Last post on Aug 11, 2011 at 10:41 PM
You are in the Buick Century
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Buick Century, Brakes
#30 of 32 tie rid end
Jan 13, 2010 (3:02 pm)
post number 29, this is one of many question I have been asking the manager at fair town tire. I was told aligment and the tire wear is not covered because I did not have an aligment done. I showed them the paper work that an aliment was to be done. they don't have an answer for me. how did they not notice a bad tie rod during the front end agiliment? they said things can be over looked it was fine before the front end aligment was done on the car. I am still fight with them. if there is a town fair by you I would not go to them. all they will give me is 10% off my next purchase. I told them there will not be a next purchase.
#31 of 32 Re: 1994 Buick Century Brake Problems [ladamski]
Jun 18, 2011 (12:23 pm)
A friend of mine was driving towards a stoplight and the brake pedal went to the floor on his 1996 Buick Century. Pumping gave only partial rear braking. He hobbled to my house (during which the brakes worked normally the whole way). We pulled the driver side tire and discovered that the fibrous finely woven tube cover (fiberglass?) to the extremely thin and fragile wire to ABS sensor looked burnt. Cutting it off we discovered the wires inside had shorted out. When we cleared the short and individually wrap insulated the wires, the ABS warning light then came on. A gravel skid test revealed no ABS at all. We found that dead shorting the wire to the sensor with a jumper wire will cause the ABS warning light to go out, but obviously disables the ABS. We replaced the sensor (which requires that the whole bearing/stud assembly to be replaced), and then the ABS light went out. A gravel skid test revealed the ABS working fine and he says the normal braking is now better too. Some research reveals that the ABS detects no tire turn during a skid and releases hydraulic pressure to the brakes until the tire is detected as turning. We think that when a short to the sensor occurs the sensor never detects the tire turning again and thus never stops bleeding fluid pass the brake (and the initial short may even set off the ABS without an actual skid occurring). Anyone having random near-total or total loss of brakes on this type of vehicle might do well to examine the wires and terminals leading to the ABS sensors - and replace suspicious units (we paid about $90 for a unit from a common auto parts chain). A gravel skid test might also reveal an ABS system not working even though there is no ABS warning light lit. Replacing the bearing/stud/ABS Sensor assembly is moderately hard. You have to remove the axle nut, the caliper and rotor, and the assembly’s three star drive cap screws (moderately rusted and hard to brake loose) - harder than a brake job, but easier than a CV Joint replacement.
#32 of 32 drum brakes
Aug 11, 2011 (10:41 pm)
has anybody done a rear brake job on buick century? how in gods name do you hol all the drum break componets together, then try to put that big w spring on to clip into the shoes? is their a special tool for this? can some one show me it, and how to use it. thank you