Last post on Apr 06, 2013 at 7:52 AM
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Pontiac Montana, Pontiac Montana SV6, Heating / Cooling, Van
#47 of 94 Re: changing thermostat on 2000 Pontiac Montana [montana999]
Dec 31, 2009 (1:22 pm)
If you are not taking off the black crosspipe (that connects just over the thermostat into the throttle body) then it's a bitch. I can't remember now but I think I took off the throttle body (because I was going to clean it anyway and replace the gasket - for fun) so it made it easier for me. Some places on the internet say that you can
get a wrench in there... but I can't see how, it would be quite hard to do and I tried and couldn't. Even with the throttle body off and the cross pipe pulled out of the way its not a fun housing to get back on... Hope this helps !
#48 of 94 2003 Pontiac Montana not getting warm in cabin after running 20 min.
Jan 05, 2010 (8:49 pm)
I know it is cold outside (0 F),but after driving 30 min. it isn't getting very warm inside cabin .I ran van with heat on & it got a little warm & then the windows began to frost, so I turned it to defrost & it worked & then we were cold, so I had to keep going back & forth---we recently traveled 1000 miles to higher elevation & have returned,& noticed this problem.Any ideas before heading to a shop & hopefully not getting ripped off?? Oh, we have kept up with scheduled care & it has 109,000 miles on it.Thanks for the help
#49 of 94 Re: 2003 Pontiac Montana not getting warm in cabin after running 20 min. [mbetts]
Jan 05, 2010 (9:19 pm)
If you read through my previous posts/solutions my bet is that your heater core is blocked. If you have rear heat and it works but the front does not produce heat then it is almost certain that is what is wrong. If you don't have rear heat to test then a heater core flush is the only way to know forsure... you may have a manifold gasket leak getting air into the coolant resulting in low coolant and thus low volume flow through the heater core... i'm no expert but these are my observations owning the van myself (2000) with rear heat. Good luck !
#50 of 94 Re: 2003 Pontiac Montana not getting warm in cabin after running 20 min. [mbetts]
Jan 06, 2010 (8:07 am)
This is very simple. If you have heat for your passengers seated back and cold air in front, try this: 1) disconnect the auxiliaire pump; 2) disconnct the small pipe on the other side of the motor (approximately over the belt); 3) flush in both direction with your garden hose. When the water will be clear, replug both hoses, fill it up with antifreeze and VERY IMPORTANT open the two bloods to evacuate any air that have penetrated in the system, OTHERWISE the motor will overheat while the air in the defrost will still be cold. So, check very carefully the heating temperature in your dash.
Last point: when blooding the systems (remember there are two blooders to open), it could take you from 5 to 15 minutes to have a final result i.e. only antifreeze comes out without any bubbling.
Think environment, use a garbage can to keep liquid off the ground. The best way to do it is to first wet the floor. While doing this any antifreeze would be very easy to wash with water, otherwise your asphalt will keep good memories of your work...
If this help you why not consider making a donation at one of your favorite caritative organization? It can only cost you a fraction of what a garage bill is able to do...
#51 of 94 2004 Montana No Air FLow on Heat Setting
Feb 20, 2010 (7:32 am)
I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana that I am experiencing air flow problems when you move the Climate Control to HEAT. When it is on COLD, the air flow is fine, but when you move the controller to the heat setting, you hear the air deflecting and the air flow from any of the vents up front go to almost nothing. I am not sure what is wrong. The dealership wants almost $800.00 to take it apart.
#52 of 94 Re: No heat with remote control start up [lolak70]
Feb 21, 2010 (1:44 pm)
The issue is with the remote starter and not your vehicle. Your car has two accessory wires and both need to be connected for the accessories to function properly. Most remote starters have 2 ignition and 1 accessory outputs and if they are not connected properly your heater will not work properly. If the remote starter used to activate the heater before, check the fuses for the remote starter itself and make sure none of them have blown.
#53 of 94 Re: No heat with remote control start up [chicagocartoys]
Feb 21, 2010 (2:26 pm)
We dont have REMOTE Starter on the van. Again I have good air flow when the climate control is to the COLD side. When you turn the climate control to HOT, the air flow drops to almost nothing. You hear the air blowing in the dashboard, but very little is coming out of the vents.....Neither the vents on the dash or the floor board.
If there are wires not connected I have no idea where they would be. The only remotes we have are to lock and unlock the doors.
#54 of 94 2005 Montana Defrost Air Only is Cool Temp
Feb 25, 2010 (4:10 pm)
I have a 2005 Pontiac Montana (not SV6). This winter I have noticed more than previous winters....when you run the defroster you get air, but it never gets very warm. You can change the front to the floor and get lots of hot air, change the front to the A/C vents and get lots of hot air. There is hot air in the back for the passengers. Only on defrost do you have air that never gets warm. When you switch to defrost you can hear the deflector change and you can put your hand up by the windshield and go from no air to plenty of air coming out...it is just not warm.
#55 of 94 Pontiac 04 Montana struts
Mar 03, 2010 (7:29 pm)
Tell me it is not true that you have to pull the dash to change the struts.
#56 of 94 Re: Pontiac 04 Montana struts [notaminivan]
Mar 03, 2010 (8:48 pm)
No it is not true. You can reach the strut mounting bolts from under the hood. The trick to it is that you must take the windshield wiper motor and wiper assemblies off of both sides. To do this you must do the following:
1. Remove the wiper arm assemblies from both sides. They have a plastic cap which covers the actual nut. This just pops off with a screw driver. Then remove the plastic leaf guard that is under the wiper blades.
2. Remove the 3 nuts that hold each wiper shaft assembly. The left one will drop out. the right one needs extra room.
3. Remove the wiper motor assembly from the right side. I believe there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold it. Pull the motor assembly forward and drop the arm assembly down as you move it forward.
4. You should now be able to access the 3 strut nuts.
5. Remove 2 bolts from spindle assembly and pull strut down and out.
6. Assemble is reverse of above.
If you are just replaceing the strut tubes and not the whole assembly, you should think about changeing the strut bearing plates on top of the struts as they go bad usually before the strut tubes. If you feel and/or hear a poping/grinding noise while turning the wheels then the bearings are bad for sure.
If you are replaceing the whole strut assembly, spring and all, then you get new bearings in the assembly.
Sometimes it is best to have the alignment checked afterwards as you can disturb the alignment settings.
Hope this helps you.