gasoline in the line to seep back down into the tank. The longer the Van sits idle, the more completely evacuated the fuel line can become - and the longer it'll take to get gas pumped back up the engine where it can do some good.
#33 of 49 column clock spring
Apr 15, 2008 (9:32 am)
I've an 94 Aerostar where the horn, cruise control is not working and the airbag control light is very often on. An electrician stated that I've to change the column clock spring. Ford is charging more than $ 200 for this item, too much for such an old car.
I wasn't able to find it researching online the whole sales.
Does anybody have an idea where to purchase?
#34 of 49 Re: column clock spring [aerofan3]
Apr 16, 2008 (7:43 am)
The more common problem is not the clock spring itself but the "slip ring" and/or the slip ring brushes. Disconnect the battery, remove the airbag and then the stearing wheel and clean those brush contact points on the "slip ring".
You can sometimes verify "this" being the problem by turning the stearing wheel back and forth, widely, engine running, 15-20 times. That will often "clean" the contact area enough that those functions will work for a few drive cycles.
#35 of 49 Re: ?? Location of [electric] door lock relay ?? [jimmj43]
Apr 27, 2008 (4:19 pm)
I put door locks from a 88 areo in my 95 and I think they are by the drivers side kick panel but you simply operate the locks and listen and feel for the relay noise and vibration and the other relay is beside the one that works . good luck pete