48 messages,
Last post on Jan 16, 2009 at 3:44 PM
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Dodge/Plymouth Neon Forum.
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Dodge Neon, Plymouth Neon, Dodge Neon SRT-4, Auto Repair, Oil, Sedan
#39 of 48 Timing Belt cover
by alkijim
Jul 30, 2007 (2:37 pm)
#40 of 48 Timing Belt cover
by alkijim
Jul 30, 2007 (2:37 pm)
How in the heck do I get the timing belt cover off? The bolts to the motor mount are so long they won's come out so the timing belt cover can be removed.
#41 of 48 Recommended maintenance on 2001 Neon 5M
by mcmanus
Aug 13, 2007 (5:39 am)
Just "inherited" this car from stepson for his brother's eventual use with $118,000 miles on it. I don't have an owner's manual, service records, and just vague accounts of what service might have been done on it. The car doesn't get run routinely and so I had to recently replace the battery. The only other real problem with the car is the A/C barely works. This is my first experience with a Chrysler product and know nothing about the local dealership.
My questions: What's on schedule to be done? Roughly how long do these cars run before major issues? What would you recommend having done?
thanks
#42 of 48 Re: timing belt change [moondoggy1]
by rojo4
Dec 29, 2007 (11:41 pm)
I am in the process of completing the timing belt replacement on my 2000 neon. The removal of the balancer was one of the first challenges as I did not think mine was going to ever come off either.. You will need a 3 arm gear puller. The first one I used was too big and would keep slipping off the balancer. The second one I used looks too small to do the job but it fit correctly and worked fine.There is suppose to be a special tool to place in the crankshaft to protect the threads.Some people use the balancer bolt but I had no luck with that. I made my own out of a bolt slightly smaller diameter than the one that holds the balancer on. Cut the head off and grind down the threads on the bolt so it won't damage the threads in the crank. It should bottom out in the crank, cut to length about even with the balancer face ( aprox. 4") . You will attach the puller on the inside part of the balancer , where it is about 21/2 " dia..You will see the "slots" where the puller arms should go.Tighten as much as possible. If it does not loosen, tap the puller with a hammer about 10 times. Tighten again....repeat this process until it loosens. You might want to tap gently on the face of the balancer pryor to using the puller. Just be carful not to mushroom the bolt hole. This should work for you. Just be aware this is a tough, tedious undertaking as you will find you will need a couple of specific tools and working space is TIGHT.( be sure to have a 3/8 drive 15mm socket, a long 3/8 extension and swivel... Be prepared to buy additional parts which will be expensive ...belt tensioner assembly and serpintine belt pulley assembly, also replace water pump while you are in there. I plan on posting a more detailed account on my experience soon. along with ways to save BIG $$$.
#43 of 48 1998 squeels in the morning when i start it
by lucinda9973
Jan 21, 2008 (5:07 pm)
Does anyone know if it is the serpintine or the timming belt?
#44 of 48 Re: 1998 squeels in the morning when i start it [lucinda9973]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jan 23, 2008 (10:01 am)
timing belts don't squeal----if it did you'd be in big trouble (squealing means slipping).
You might need to tighten up whatever belt is making noise and if it is glazed (polished and smooth on the interior surface of the belt) you need to replace it right away--because it will continue to slip and encourage over-tightening.
#45 of 48 oil in spark plug shaft.
by scrubsjim
Jun 20, 2008 (11:25 am)
after finding oil in my spark plug shafts more in 1 & 2, i bought the kit and a Haynes book....GO haynes!! and got to work, I am not mechanically inclined,,,,,to qoute "Bones McCoy " I'm a Nurse not a Mechanic.
#46 of 48 Re: Removing the Water Pump [dgjoka]
by lakeg41
Aug 16, 2008 (11:52 pm)
THIS INFO IS VERY LATE FOR YOU ,BUT MAYBE SOMEONE MAY GET SOMETHING FROM THIS . I FOUND THAT IN ORDER TO CHANGE TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP (IT IS FOOLISH NOT TO BOTH AT SAME TIME) YOU DO NEED TO RAISE THE ENGINE . THIS VERY SIMPLE TO DO IF YOU HAVE A GARAGE TYPE OF FLOOR JACK. YOU MUST USE A BLOCK OF WOOD ON JACK & THEN JACK UP THE ENGINE AT THE OIL PAN . BEFORE YOU DO THIS HOWEVER YOU MUST LOOSEN THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS .THERE IS A BOLT ON THE UPPER MOUNT WHICH IS ABOUT 6 " LONG AND CANNOT BE REMOVED UNTIL THE ENGINE IS RAISED ,YOU MUST LOOSEN BEFORE THE ENGINE IS RAISED HOWEVER . THIS TRICK HELPED ME TO DO THE TIMG BELT ON MY 2000 NEON AND MY WIFES PT CRUISER . THEY ARE SIMILAR BUT THE PT IS A LOT HARDER TO ACCESS WORK AREA .THE BEST BET IS TO EITHER BUY A REPAIR MANUAL FROM HAUNES OR CHILTON ,OR JUST GO THE LIBRARY FOR ONE . THE BOOKS WILL BE A GREAT HELP . JOB WILL TAKE THE AVERAGE PERSON ABOUT 4 - 5 HOURS . ACCORDING TO A SHOP MANUAL 2.5 ,WHICH I FIND NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE !!
#47 of 48 Heating and cooling sensors
by akjeffery
Jan 16, 2009 (1:31 pm)
Okay every one I need help on this one. First of does the heating and cooling have anything to do with my emmisions?
Second off my check engine light is on and I have been told that it is a heating and cooling sensor. I can not find this sensor that they are talking about any one have any ideas?? I have checked all the fuses inside the car and they are good.
#48 of 48 Re: Heating and cooling sensors [akjeffery]
by okko1
Jan 16, 2009 (3:44 pm)
what is the code of the check engine light? if you have that most public libraries have access to mitchel component locator. you can also find a number of repair manuals.