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193 messages, Last post on Sep 26, 2009 at 5:22 AM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
I also experienced the death wobble a few times over the last year in my stock 2003 Sport that I bought new. It has never been off-road, hardly ever been dirty, and only has 13,600 miles on it. I had a Ford Festiva that I drove harder than my Jeep! Anyway, I was convinced that the problem was tires because the car alway started to shimmy at 50 to 60 mph. I did replace the steering damper and this seemed to help but not for long and the wobble was still there. This week I went in to buy new tires but asked for a check of the track bar first since I understand it can cause the problem. The track bar did have a very, very small amount of play in it and I had it replaced still convinced the problem was tires. I've driven the car for a couple of days now, hit all of my favorite bumps that set it off in the past and not only does the wobble seem to be gone but the "tire" shimmy as well. I'm not sure why the track bar would fail on a car that was hardly driven but hopefully I've got my practically "new" Jeep back.
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Replying to: erickpl (Oct 09, 2008 4:42 am)
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Replying to: riclee (Oct 10, 2008 4:38 pm) There are vendors out there like Currie. http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/currectlync.aspx?id=913 It is an upgraded tie rod and drag ling setup. There is also an option called HiSteer by a company called ORO. But this is mainly for offroaders to move the tie rod assembly up higher to avoid rocks and such. The Currie setup is supposed to be pretty good. That said, IF the problem lies with the trackbar setup and being loose at the axle end, the Currie setup won't fix this. Here is a picture of the steering components identified clearly. THOSE are the components you want to look at to resolve the death wobble. SOMETHING is loose somewhere, you have bad tires, or some bushings are worn out. While you shouldn't expect it on a newer TJ, it can happen.  You can see that the trackbar and drag link are pretty much parallel in the pic above. THAT is key for death wobble prevention. If they aren't fairly parallel, you will have problems. (BTW, those sway bar links are aftermarket. Stock will not look like that). Hope that helps some. I've diagnosed a few loose spots on people's Jeeps and solved the cases I've come across, but it is a LOT harder over the net. -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (Oct 15, 2008 5:21 am) 1- I don't see the damper on your picture, therefore I assume your steering is set up different than mine. Correct? 2- If I do the checking for loose nuts, tec how will I know that I'm not tightening something that may be an adjustment? You see, I really don't have the money to take this in for others to work on it. I suppose I will need to eventually though because it's beyond me.
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Replying to: riclee (Oct 15, 2008 1:41 pm) My steering setup is stock with the exception of aftermarket swaybar disconnects (like those shown in the pic), aftermarket track bar (made by JKS), and a tie rod for a Grand Cherokee (since it is thicker and stronger). Geometries are 100% the same though. For checking the loose nuts, have somebody sit behind the wheel. Start the Jeep. Have them slowly steer back and forth at your command. 1. Check the joints for the trackbar (frame and lower passenger axle). If there is any movement, they need to be tightened down. 2. Check the tierod ends. If the do anything OTHER than rotate the bar a tiny bit (ie there appears to be play), tighten em down. 3. Check the drag link ends. If it is loose at the steering box, tighten as best you can. 4. If you can jack up your front a bit so wheels are off the ground, do that. Then grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if you can 'rock' the wheel back and forth. It may have a tiny bit of play, and that is normal. If it seems excessive, your ball joints may be toast. 5. While it is jacked up, grab one end of the axle and see if you can 'rock' it forward and back. If you can move it excessively, your control arm bushings may be worn and may need replacement. Most likely, you'll find one of those to be the case. As for tightening down, a torque wrench is a GREAT investment and you can find them at harbor freight fairly inexpensively. You can also pick up a Haynes manual from places like Autozone for about 20.00. I'm not mechanically inclined when I started, but now have no problems working on my Jeep at all. -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (Oct 16, 2008 8:05 am)
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Replying to: riclee (Oct 16, 2008 2:33 pm) -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (Oct 17, 2008 5:12 am) Anyhow, I want to learn as much as I can about this newer one. I sent off for a repair manual but it only goes up to 2003. I didn't think they had changed much up to '06 so I ordered it. Before I go on, I want to explain that I'm merely an old woman (58) who tries to do my own wrenching as much as possible. In my younger years it was more fun than anything else but these days with the prices repair shops charge and the awful rip-offs, I find I am in 'need' to do my own work when I can. I hope this fact (that I'm a woman) doesn't turn you off on helping me out. Later on I want to learn how to make my own cold air induction system hoping to gain a little more horsepower and maybe save a tad on gas useage. I do want to tell you that I appreciate your offer. Thank you!
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Replying to: riclee (Oct 17, 2008 11:32 am)  my email is skimblzbvs at yahoo dot com. That's the email I use for this stuff. If you got the haynes manual, I think that is the right one. I have the factory service manual for your year as well, but those kinds of repairs are probably more than you need to worry about. I can help ya as much as possible. When you contact me, I have a few things you can try. -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (Oct 17, 2008 11:53 am) LOL I'm hoping the manual will be here by tomorrow. I'll let you know. Thank you for your email address. I'll send you an email so you have mine as well. |
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