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Sedans Buick LeSabre Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems
168 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 1:45 PM
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 1:39 pm) But The first thing I'd do is get the battery checked. Places like Advance Auto will check it for you along with the charging system. My concern would be the two positive battery cables that are one on top of the other. TAke them off and take them apart and check for corrosion between them. There should be a lead spacer in between. Those are replaceable; someone said theirs was crushed and didn't make good contact with the cable vs the length of the bolt going into the battery contact. Check the copper wire going down into the plastic covering to be sure it's intact and not corroding away with acid from the battery. You might have a connection problem. You might have a defective battery problem. You might clean the battery positive cable end at the alternator and at the relay center on the dash. Remove the negative cable first before doing any of this. You may have a MAF sensor that's not letting it idle and is giving bad data on the air flow rate so when the extra load of a turn signal hits, it affects the engine speed too much. These can be cleaned with a spray MAF sensor cleaner from the auto stores. Do not touch the wires in the sensor with anything. They are sensitive. Do you have any vacuum leaks in rubber tubing around the motor. It's 13 years old and heat and gasoline vapors deteriorate those rubber tubes. You didn't mention getting a high idle, but you may have deteriorating rubber at the ends, especially check the bottom sides of tubes. They may be upsetting the idle mixture making the car sensitive to changes in load that occur quickly. BUT the crankshaft position sensor is a likely suspect because of your problem increasing with heat. The CPS is under the harmonic balancer. Also the connector on the spark control under the coils may have bad contact or maybe the spark control is going bad. Have spark plug wires and plugs been replaced in 30-40k miles? Are plugs AC/Delco? Sometimes people put in other plugs and have trouble. How is the fuel pump pressure. Low pressure could cause strange symptoms and as they heat up sometimes the pumps lose pressure and cause problems. But restarting immediately wouldn't occur with an overheated pump. It would cool a while. Same for crankshaft position sensor. But you do need to verify your aren't driving with a battery with low voltage so that the turn signal connection is affective the driveability.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Oct 22, 2009 2:00 pm) I checked my lines and they appear good slightly cracked housing but no bubbles or sound when the car is running so I don't think that's causing an issue yet but I am replacing them to make sure. The Idle is kinda off. Its not so much high as it is shaky. I had a J30 with a ton of misfiring problems and the Buick's shake at idle kinda of reminds me of a slight misfire. But again the rpm are not that much off from what they have been just a little bit rougher idle. My brother checked the ERG or EGR or something to do with the vacuum lines at the top of the engine and said it was okay. My wires say they are AC Delco premium and I got the car at 90K and they had claim it had just had a full tune up. So I think I am going to try to change out plugs wires and coils to just make sure. Also the trip does not work since I changed out the VSS about 3 months ago, but the odometer is working. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. I didn't check the fuel pump but my car was low on gas so I just went and filled up with the new top post and while the car was not dying at every turn there was still a slight sputter and at one turn I put a little bit extra gas and it kind of hiccuped, didn't die but dropped rpm like it was dying then picked it back up, that turn was before the gas but after the connector was replaced. I didn't replace my neg because it was not stripped and the wire seems slightly too short. How could I check my CPS to make sure it still is functioning? Thank you again for responding, again if any ideas keep them coming because I afraid to turn it over to a mech and not have any idea what the issue would be. |
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 3:12 pm) Did you clean the MAF sensor? TAke it off and look at the two thin wires with tiny heat sinks in the middle for fuzz. Clean with spray mentioned above. Do not touch the wires. |
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 3:12 pm) Another thing to mention is that more people than average have had trouble with the computer on 94 and 95 H-bodies, leSabres and Bonnevilles. You may be looking at a new computer (rebuilt) where you change the prom you have into the new remanufactured computer. I think the original wires said Packard Electric. So ifyours say Delco or AC on them, they have probably been replaced. If they haven't hardened from heat, they are probably fairly fresh. This case really begs for someone with another running equivalent car where you can switch the MAF sensors and switch the computer to see if that fixes your problem. j Otherwise you need a Tech II or a computer analysis device to see what data the computer is seeing and sending.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Oct 22, 2009 4:02 pm) Do you think it could be the fuel filter? I have not changed that out, I'm guessing that the fuel gauge will tell me if that's bad. Also, my horn doesn't work. I don't know it that has anything to do with this problem. My brother thinks that the car has a wiring malfunction in that some where there's a bad wire that's grounding out, do you think that may be the case? Thanks again for all your help, if you are ever in Houston I'll buy ya a beer or something I really appreciate all the help.
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 7:52 pm) Thanks again |
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Replying to: gboyle84 (Oct 22, 2009 7:52 pm) The MAF sensor needs to have the two wires inside clean. They catch fuzz and form bits that change their sensitivity. MAF spray helps. I also used a camel hair artist type brush to gently help the MAF cleaner. IF the air intake was leaking dirty air after the air filter through the accordian, that would explain the dirt on the honeycomb and probably helps dirty up the MAF. The black goo is oil fumes from when the car is shut off that come up into the upper intake manifold. The goop also can coat the inside of the metal throttle body where the butterfly valve needs to almost seal. Many people remove the throttle body (3 difficult screws and lots of attachments) as a regular cleaning. It's difficult to clean with the throttle body on the car with just the honeycomb screen removed. The black goo blocks the air that is supposed to leak around the edge of the butterfly throttle plate and upsets the ability of the idle air control to bleed enough air to keep proper idle. The horn has a relay in the relay center. On one diagram that may be a different year, it's the 2nd from the passenger side. First is AC compressor, then horn relay. They may be the same part number and you can interchange them to test to see if the horn works with a different relay. That's the first thing to check. |
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| I have a 2004 Lesabre. After we fill up the gas tank, the car stalls or spuders and then dies. It will start up again, but then repeats then stalls again. After 5 mins or so it will quit. I does not do this if we do not fill up the tank. Any help would be great! | |
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