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Chevy Express/GMC Savana Starting/Stalling Problems

47 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 6:12 AM
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Replying to: lmfh (Jan 05, 2008 3:05 pm) |
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| my company van would not start. few minutes later van started. took to nearest garage and noticed SECURITY light was on dash. garage owner said key and/or key ignition cylinder is worn so computer thinks i'm trying to steal van so computer cuts off fuel injectors. went to dealership but their computers were down so i could not get new key. took a chance with backup key. later that evening van would not start AT ALL and i was stranded. got tow back to house. later installed NEW ignition key cylinder AND NEW key cut from van VIN code from dealership. turned key to run position and let sit for at least 20 minutes so computer could re-calibrate to new key/cylinder. van starts up and runs fine. hope that helps! | |
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Replying to: vhazel (Sep 25, 2006 4:01 am) |
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| I have a '99 Savana 4.3 with a fuel pump that works intermittently. When it works, it pumps like a fire truck, but most of the time it's dead. My fuel gauge corresponds to the fuel pump. If my gauge is working, so does the fuel pump. If the gauge doesn't come off "E", the fuel pump doesn't work. Generally, after sitting, the gauge/pump combo is more likely to work. I would like to condemn the in-tank fuel pump/gauge assembly and replace it, but I can't because it could be something farther up the electrical chain and $300 is too-expensive of a trouble shoot. Any ideas? | |
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motown, your problem almost certainly is in the tank. The only common between is the ground. You may not even need a new assembly. If you do, the pump should be about 100$, and the fp sending unit is probably good. You would more then likely accidentally fix the bad ground by replacing the pump. The pumps are pretty easy to do once the tank is almost out of fuel. The assembly unbolts from the top with 8 mm nuts and a few fuel lines and vents, and a return. As for the other problems in this thread, I noticed that in the later models, like 04 and up there is a water/splash/drip cover over the pcm. My 03 doesnt have it, but I live in the desert so it has not been a problem. It might just be missing it, as mine was used and was in a front end accident before I got it. For everyone in moist climates, its probably a good idea to remove grounds every now and then and wire brush the contact area then put back together. |
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OK I'm new here so bare with me he as I describe my dilemma to you all! I have had this ongoing problem with my Van for about a year it runs fine when cold but after it runs for about 5 to 10 min's and you shut it off it will not restart. I have had many people try and figure it out and have spent many hours working on there suggestions, and spent to much money on things that didn't work. So far I have changed the fuel pump and filter, change the Ignition Control Module and Camshaft Position Sensor, and removed the (2) Catalytic Converters to check for blockage and still the same thing! I have now turned to you all for help I hope someone has had this problem fixed. you can start it when hot if you step on gas pedal but it will stall out when you let up on it, on another note when it runs the speed o is very erratic (but I think that is a sensor) and not what is causing the not starting when hot problem.
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Replying to: igsg8tor (Jun 15, 2009 10:20 am) Had the speedo jumping around just the other day too. Did you figure out what the problem was? |
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Van died on the road, had it towed to garage, $500 later with new distributor (top bearing was worn) rotor and cap it ran fine. Drove home, 4 miles. An hour later engine would not start, no spark, I have a spark tester. Spark came back engine started, drove to job site, shut off and engine would not restart, no spark, later engine started. Drove home. Saturday, engine started and ran fine for short trips. Sunday I used "Auto-tap" OBDII tester, no codes, replaced the crank position sensor, monitored engine. Restarted engine approximately 10 to 15 times with no problem. Monitored with Auto-tap, no codes, tracked ignition voltage, 14 volts steady, drove around the block, flogged it ran fine. Sunday evening, drove 0.2 miles, died, no spark, no gauges, no idiot lights, only light on dash is "ABS" light. Will check for bad fuse. Fuse is good. Monday, plugged in Auto-tap, gauges and warning lights functioned and engine started. Removed gauge fuse, engine will start and shuts down in about 3 seconds. Will now look for a loose wire, call my GM dealer and see if there are any service bulletins for this problem.
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Replying to: van3500 (Oct 26, 2009 7:27 am) I talked to a friend that works at a truck garage. When I mentioned plugging the OBDII tester in and the warning / status lights came on he said I had a bad ground. I found a loose ground wire at the thermostat housing, Tightened the ground and the van is running fine. I will monitor for a few days until my confidence in the van returns. I hope this helps others. |
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Hello, I have a 2002 Chevy Express 3500 with 56,000 miles. Last December out of the blue it would not start after a trip to the store. After many tries we got it to barely start and it sputtered and clanked the entire way home. The dealer couldn't get to it for a few days and we were able to drive it but the engine would only turn over when it was cold. Once it got heated up you had to wait a couple hours before starting it again. The dealer claimed it was the starter and battery and strangely enough after those were replaced it seemed to run fine. Fast forward to last month. We purchased a minivan and have only been driving the Express maybe once a week and only into town and back (3 miles maybe). It hasn't had a full tank of gas since the beginning of October and has been sitting on a quarter tank for about 6 weeks now. Today I went to start it and it gave me a bit of trouble but once it got started it ran fine and I figured it was due to the low amount of gas and the fact that it just sits around so much. I made it to the store (9 miles away) just fine but when I got back out it wouldn't start for anything. After a million tries and having it barely catch just to stall it stayed running but was clanking and could barely go over 10 miles an hour. I made it to a gas station and after adding $20 worth of gas it started better but still kept acting like it wanting to stall. There was also a banging sound coming from the exhast. I called my father-in-law and he started it and let it run for awhile. He managed to drive it home just fine, he said at first it wanted to stall but then ran perfectly after about a mile or so. Now the SES light is on which is the first time I've ever seen it on this van. Any thoughts/ideas? I'm not sure how it ran for nearly a year before acting up again.
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