Last post on Sep 24, 2013 at 11:21 AM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
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Buick LeSabre, Engine, Sedan
#169 of 305 Starting problems
Dec 15, 2009 (10:18 am)
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 65,000 miles on it. I have went through 4 Brand new starters and a brand new fly wheel. I had the starter shimmed but that worked for a shot time and now again when I start the car it makes a grinding noise like metal on metal and then starts mechanic says it has to be the starter or the fly wheel but i have replaced both and nothing is working. Anyone have any ideas of what might be the problem????
#170 of 305 92 LeSabre starts most times but then no start
Dec 18, 2009 (2:02 pm)
92 Buick 3.8 motor with only 70,000 miles
Motor will start maybe 10-15 times just fine. No drivable issues or starting issues when running.
Some times will crank but will not start. May be days or week starts fine then get in and it will not start but cranks fine. I try starting it 3 times with key this way then pump the gas pedal while cranking and sometimes it will start.
Yesterday did not start all day no matter pumping the gas pedal or just turning the key. Let it sit over night tried to start it this morning and started up just fine and ran fine. Car is in garage the whole time so no weather issues
#171 of 305 Re: Starting problems [shelena]
Dec 22, 2009 (4:01 pm)
I have the same thing going on with my 2001. What was the problem?
#172 of 305 Re: 92 LeSabre starts most times but then no start [stvokc]
Dec 23, 2009 (4:51 pm)
You are going to have to do some checking if doing this yourself. Do you change your own spark plugs? If so take one of the old plugs and keep it read. When the car won't start, take off a spark plug wire from the front plug and connect it to your old plug and lay it on metal so the plug grounds to the motor. Have someone crank the car while you look to see if a nice blue spark jumps the gap in the plug. If so, you have spark.
I fyou determine you have spark, then you check for fuel. When you turn the key to ON the fuel pump should run for 3 seconds. If the blower and radio are off, you should be able to hear it run. That primes the fuel system with full pressure, if everything is working right. If the engine is cold and you don't hear the fuel pump, that may be your problem.
If you do hear the fuel pump and you have spark and the engine doesn't start, the question is do you have high enough pressure on the fuel and do you have injectors that are opening to squirt the fuel.
To check fuel pressure requires a fuel pressure gauge. I heard that some of the box stores (autozone, maybe) loan a fuel pressure gauge. You connect it to the Shraeder valve on the motor fuel lines and read the pressure. I believe it should be over 40. They may tell you at the store what is required.
If you have proper pressure, try feeling the injectors while someone cranks. I believe you can feel the injectors click.
#173 of 305 1997 Lesabre intermittent starting problem
Mar 27, 2010 (7:57 pm)
I have a 97 Lesabre with a 3.8l. approx 88,000 miles. It's had an intermittent starting problem since it was new. It will start without a problem for months, and every so often, it will crank but not start. If I wait sometimes 10 minutes, other times maybe 30 minutes, it fires right up. The problem happens more often when the car has sat overnight. This morning it would not start, turns over fine, but will not start. I noticed a clicking noise coming from the passenger kick panel, when the key was on. I went out a couple of hours later, turned the key, no clicking noise and fires right up. I made several trips to the dealer while under warranty, but they could never find the cause.
I fear it is in the ECM, just hoping someone has ran into this before. Thanks! Jay
#174 of 305 Re: 1997 Lesabre intermittent starting problem [jayrb_1]
Mar 28, 2010 (4:54 am)
To start it needs air, fuel, and spark.
Listen when you turn on the key without turning to start.
Does the fuel pump in the rear run for about 2 seconds and then shut off? That is priming the pressure in the system. If you hear no fuel pump on the occasions it doesn't start, you may not be getting that prime. I believe the fuel pump relay is on the A-pillar area next to the passenger's knees. Take off the plastic hush panel above the passenger's feet with about 5 screws and taps. There's a list of which fuse and which relay for the fuse box listed on top of the panel when you take it off.
If I'm right and the fuel pump relay is there, you have to determine if it's the one clicking and WHY it's clicking. The problem could be further along the circuit toward the fuel pump.
At 88,000 miles and 13 years, the fuel pump could be failing inside the tank. You need a pressure check on the fuel WHEN it's not starting. You can borrow or rent gauges from some auto stores: I'd try Autozone first.
Next you might have fuel injectors not cycling, so no fuel gets delivered. You might be able to have someone crank the car and touch the injectors to see if they are clicking as they shoot the squirt of fuel in.
Then there's spark. You take take an old spark plug and pull off one of the front wires to a plug and connect your spare plug. Lay it on the metal part of the motor for ground. Have someone crank and see if you're getting a good blue hot spark.
Good luck diagnosing.
Edit. Your ECM is under the air breather box near the left front headlight area. You're not hearing your ECM clicking.
Also the clicking might be from the electric motors that control the heater vanes that are above the passenger's feet.
