Last post on Sep 15, 2013 at 6:23 AM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
What is this discussion about?
Buick LeSabre, Transmission, Sedan
#29 of 101 1996 Buick LeSabre Transmission Question
Jul 18, 2008 (9:07 am)
I have a 1996 Buick LeSabre w/ 126K on the odometer....I recently had the transmission serviced (pan drop method). After service, transmission would "slip" in the AM; it would not move until I drop down through all the gears. Return to the shop and they added transmission fluid. They said it was at the correct level. Problem remained. I added a full quart before a 300 mile trip and all fine the next morning; no AM slip from then forward. Car then needed a new radiator. I noticed a continued drip after the new radiator. Shop determined the leak to be transmission fluid from a cooling line. The shop checked the transmission fluid level (fine) and I did as well (fine), but the AM slip is back. What the heck is wrong with the transmission? Is there some "air bubble" in it and should I just add more fluid a pint at a time until the AM slip disappears again?
Thanks for reading!
#30 of 101 Engine burps intermittantly
Jul 23, 2008 (1:00 pm)
I have a 1995 Buick Le Sabre with 100K miles on it. 85K I put on myself. Last summer while driving to North Carolina from New Jersey and cruising at 65MPH, the engine burped. (cut off, all indicator lights came on, speedometer needle jumped about 15MPH higher and then everything went back to normal and we were running again) Whole incident lasted about 5 seconds. This reoccured two more time over the next three hundred miles. When reaching our destination I shut down the vehicle and unloaded the car. Shortly afterwards I started the car again to park in another spot and the car would not go in reverse. I shut down the engine, restarted and all worked fine. Next day I had the transmission serviced and everything checked OK. Over the next week the burp happened two or three more times but always started so I have driven it like this for the past year. (Mostly local ) Local mechanic could not access the computer and advised going to a dealer. Dealer saw no codes but replaced the crankshaft motion sensor. kept the car fo a week and wanted to shotgun some other ideas but with no guarantees, $500 later I took the car back with no cure. Have replaced the spark plugs also.
Really not sure where to go next. Thought trouble might be temperature related but there is no pattern to when it happens.
Any clues would be a great help. Rudy
#31 of 101 Re: Engine burps intermittantly [rudwil]
Jul 23, 2008 (2:25 pm)
> the engine burped. (cut off, all indicator lights came on, speedometer needle jumped about 15MPH higher and then everything went back to normal and we were running again)
Can you explain a little more. Are you saying the motor shut down, stopped, and you were coasting, and then the motor restarted all on its own? The motor won't restart by the transmission turning it while the car is moving.
Is it possible the motor just slowed but kept turning at idle speed then picked back up.
My two things to suggest would be to carefully check all battery cables for corrosion at both ends. Especially check between the two positives if yours has the one on top of the other. Pull back the plastic layers on cables to see if the copper is corroded down into the cable. Check for battery post problems.
Next would be based on the statement from another board Pontiacs that the computers in 94 and 95 have a higher probability of flaking out. The computer itself is not expensive. I believe someone got one at AdvanceAuto for $100+. You reuse the PROM chip from your old computer.
You need a competant mechanic. If he can't connect to the OBD 1.5 cables for H bodies in 94 and d95 for his code scanner, find someone else. If you're into throwing money at it, I'd replace the computer myself. Junkyard, Advance, elsewhere. Do some shopping. Some new parts are bad also so don't buy junk!
#32 of 101 Cold transmission
Jul 23, 2008 (4:54 pm)
Bought 03 Lesabre 2 years ago used. Transmission started sliping about 1 month ago. Had transmission serviced filter and fluid with lucas trans additive. Car has 85k miles. Now in the morning, cold car will not go into gear without lite rev and switching between drive and reverse. After about 1 min car goes into gear. It shifts a little ruff but seems to be ok until it's parked overnight. Then we repeat above. Any suggestions, help or solutions out there?
#33 of 101 Re: Cold transmission [palexander]
Jul 23, 2008 (6:03 pm)
My feeling is that additives are the wrong thing to put into a transmission unless you're putting a bandaid on until you want to get it fixed.
I know little about problems because they usually are rare, unlike with some other cars. Are you sure the mileage is 85K? and not more? Was a carfax run to look for mileage change since you bought the car used?
Otherwise the pressure control is the only thing I've heard mentioned as occasionally causing a problem. I don't know if the whole transmission needs to come out. It may just be the side plate removed to access. But that's not easy! In this case if you take it to a trans shop they'll probably try to sell you a replacement transmission or a complete teardown. I'd take it to a good Buick deal to get a diagnosis. Find one with a good referral.
BTW, what color was the transmission fluid? Remember additives are like going to the hospital and telling them to just remove something in case it helps your problem! Changing the fluid and filter is good. And I believe one poster in another discussion suggested that Lucas is meant to be put in and then drained shortly after rather than being a long term use item. Maybe I'm mixing up a different Lucas product someone talked about... so don't take my word as gospel.
Just get her checked--I'm betting on the pressure control module.
#34 of 101 Re: Engine burps intermittantly [imidazol97]
Jul 24, 2008 (12:40 pm)
Usually the incident is so short lived and the engine is fairly quiet so I am really not sure that it shuts down completely. However, in a few instances. it did not restart and I coasted off the road, put the transmission in PARK and restarted easily. Will check the cables and report back.
#35 of 101 Re: Engine burps intermittantly [rudwil]
Jul 24, 2008 (12:50 pm)
Another possibility is the MAF sensor. You can try tapping on it with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. Tap different ways, different positions, from different directions, and if you get a burp from the idling motor, that may be your problem. Ideal is if you have someone with a similar motor who has a MAF sensor on theirs that you can switch since you know it's working okay.
#36 of 101 Re: Engine burps intermittantly [rudwil]
Jul 25, 2008 (6:15 am)
Checked the cables at both ends. They are clean and in good shape.
Will tackle the MAF sensor next. Thanks for the ideas.
#37 of 101 Re: Engine burps intermittantly [imidazol97]
Jul 27, 2008 (4:00 pm)
Tapped on the MAF sensor with no results. Disconnected the MAF cable, CHECK ENGINE light came on and engine ran rough. Reconnected and back to normal idle. There are two other sensors on the throttle body. One is about a 1 1/2 inch diameter cylinder, 1.0 inches long with a right angle, 4 lead connector. I disconnected this and the idle increased slightly. Took the car for a twenty mile ride with no burps but car stalled just as I was pulling into my driveway. (may be a coincidence) Will try to run it this way for a couple of days to see if there are any other clues.
There is also another 3 lead sensor beneath this unit with an orange connector on it.
Can you identify these sensors?
#38 of 101 Re: Engine burps intermittantly [rudwil]
Jul 28, 2008 (6:47 am)
The idle air control is the round one. It adjusts the bleed air to maintain a good idle; it adjusts for the air the bleeds around the throttle plate when it's closed since it blocks almost but not all the air.
The other sensor is a throttle position sensor. It measures how the throttle is opened. You can put an analoge ohmmeter across two of its leads and move the throttle. The resistance should change gradually. If it jumps that means the potentiometer windings have a worn section. That sends info to the computer telling it how much you have the throttle opened requestion GO. If the windings give the wrong throttle opening, the computer tries to give fuel for a different amount of air than the throttle plates are letting through.