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196 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 9:55 AM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: tecker2 (Apr 15, 2007 7:31 am) 2: Some, but minimal. 3: Not as long as you plan for the possibility for a motor mount lift (or transfer case drop) if necessary.
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Replying to: mac24 (Apr 15, 2007 10:30 am) 2: Some, but minimal. 3: Not as long as you plan for the possibility for a motor mount lift (or transfer case drop) if necessary. What mac said, but to expand. 31's should fit with no problem on your stock suspension. BUT, a 2" lift will set you up if you want to go up to 32's down the road. 31's will still look nice with a 2" lift and you'll have lotsa room for flex. It is not a waste as you do get a nicer tire/aggressive look with that lift. You shouldn't have a vibe problem with that lift, but a motor mount lift will really cure that (that is one way to fix the potential problem, and probably the cheapest unless you want to lower the t-case, which seems backwards to me). Death wobble again shouldn't be an issue, but each Jeep is different. If you ensure all steering linkages are secure like they are supposed to be, your tires are well balanced, and your steering geometry is relatively stock, you should be good. -Paul
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Replying to: mac24 (Apr 12, 2007 6:32 am)  I actually had read Tom's post before, but I mixed up the washer thing for the backspacing instead of the steering stop. After deciding with 32" tires, I'm just going with a 2" lift. I'm assuming that is all I need. Also, after reading Tom's post, and an article on TireRack, I'm still a little confused about backspacing. Assuming the stock rims on the Jeep have 5.5 backspacing (I know I read that somewhere), if I go from 30x9.5 to 32x11.5, does that mean I need an additional 2" of backspacing, meaning I want a rim with 3.5" backspacing? Or do I want 7.5"? Or does it even matter?? Thanks!
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Replying to: karlw90 (Apr 16, 2007 5:59 am) 5.5" BS and 32x11.5's will rub when you turn. You can adjust the steering stops by adding washers to THEM, as described at http://www.4x4xplor.com/steerstop.html. Here are the SpiderTrax spacers, as installed on my rear drums:  -Paul |
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Replying to: erickpl (Apr 16, 2007 4:18 am)
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Replying to: tecker2 (Apr 16, 2007 7:02 pm) I don't remember your tire and lift question relating to an accident, but why is getting a new axle bad news? Unless you have no insurance I'd jump at it. There could well be internal damage associated with the impact, but it may not be apparent for a few thousand miles. Unless the axle housing has been stripped and measured you can't tell that it's still straight. However, assuming that the housing is straight and is internally undamaged, it's no big deal to cut off, straighten, then reweld a mounting bracket. It just requires careful measuring. Most aftermarket axle suppliers (like Currie) carry rear brackets and you may be able to modify one of those, but straightening the bent one or just fabricating a new one would probably be more cost effective.
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Replying to: mac24 (Apr 16, 2007 7:27 pm) ask em for a D44 front axle from a Rubicon! Just make sure they have the same gearing as the rear. Dana 30's are stock, but if you can manage a Rubicon D44, that'd be sweet. You can also possibly work it out to get Super 30 shafts, which are stronger than the stock shafts. Use this opportunity to go with stronger u-joints too, and you'll be much better off should you decide to venture offroad with it. Remember, there are no accidents - just opportunities to mod and upgrade!  -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (Apr 17, 2007 4:56 am) Paul, I like the philosophy, "opportunities to mod and upgrade" That works for me.
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Replying to: rowland08 (Feb 27, 2007 1:01 pm)
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Replying to: kgabehurt (Apr 30, 2007 5:33 am) If this is a vehicle on a dealer's lot, I'm sure you can negotiate with the dealer to get what you want, but I doubt that it'll be cheap. |
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