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Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

167 messages,  Last post on Oct 23, 2009 at 4:08 AM

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What is this discussion about? Buick LeSabre, Engine, Sedan


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#162 of 167
Re: Stalling while Driving [imidazol97] by gboyle84
Oct 22, 2009 (3:12 pm)
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Oct 22, 2009 2:00 pm)

So my battery is good and my alternator is working I went ahead and replaced the side posts positive because it was stripped out and I put all three wires together to one single top post connector. The volt reading on the battery was 12.69 and checking the alternator I got 14 plus or minus .02, My little brother took a look to see ohms and said that something was drawing power, he did this by testing something on the alternator to the battery, not sure exactly.
 
I checked my lines and they appear good slightly cracked housing but no bubbles or sound when the car is running so I don't think that's causing an issue yet but I am replacing them to make sure.
 
The Idle is kinda off. Its not so much high as it is shaky. I had a J30 with a ton of misfiring problems and the Buick's shake at idle kinda of reminds me of a slight misfire. But again the rpm are not that much off from what they have been just a little bit rougher idle.
 
My brother checked the ERG or EGR or something to do with the vacuum lines at the top of the engine and said it was okay.
 
My wires say they are AC Delco premium and I got the car at 90K and they had claim it had just had a full tune up. So I think I am going to try to change out plugs wires and coils to just make sure.
 
Also the trip does not work since I changed out the VSS about 3 months ago, but the odometer is working. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
 
I didn't check the fuel pump but my car was low on gas so I just went and filled up with the new top post and while the car was not dying at every turn there was still a slight sputter and at one turn I put a little bit extra gas and it kind of hiccuped, didn't die but dropped rpm like it was dying then picked it back up, that turn was before the gas but after the connector was replaced.
 
I didn't replace my neg because it was not stripped and the wire seems slightly too short.
 
How could I check my CPS to make sure it still is functioning?
 
Thank you again for responding, again if any ideas keep them coming because I afraid to turn it over to a mech and not have any idea what the issue would be.
#163 of 167
Re: Stalling while Driving [gboyle84] by imidazol97
Oct 22, 2009 (3:57 pm)
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 3:12 pm)

Sounds like your brother is checking things. GEt a fuel pressure gauge, Autozone or others might loan them out, and check fuel pressure with the car idling and then with the vacuum hose pulled off the Fuel Pressure Regulator right next to the Schraeder valve when you tap in. I am not sure of pressure for your year, but they should be above 40.
 
Did you clean the MAF sensor? TAke it off and look at the two thin wires with tiny heat sinks in the middle for fuzz. Clean with spray mentioned above. Do not touch the wires.
#164 of 167
Re: Stalling while Driving [gboyle84] by imidazol97
Oct 22, 2009 (4:02 pm)
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 3:12 pm)

Checks for crankshaft position sensor problems are not good. With some cars, they don't restart right away after dying hot. Throw cold water on the CPS cools it and the car starts right back up.
 
Another thing to mention is that more people than average have had trouble with the computer on 94 and 95 H-bodies, leSabres and Bonnevilles. You may be looking at a new computer (rebuilt) where you change the prom you have into the new remanufactured computer.
 
I think the original wires said Packard Electric. So ifyours say Delco or AC on them, they have probably been replaced. If they haven't hardened from heat, they are probably fairly fresh.
 
This case really begs for someone with another running equivalent car where you can switch the MAF sensors and switch the computer to see if that fixes your problem. j
 
Otherwise you need a Tech II or a computer analysis device to see what data the computer is seeing and sending.
#165 of 167
Re: Stalling while Driving [imidazol97] by gboyle84
Oct 22, 2009 (7:52 pm)
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Oct 22, 2009 4:02 pm)

So I took off the air filter and the elbow tube has a crack at the throttle body and that screen on the throttle body/MAF is dirty, so can I clean that screen with the MAF cleaner and can I clean that while its all still attached? Also, I took out the MAF to clean that and I am going to pick up the cleaner and new tube/pipe tomorrow to clean those off and a new air filter. when I took out the sensor just to get a better idea what it is, there was some sticky black "liquid" on the outer black housing like road gunk or really old oil that's all sticky. Anyway, wanted to see what ya thought about that. What OBD is the 95' buick cause I found a one and two plug so that confused me.
 
Do you think it could be the fuel filter? I have not changed that out, I'm guessing that the fuel gauge will tell me if that's bad.
 
Also, my horn doesn't work. I don't know it that has anything to do with this problem. My brother thinks that the car has a wiring malfunction in that some where there's a bad wire that's grounding out, do you think that may be the case?
 
Thanks again for all your help, if you are ever in Houston I'll buy ya a beer or something I really appreciate all the help.
#166 of 167
Re: Stalling while Driving [gboyle84] by gboyle84
Oct 22, 2009 (8:07 pm)
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 7:52 pm)

Also, I found this thread http://www.car-forums.com/talk/showthread.php?t=1951 where the guy was getting weird O2 sensor readings leading to looking at fuel pressure and that was weird too and would drop normally once it was hot. Just wanted to added this.
Thanks again
#167 of 167
Re: Stalling while Driving [gboyle84] by imidazol97
Oct 23, 2009 (4:08 am)
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 7:52 pm)

Not sure what the elbow tube is. Is that the air intake flex portion that's like an accordion? The screen on the air intake comes off with a snap ring. The screen is hard to pull out, just gently use paper clips or something to hook different parts around the perimeter and wiggle it out.
 
The MAF sensor needs to have the two wires inside clean. They catch fuzz and form bits that change their sensitivity. MAF spray helps. I also used a camel hair artist type brush to gently help the MAF cleaner.
 
IF the air intake was leaking dirty air after the air filter through the accordian, that would explain the dirt on the honeycomb and probably helps dirty up the MAF.
 
The black goo is oil fumes from when the car is shut off that come up into the upper intake manifold. The goop also can coat the inside of the metal throttle body where the butterfly valve needs to almost seal. Many people remove the throttle body (3 difficult screws and lots of attachments) as a regular cleaning. It's difficult to clean with the throttle body on the car with just the honeycomb screen removed.
 
The black goo blocks the air that is supposed to leak around the edge of the butterfly throttle plate and upsets the ability of the idle air control to bleed enough air to keep proper idle.
 
The horn has a relay in the relay center. On one diagram that may be a different year, it's the 2nd from the passenger side. First is AC compressor, then horn relay. They may be the same part number and you can interchange them to test to see if the horn works with a different relay. That's the first thing to check.

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