Check your battery connections. Turn off the heater unit with the key ON and leave it a while so they cycle off. Then take off the battery terminals, negative first, and check for corrosion especially between the two cables on the positive. Clean, treat with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, and reassemble.
#175 of 305 will not start sometimes
May 08, 2010 (2:33 am)
I have a 95 Buick Lesabre. and i love the car. but sometimes it will not start at all. i would turn the key and nothing happens. security light comes on and all the power stuff does but will not turn over. i had it checked out they said it was the dimmer switch. that helped with a few other things wrong with the car but not this.i could get up go to a few stores. it would be about 2 hours or so. and at the last store i get in and it will not do anything. but if i get a jump it starts right up. but if that happens i go home. help plz!!!
#176 of 305 Re: will not start sometimes [dboyl13]
May 08, 2010 (8:35 am)
I would suggest checking the battery terminals for corrosion between the two positive terminal connectors. The negative needs to be taken off and checked carefully, then remove both positives and actually pull them apart and check the spacer between them.
Also check the terminal on the battery for looseness, leaking, etc.
If you battery is fairly new, it should test out okay. I would suggest having it tested at a local free check store, like Advance Auto where they put it on a tester for a while that does checks.
Then you're down to the VATS system. If the security light has been coming on an off while driving or the light comes on when you put the key in and turn to ON and the security light starts flashing, the problem may be reading the resistor chip in the key.
The wires from the lock cylinder at the top in the keyed portion go through the tilt part of the column and go to a connector down on the steering column. They break after being tilted many times. Or the two contacts inside the lock cylinder wear that touch the resistor on the key.
The resistance of the key can be replaced by putting a resistor series with the same resistance down on the bottom of the column and eliminating the wires to the top of the column at the wheel from the circuit.
Alarm shops replace these all the time to allow their alarm system to control starting the car.
VATS means vehicle anti theft system.
Other possibilites are corroded or loose connections at the starter motor.
Bad starter motor solenoid not making contact.
#177 of 305 It will crank eventually
May 17, 2010 (2:27 pm)
I have a Buick Le Sabre 1995 It is not starting with out pumping the gas pedal numerous of times, and even then it stalls like it has no gas until it kicks in I know its a fuel problem but I don't know exactly where to look. I just replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter it is still doing the same thing can u please help.
#178 of 305 Re: It will crank eventually [num_1grl]
May 17, 2010 (6:30 pm)
Pumping the pedal does not do anything on fuel injected, computer controlled cars. The only thing the pedal does is when it's depressed to the floor, the injectors are turned off--that's the way to clear a flooded engine that somehow got too much fuel, a rare event.
You are supposed to let the accelerator stay completely up. Don't put your foot on it.
I probably can't pick out a problem for you. But I can suggest things.
Try turning the key on for 2 seconds (until you hear the fuel pump kick off), then off and back on for 2 seconds, and a third time. Then turn the key to crank and see if that seems to consistently make a difference. This pumps up the pressure in the fuel line. A good pump has a valve that holds pressure in the fuel line for quite a while, but it might be not working. Or worse, you might have a seep of fuel in the fuel lines somewhere. Do you smell fuel around the car after it's parked a few minutes like there's a drip? With a new fuel pump all the lines should have been checked, but sometimes mechanics don't do the right thing.
A few people have had crankshaft position sensors go out on higher mileage cars, 125000 and up. One symptom for some is that the car will just stall and restart right away.
Have your spark plugs and wires been replaced within the last 50-60 K miles? If you're in a humid climate, damp wires shorting the spark might be giving a miss until they've run a part of minute.
I'm not sure this would give a problem like you're describing, but the fuel pressure regulator, FPR, is supposed to give different pressures from the fuel pump when there's no vacuum such as during cranking and full throttle, then it lowers the pressure when there's a high vacuum for normal driving.
the FPR sits hooked into the fuel line (under the gray cover that may be over your motor--that comes off when you take the oil cap off). It is round about two inches tall and has one vacuum line going into it.
Pull off the vacuum line and see if drops of liquid gasoline come out before you start the car and after it has run badly, with the motor off. Also see if the vacuum line rubber is rotted or cracked from dryness.
Does it give any symptoms any other time?
Does it do this every time on a cold start or warm start?
Another item that wouldn't give a consistent miss like a particular plug or wire does where they cause a loping miss is the spark control module. This might give a miss on all plugs randomly. It's the plate underneath the coils with the connector on the front end angled downward. You might clean and reinsert the connector. It has a small bolt holding it in if I recall.
And the last thing that would give symptoms a little more dramatic would be the computer. In 1994 and 1995 Bonnevilles and leSabres there was a higher failure rate of the actual computers.
I hope someone did some troubleshooting to determine you needed that expensive fuel pump. You might take it back to the garage that did the pump and ask them to check the fuel pressure on the system. Although a fuel pump after 125,000 might be a good replacement anyhow.
Good luck finding the cause and may it be easy and inexpensive.