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Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

279 messages,  Last post on May 19, 2013 at 10:11 PM

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What is this discussion about? Buick LeSabre, Engine, Sedan

Messages Page 16 of 28

#149 of 279 Re: 95 buick lesabre dies when hot [korfhole] by imidazol97

Aug 21, 2009 (5:25 pm)

Replying to: korfhole (Aug 20, 2009 8:07 pm)
Are you saying the miss wasn't there before repairing the oil leak?
 
Assuming it was, my first guess would be spark plugs and wires. It should have the correct AC/Delco plugs or NGK equivalent (NGK makes the Delco plugs I'm told).
 
You can check to see if the wires give sparks with spraying water on them in the dark from a mister bottle for plants, e.g. Or run a well-insulated screwdriver along the wires and the weak spots will jump to the metal, but make sure you have one with a good insulating handle.
 
Coils and the plate under them are another possibility. Coils break down when hot. Also they get corrosion on the contacts they sit down onto that are part of the ESC plate. If you can get a test the computer from a place that has the right cables... why didn't AutoZone get a test? is yours one of the 1.5 type connectors that require the right cable?
 
Corrosion on the coils and plate under them or a coil breaking down might show if it gives a miss that's primarily on two cylinders served by a coil.
 
BUT 1994 and 1995 H-bodies (Bonnevilles too) seem to have a higher failure ont he computer itself. The ragged running sounds like a neighbor's car that needed a new junkyard computer.
 
But breaking down with higher temp sounds like a coil. If you like recycling yards, you might pick up replacement coils and try switching them in--but inspect yours first along with the connector at the end of the plate under them for good connections. Take it off and clean. it.

#150 of 279 93' Buick Lesabre stalls while driving by holyhammerr

Aug 22, 2009 (10:22 pm)

I have a 93' Buick Lesabre it stalls on me while driving usually once to twice a day, and gradually got worse. Most of the time you could wait a few mins and start it right back up, but the last time it set over a half hour before it would start back up. It usually stalls while im slowing down, but the last time was while i was merging on the interstate. It drives smooth when it is running though, ive heard several possible things it could be but nothing from an acually mechanic, Anyone have any clue what is wrong with my car?

#151 of 279 Re: 93' Buick Lesabre stalls while driving [holyhammerr] by imidazol97

Aug 23, 2009 (5:37 am)

Replying to: holyhammerr (Aug 22, 2009 10:22 pm)
There are several smaller things to check. Do not throw parts at the car.
 
Because it stalls while slowing down, I would check the EGR. I don't recall if it's electric or vacuum on that year without checking an old factory service manual from my 93 I used to have (150 K miles-my wife made me trade it for another leSabre). If it is vacuum, pull off the vacuum hose, and plug it with a golf tee or a pencil or a wooden skewer stick from the kitchen. Then drive it a while. Dirt may be preventing the EGR from closing completely once in a while. The EGR doesn't work until the motor warms up; does it ever stall while the engine is less than full temp on the gauge? But EGR usually closes when the car shuts off completely. That gives a quick restart.
 
Another is the MAF sensor. Do not replace with off brand. Rather get cleaner for air intake or MAF cleaner at store and spray the tiny wires to clean them. Do not touch them. I used a camel hair artists brush to clean while they were wet with the solvent.
 
Or the crankshaft position sensor behind the harmonic balancer may be failing. Often they act up when hot. Splashing cold water on them if the car stalls will help them cool and the car starts. That's worth carrying a milk jug of water to test if it stalls again.Locate the sensor while the car's cool, then you'll know where to splash the water if it stalls. But crankshaft position sensors should fail just driving as well rather than only when slowing down.
 
Also check connections on the end of the ESC under the coils. Someone reported a poor ground connection which occasionally failed. Pull the connector and clean and check all the contacts.
 
Another wear item is the ignition switch contacts which are actually down on the top of the steering column near the base. It's operated by a rod from the switch at the top. The contacts inside wear and burn with use and years. The ignition contact may break contact while other contacts supplying power to other things stay connected. But you are saying that it doesn't restart fairly easily...

#152 of 279 Re: 93' Buick Lesabre stalls while driving [imidazol97] by holyhammerr

Aug 25, 2009 (10:52 pm)

Replying to: imidazol97 (Aug 23, 2009 5:37 am)
thanks for the advice, no the car only stalls while its warmed up a bit. It was confusing me because the check engine light never came on. I looked at it the other day and it sounds like there might be a vacume leak, not sure yet, but ill keep u posted.

#153 of 279 1992 Buick Lesabre OBD Code 58 by smokenuryz

Sep 27, 2009 (1:01 pm)

1992 Buick LeSabre serpentine belt broke, was replaced, now car won't start ~ OBD code 58, fuel enable circuit. Car never had remote keyless entry, owner has 1 door key and 1 ignition key (Passkey). How to reset circuit? Is there a procedure to follow if you don't have the remote transmitter? Thanks

#154 of 279 Stalls while driving - electrical problem by ljam05

Sep 30, 2009 (5:44 pm)

My son has a 97 LeSabre. Its starting to really rot out (Buffalo winters are brutal). Twice now, the car died while he was driving it. One time it was raining the other it was dry for a week. Both times it died, it wouldn't start. Everything worked except the power windows. All the lights, radio, blower, everything worked. The car cranked strong, just would fire. Both times we waited several hours and the car started right up and was fine. I checked all the fuses and cleaned the battery terminals. I'm at a loss when it comes to electrical problems. Anyone have any ideas?

