- #61 of 120
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Replacing LS's rear brake pads/rotors
by jodar96
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Oct 08, 2007 (6:13 pm)
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The rear caliper pistons are tough to push back in. I know they have two notches and they have to be rotated back in. I had a special tool that is a cube with so many different shape 2 or 4 notches 180 or 90 degree apart that worked fine on my 95 Cutlass. None of the notches fit the LS. The LS caliper has larger piston and the notches are farther apart. I bought a Ford-specific tool from Napa for $15. The tool made the piston rotate, but it did not retract. I was pushing in while rotating it...After hours of frustration, finally I put my 7.0" C-clamp on it, and starting clamping it. To my surprize, the piston started rotating and retracting at the same time. It was odd the way it was behaving but it worked.
If you are doing the work yourself, also remove the caliper sliding pins, clean, lubricate, and reinstall. My lower left pin was frozen. I pulled back the rubber booth, sprayed some WD40 on it, let it sit 10 minutes, used a crescent wrench to rotate the pin, used C-clamp to push it in a little, and a screw driver and a mallet to pull it out. It was all rusted. Used sand paper and wired brush to clean both the pin and the guide hole.
I bought Brembo rotors for both front and rear. They were like $55 for front and $45 for rear each. These were made in Italy. The ones for my Explorer were made in Mexico. Front pads are Napa's cermic type about $50. NO BRAKE DUST!! I am very impressed. For rear, I bought Napa's $25 pads. I will see how well the rear pads stay dust free.
The LS has 112K miles on it and this was the first brake job.
Joe
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- #62 of 120
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Re: rear window
by akirby
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Oct 08, 2007 (7:40 pm)
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Replying to: rdkingman (Oct 08, 2007 4:48 pm)
It's the regulators. You can buy the regulator without the motor for around $30. It will take you about 2 hours to do the first one, 45 minutes for the second one.
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- #63 of 120
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2000 LS cranks but does not start
by jodar96
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Nov 10, 2007 (6:53 am)
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Our 2000 LS V-6 with 114K miles does not start. It cranks like it wants to start then dies right away. Has anyone had this issue before? The battery is about a year old.
Thanks,
Joe
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- #64 of 120
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Re: 2000 LS cranks but does not start [jodar96]
by ccicak
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Nov 11, 2007 (2:19 pm)
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Replying to: jodar96 (Nov 10, 2007 6:53 am)
sound like fuel pump failure. Check if pump is working.
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- #65 of 120
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Re: Replacing LS's rear brake pads/rotors [jodar96]
by jetstang
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Nov 26, 2007 (8:19 pm)
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Replying to: jodar96 (Oct 08, 2007 6:13 pm)
Thanks for the advice. I had a rear caliper freeze up today and had smoke coming from the pads. I went to Autozone and got a loaner tool for $35 with 10 adapters for different piston sizes to screw the piston back while applying pressure to the piston, worked great, then installed new pads. I am trying to reuse the rear caliper for now since I would have to order the caliper anyway and got my car back on the road tonight, except I only bleed one side so the peddle is soft. It is late, I will change the other side pads tomorrow night and bleed it correctly. Oh, the symptom was that the car acted like a tire was out of balance  intermittendly, and the car would run smooth, then shake and sound like a flat tire, then run smooth again, very confusing.
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- #66 of 120
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Re: Replacing LS's rear brake pads/rotors [jetstang]
by ccicak
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Nov 26, 2007 (10:45 pm)
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Replying to: jetstang (Nov 26, 2007 8:19 pm)
Good info on the brake tool from Autozone, thanks. I did my brakes last winter and made a tool out of wood and nails, which made the job much harder than it needed to be. Next time I'll rent the tool. I'm planning to change the auto trans fluid this week and waiting for the filter to come in from Advance Auto. Job doesn't look too difficult except I must pump the new fluid in since there is no dipstick. My tranny is mis-behaving (clunks when changing gears and sometimes hesitates when put into drive). Had it rebuilt once already be the dealer at 15k miles (under warranty) but now has 53k miles and acting up again. Hoping new fluid will help.
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- #67 of 120
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Re: Replacing LS's rear brake pads/rotors [ccicak]
by jetstang
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Nov 27, 2007 (4:07 am)
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Replying to: ccicak (Nov 26, 2007 10:45 pm)
Actually it is a loaner tool, you "rent/buy" it for $35, and return it for a refund when you are done, no charge to use the tool. It is a good program they have. They loan AC manifold, guages, and pumps here, plus 100 other tools, check it out. Good luck on your tranny job.
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- #68 of 120
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Re: Replacing LS's rear brake pads/rotors [ccicak]
by akirby
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Nov 27, 2007 (5:33 am)
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Replying to: ccicak (Nov 26, 2007 10:45 pm)
You really should get the tranny flushed at the dealer - that will get 95% of the old fluid out. They use the cooler lines to remove the old fluid and replace it with new with the engine running. Much better than dropping the pan where you only get about 1/3 of the fluid.
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- #69 of 120
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Re: Replacing LS's rear brake pads/rotors [akirby]
by jetstang
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Nov 27, 2007 (5:11 pm)
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Replying to: akirby (Nov 27, 2007 5:33 am)
On the tranny flush, I understand the concept and the claim of 90% plus new fluid, but how can you pump new fluid into a full tranny oil pan and torque converter and expect only the old fluid to come out? It is good to flush the tranny, but the percent effective is over estimated I am sure. Just my 2 cents.
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- #70 of 120
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Re: Replacing LS's rear brake pads/rotors [jetstang]
by akirby
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Nov 27, 2007 (5:29 pm)
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Replying to: jetstang (Nov 27, 2007 5:11 pm)
Because it uses the transmission's own pump. Think about it - when you're driving the transmission is pumping the fluid and sending it through the cooler. You can try this yourself with a couple of 5 gallon buckets and rubber hose - just make sure not to contaminate the new fluid or run it low.
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