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Sedans Buick LeSabre Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems
167 messages, Last post on Oct 23, 2009 at 4:08 AM
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i was recenlty given a 95 lesabre that had a few problems. 1st was reapairing an oil leak from a bad oil sensor. now the car runs and drives great at first startup. the car will start right up and drive anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes. car has 105,000 miles. after it starts running bad and stalling, it is very difficult to keep the thing running. i finaly got it home tonight after dying maybe 6 times in about 4 blocks. after i got home a started it and it kept running but with a mis, making the car very shaky when in drive or reverse. i let it sit for a good hour or two and it started right up and ran fine. got it to auto zone but they couldnt check the codes. checked fuel regulator no gas in vac line. and ideas about when the car get hot?
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Replying to: korfhole (Aug 20, 2009 7:07 pm) Assuming it was, my first guess would be spark plugs and wires. It should have the correct AC/Delco plugs or NGK equivalent (NGK makes the Delco plugs I'm told). You can check to see if the wires give sparks with spraying water on them in the dark from a mister bottle for plants, e.g. Or run a well-insulated screwdriver along the wires and the weak spots will jump to the metal, but make sure you have one with a good insulating handle. Coils and the plate under them are another possibility. Coils break down when hot. Also they get corrosion on the contacts they sit down onto that are part of the ESC plate. If you can get a test the computer from a place that has the right cables... why didn't AutoZone get a test? is yours one of the 1.5 type connectors that require the right cable? Corrosion on the coils and plate under them or a coil breaking down might show if it gives a miss that's primarily on two cylinders served by a coil. BUT 1994 and 1995 H-bodies (Bonnevilles too) seem to have a higher failure ont he computer itself. The ragged running sounds like a neighbor's car that needed a new junkyard computer. But breaking down with higher temp sounds like a coil. If you like recycling yards, you might pick up replacement coils and try switching them in--but inspect yours first along with the connector at the end of the plate under them for good connections. Take it off and clean. it. |
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I have a 93' Buick Lesabre it stalls on me while driving usually once to twice a day, and gradually got worse. Most of the time you could wait a few mins and start it right back up, but the last time it set over a half hour before it would start back up. It usually stalls while im slowing down, but the last time was while i was merging on the interstate. It drives smooth when it is running though, ive heard several possible things it could be but nothing from an acually mechanic, Anyone have any clue what is wrong with my car?
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Replying to: holyhammerr (Aug 22, 2009 9:22 pm) Because it stalls while slowing down, I would check the EGR. I don't recall if it's electric or vacuum on that year without checking an old factory service manual from my 93 I used to have (150 K miles-my wife made me trade it for another leSabre). If it is vacuum, pull off the vacuum hose, and plug it with a golf tee or a pencil or a wooden skewer stick from the kitchen. Then drive it a while. Dirt may be preventing the EGR from closing completely once in a while. The EGR doesn't work until the motor warms up; does it ever stall while the engine is less than full temp on the gauge? But EGR usually closes when the car shuts off completely. That gives a quick restart. Another is the MAF sensor. Do not replace with off brand. Rather get cleaner for air intake or MAF cleaner at store and spray the tiny wires to clean them. Do not touch them. I used a camel hair artists brush to clean while they were wet with the solvent. Or the crankshaft position sensor behind the harmonic balancer may be failing. Often they act up when hot. Splashing cold water on them if the car stalls will help them cool and the car starts. That's worth carrying a milk jug of water to test if it stalls again.Locate the sensor while the car's cool, then you'll know where to splash the water if it stalls. But crankshaft position sensors should fail just driving as well rather than only when slowing down. Also check connections on the end of the ESC under the coils. Someone reported a poor ground connection which occasionally failed. Pull the connector and clean and check all the contacts. Another wear item is the ignition switch contacts which are actually down on the top of the steering column near the base. It's operated by a rod from the switch at the top. The contacts inside wear and burn with use and years. The ignition contact may break contact while other contacts supplying power to other things stay connected. But you are saying that it doesn't restart fairly easily...
