Last post on Aug 28, 2013 at 8:53 AM
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Lincoln LS, Steering, Suspension, Sedan
#130 of 139 Re: suspension parts same as jag s-type [honky]
Aug 25, 2011 (12:38 am)
I have a 2000 lincoln LS VS with 74,000 miles. The best place I have found to buy parts for my car is Rock Auto. I have replaced myself the sway bar links (R/L), driver lower ball joint and upper driver L control arm. I did the work myself at an auto hobby shop. The left/driver control arm is far harder than the passenger side buy looking at the bots.
#131 of 139 2000 Lincoln LS ball joints, upper control arms, sway links (NO MORE POP)
Aug 25, 2011 (12:52 am)
Diagnosing suspension sounds.
To test ball joint place car on lift and pull tire in an up and down motion. Is there play. If there is you need a new ball joint. The same goes if the upper control arm are free play.
Over the past couple of weeks I have replaced several items on my 2000 Lincoln LS VB with 74,000 miles. The first were the faulty sway links. They are easy to replace just loosen large bolts with either an allen wrench or small open ended wrench and the other a larger on the main bolt. These were $40 for both left and right side. The second was the driver side lower ball joint. This was a difficult task but can be done if you have the right tools to remove the old one. The best product I found was a MOOG ball joint. They say you have to buy the entire knuckle with ball joint installed for around $300 but with $58 and your own power tools and ball joint removal kit you can do on your own with the MOOG. The final item installed was an driver side upper control arm for $116 from Rock Auto. This item is difficult to remove to the rear of tire bolt. This is how I did it. Car on lift loosen shock 4 bolts on top and the large bolt on the bottom. Do not remove the center bolt of the shock. Go into the engine and remove the inner bolt located just behind the air filter. The second bolt is underneath the brake reservoir. This is rough best to loosen from top it will be tight though and take a psuematic
air socket from the bottom. Place in position the new control arm and tighten bolts on top. Pull through the top ball joint and tighten up. Once cannot tighten any more use two wrenches on end going opposite directions. Then reinstall shock ensure all bolts on top and the lower is also tightened properly. This is how I did this job.
#132 of 139 2000 Lincoln LS (Knocking while driving)
Aug 25, 2011 (12:57 am)
About 4 months ago my 2000 Lincoln LS V8 started knocking while driving and I thought it was bad fuel or even perhaps the car had some other problem. I purchased a new fuel filter installed and my car mileage increased by 4 mpg. The filter was likely the original in the car so some dirty fuel was trapped in the system and was disgusting. I recommend you change the filter if your car is knocking and the decreasing gas mileage.
#133 of 139 Re: suspension parts same as jag s-type [woodyk1]
Sep 06, 2011 (2:49 pm)
I have a 2002 lincoln ls v6. I need to replace lower control arm bushings. Can I use the jag s type for the v6 like it said you could for the v8. And how would I go about doing it- I've located a place to buy the bushings only.
#134 of 139 Re: My #3 Son. . . [cdnpinhead]
Sep 06, 2011 (3:29 pm)
Any info you could give as to how to go about changing bushings will be much apprieciated.
i have 02 LS and was quoted a crazy amout to replace control arms when all I need is bushings. I have located bushings only.
#135 of 139 Wobbly Tire
Jun 13, 2012 (4:54 pm)
I have a 2005 LS V8 and whenever I go above 40mph the right rear wheel wobbles and causes the entire car to shake/vibrate. The shaking and vibrating doesn't stop until I slow below 40mph. I think the ball joint is my issue but I'm not sure. Could somebody help? Furthermore, does anyone know where I can get a rear ball joint from? Thanks in advance for any help.
#136 of 139 Re: Wobbly Tire [ethan13]
Jun 18, 2012 (1:11 am)
Sounds more like a wheel bearing. I don't think there's a rear ball joint.
Sep 13, 2012 (1:45 pm)
I own an 02' LS 3.0. Recently I was turned down inspection do to the steering rack leaking. I had the work done on the car got the sticker and a week later it seemed to be leaking worse. I could actually see the fluid on the ground where I had never noticed it before. Took the car back and had another rack installed. this time it was placed off center. I could turn the wheel right and go in a circle standing still basically and could hardly turn left so again I brought it back. The mechanic has told me that alot/all of the replacement racks made for my car were built defective and that his supplier is having one made... I personally find this hard to swallow and I cant find anything online about it. They have had my car for about 2 months now. does this replacement part defect hold water or should I get a refund and go elsewhere???? thanks in advance.
#138 of 139 Re: Steering rack issue [nico_couture]
Sep 13, 2012 (8:26 pm)
Your mechanic is full of it. I'd get my car out of there as soon as possible.
#139 of 139 Not stabilizer or sway bar.
Aug 28, 2013 (8:53 am)
Actually, the long bar that the top of the sway bar is connected to is what is causing the clunking noise. I can hear it when I jiggle that long bar when my sway bar is uninstalled. I might tack a weld where the long bar connects along the front of the bottom of the car. However, the bushing from that sway bar is warped and the joint has too much "play" in it, which may be causing that long bar to jiggle freely when the sway bar is actually attached. We'll see...