#155 of 279 Re: Stalls while driving - electrical problem [ljam05] by imidazol97

Oct 01, 2009 (7:45 am)

Replying to: ljam05 (Sep 30, 2009 5:44 pm)
> The car cranked strong, just would fire.
 
Did you mean, "...just would NOT fire?" If so, I'd starting thinking about corrosion from Buffalo salt and moisture. Check the connection on the front of the coil ignition control (the slab the coils mount on). There's a connector at the front that a few people have commented gives trouble especially the ground wire on it.
 
If you could determine when it won't start if there is spark that would help. Pull off a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it and lay it on the metal of the motor and see if you get spark while cranking.
 
You _might_ have a crankshaft position sensor giving trouble. It controls giving a pulse to fire the plugs and injectors, but it should have a back up pulse it uses.
 
You can see if the injectors are firing by touching one while cranking and feel the click as it squirts. Try it when the car's running so you know what it feels like--or you can disconnect the electric wire at one and put the ends of a 194 little running light bulb into the socket and watch the light flash when the injector is fired while cranking.
 
But I'm guessing you need to check the positive battery cables. Cut back into the plastic connectors to see the copper wiring. Separate the two big cables which are clamped against each other by one bolt onto the batter. Look for corrosion between where there's a lead spacer. Those are replaceable. Check the other end of the cable from the positive that goes to the relay center on the firewall. It provides positive power to lots of relays and large fuses there. One person reported a bad wire at that end and replaced the whole thing for $40-50 if I recall. Probably could be repaired.
 
Check the buss grounds that are under the carpet on the driver's side and passenger side. They are under the carpet at the door sill right where you feet come into the car with lots of snow and rain dripping on them. There can even be salt in the snow. The ground buss has electrical tape all around it making it look like a bundle until you open it.
 

 

 
These are not my pictures but are from somewhere on the web. But they show the corrosion on the buss grounds.
 
You might have a fuel pressure problem, but you need to have a pressure gauge to check that. Has the fuel pump in the tank ever been replaced?

#156 of 279 Re: Stalls while driving - electrical problem [ljam05] by imidazol97

Oct 01, 2009 (7:47 am)

Replying to: ljam05 (Sep 30, 2009 5:44 pm)
> The car cranked strong, just would fire.
 
Did you mean, "...just would NOT fire?" If so, I'd starting thinking about corrosion from Buffalo salt and moisture. Check the connection on the front of the coil ignition control (the slab the coils mount on). There's a connector at the front that a few people have commented gives trouble especially the ground wire on it.
 
If you could determine when it won't start if there is spark that would help. Pull off a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it and lay it on the metal of the motor and see if you get spark while cranking.
 
You _might_ have a crankshaft position sensor giving trouble. It controls giving a pulse to fire the plugs and injectors, but it should have a back up pulse it uses.
 
You can see if the injectors are firing by touching one while cranking and feel the click as it squirts. Try it when the car's running so you know what it feels like--or you can disconnect the electric wire at one and put the ends of a 194 little running light bulb into the socket and watch the light flash when the injector is fired while cranking.
 
But I'm guessing you need to check the positive battery cables. Cut back into the plastic connectors to see the copper wiring. Separate the two big cables which are clamped against each other by one bolt onto the batter. Look for corrosion between where there's a lead spacer. Those are replaceable. Check the other end of the cable from the positive that goes to the relay center on the firewall. It provides positive power to lots of relays and large fuses there. One person reported a bad wire at that end and replaced the whole thing for $40-50 if I recall. Probably could be repaired.
 
Check the buss grounds that are under the carpet on the driver's side and passenger side. They are under the carpet at the door sill right where you feet come into the car with lots of snow and rain dripping on them. There can even be salt in the snow. The ground buss has electrical tape all around it making it look like a bundle until you open it.
 
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/100_1930.jpg
 
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/bussbar.jpg
 
These are not my pictures but are from somewhere on the web. But they show the corrosion on the buss grounds.
 
You might have a fuel pressure problem, but you need to have a pressure gauge to check that. Has the fuel pump in the tank ever been replaced?

#157 of 279 Buick hesitation issue. by tony135

Oct 18, 2009 (9:47 pm)

I just perchess a 1995 Buick Lesabre 3.8 liter V6 with 56000 miles on it. the car sat for two years. I drained all the old gas and filled with fresh gas and changed the fuel filter and changed the spark plugs as well but hesitation still happens! what should I check to fixed this problem? otherwise car idles nice after the hesitation point runs ok.

#158 of 279 Stalling while Driving by gboyle84

Oct 21, 2009 (11:26 am)

I have a Buick lesabre 3.8 v6 that I recently had to replace the battery and alternator. Afterward I began to have loss of speedo and weird shifts so I replaced the VSS on the tranny housing and that worked. Now though the car dies on the road while driving and its warmed up and sometimes will come back right away sometimes I have to pull over and I fiddle with the terminals on the battery and it seems to start right up and no probs. The connectors are not really lose and when I got the new battery and alt I switched to top posts so they are are making good connections I just mess with the battery cause that was all I could think to do on the side of the highway. Now I have begun to notice when the blinker is on the volt gauge jumps with the blinker and the oil gauge bounces as well. The stalling has persisted and now it dies when slowing down, while maintaining speed, while turning, and seems to be random. Never really noticed any starting problems. I live in Houston so the car is pretty much always hot. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Messages Page 16 of 28

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