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Aug 23, 2009 4:37 am) |
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| 1992 Buick LeSabre serpentine belt broke, was replaced, now car won't start ~ OBD code 58, fuel enable circuit. Car never had remote keyless entry, owner has 1 door key and 1 ignition key (Passkey). How to reset circuit? Is there a procedure to follow if you don't have the remote transmitter? Thanks | |
My son has a 97 LeSabre. Its starting to really rot out (Buffalo winters are brutal). Twice now, the car died while he was driving it. One time it was raining the other it was dry for a week. Both times it died, it wouldn't start. Everything worked except the power windows. All the lights, radio, blower, everything worked. The car cranked strong, just would fire. Both times we waited several hours and the car started right up and was fine. I checked all the fuses and cleaned the battery terminals. I'm at a loss when it comes to electrical problems. Anyone have any ideas?
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Replying to: ljam05 (Sep 30, 2009 4:44 pm) Did you mean, "...just would NOT fire?" If so, I'd starting thinking about corrosion from Buffalo salt and moisture. Check the connection on the front of the coil ignition control (the slab the coils mount on). There's a connector at the front that a few people have commented gives trouble especially the ground wire on it. If you could determine when it won't start if there is spark that would help. Pull off a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it and lay it on the metal of the motor and see if you get spark while cranking. You _might_ have a crankshaft position sensor giving trouble. It controls giving a pulse to fire the plugs and injectors, but it should have a back up pulse it uses. You can see if the injectors are firing by touching one while cranking and feel the click as it squirts. Try it when the car's running so you know what it feels like--or you can disconnect the electric wire at one and put the ends of a 194 little running light bulb into the socket and watch the light flash when the injector is fired while cranking. But I'm guessing you need to check the positive battery cables. Cut back into the plastic connectors to see the copper wiring. Separate the two big cables which are clamped against each other by one bolt onto the batter. Look for corrosion between where there's a lead spacer. Those are replaceable. Check the other end of the cable from the positive that goes to the relay center on the firewall. It provides positive power to lots of relays and large fuses there. One person reported a bad wire at that end and replaced the whole thing for $40-50 if I recall. Probably could be repaired. Check the buss grounds that are under the carpet on the driver's side and passenger side. They are under the carpet at the door sill right where you feet come into the car with lots of snow and rain dripping on them. There can even be salt in the snow. The ground buss has electrical tape all around it making it look like a bundle until you open it.   These are not my pictures but are from somewhere on the web. But they show the corrosion on the buss grounds. You might have a fuel pressure problem, but you need to have a pressure gauge to check that. Has the fuel pump in the tank ever been replaced? |
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Replying to: ljam05 (Sep 30, 2009 4:44 pm) Did you mean, "...just would NOT fire?" If so, I'd starting thinking about corrosion from Buffalo salt and moisture. Check the connection on the front of the coil ignition control (the slab the coils mount on). There's a connector at the front that a few people have commented gives trouble especially the ground wire on it. If you could determine when it won't start if there is spark that would help. Pull off a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it and lay it on the metal of the motor and see if you get spark while cranking. You _might_ have a crankshaft position sensor giving trouble. It controls giving a pulse to fire the plugs and injectors, but it should have a back up pulse it uses. You can see if the injectors are firing by touching one while cranking and feel the click as it squirts. Try it when the car's running so you know what it feels like--or you can disconnect the electric wire at one and put the ends of a 194 little running light bulb into the socket and watch the light flash when the injector is fired while cranking. But I'm guessing you need to check the positive battery cables. Cut back into the plastic connectors to see the copper wiring. Separate the two big cables which are clamped against each other by one bolt onto the batter. Look for corrosion between where there's a lead spacer. Those are replaceable. Check the other end of the cable from the positive that goes to the relay center on the firewall. It provides positive power to lots of relays and large fuses there. One person reported a bad wire at that end and replaced the whole thing for $40-50 if I recall. Probably could be repaired. Check the buss grounds that are under the carpet on the driver's side and passenger side. They are under the carpet at the door sill right where you feet come into the car with lots of snow and rain dripping on them. There can even be salt in the snow. The ground buss has electrical tape all around it making it look like a bundle until you open it. http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/100_1930.jpg http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/bussbar.jpg These are not my pictures but are from somewhere on the web. But they show the corrosion on the buss grounds. You might have a fuel pressure problem, but you need to have a pressure gauge to check that. Has the fuel pump in the tank ever been replaced? |
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| I just perchess a 1995 Buick Lesabre 3.8 liter V6 with 56000 miles on it. the car sat for two years. I drained all the old gas and filled with fresh gas and changed the fuel filter and changed the spark plugs as well but hesitation still happens! what should I check to fixed this problem? otherwise car idles nice after the hesitation point runs ok. | |
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