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Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

168 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 1:45 PM
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93 lasabre stalls when stopping but starts right back up...what could be causing this?
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Replying to: buicksucks (Jul 03, 2009 7:55 am)
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Replying to: stephen987 (Jul 03, 2009 8:47 am) He could try putting the car in neutral when coming to a stop where it's most likely to stall and see if that avoids the stall. It also can be a weak fuel pump. It can be a crankshaft position sensor, but those usually give trouble at other times as well. It might be a MAF sensor. Those are easy to clean with a spray for MAF sensors or air intake cleaning. The little wires collect dirt. But those wires break easily. I spray and then touch the wires with the hairs of a camel hair artists brush. I very likely could be a sticking EGR valve. The connector at the EGR valve could be disconnected when it's likely to be stalling and see if that avoids the stall. The EGR could be sticking on adding EGR gases to the intake causing the stall. By the time the car is cranked the vibration has edged the EGR closed like it should be. Those took can be removed and cleaned, but don't get liquid cleaner up into the area where the control motors are. |
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Replying to: folderqueen (Apr 06, 2009 6:56 pm) |
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I just went out and bought new spark plugs and wires to put on for $100.00. I have put $4,000.00 into my car this month and like it perfect. I replace all bulbs and do some work on it so I figured I could do this. I have no idea where to start. Do you think I can do it? I am a 57 year old women who does get takin to the cleaners at the dealership all the time. I need to know what to pull. Thank you. Sandyi
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Replying to: sandyi (Jul 20, 2009 10:31 am) |
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Hello all. Have a 2000 LeSabre Custom with 65K miles. Owned vehicle since new. Highway cruising at a steady 55 MPH steady speed, then accelerate to 70MPH, the engine bucks a bit, but will smooth out after a short time. No check engine light, no pending codes, fuel economy has decreased about 5 MPG. Now the replacement list; Intake Manifold, TPS, Plugs, Wires, Coils, EGR valve, Oxygen Sensor, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, MAP sensor, and Catalytic Converter (it was bad - the elements were loose). Cleaned MAF, cleaned Injectors (while Intake was being replaced). Checked fuel pressure; idle 45 PSI, idle with regulator hose off, 55 PSI, accelerating to 3500 RPM, 55 PSI. Compression check; all cylinders between 200 and 210 PSI - compression builds quickly. Engine oil changed at 3K mile intervals (Mobil 1 10W30) and drinks 1/2 quart between changes. Any ideas? Wish the PCM/ECM would give me a hint. Perhaps ignition module? Knock sensor? Please help me save a few bucks here and get this old ride back in shape. Thank you.
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Replying to: sysanalyst (Aug 08, 2009 5:21 pm) You might check the wires with a grounded screwdriver moved over them while running to see if you attract a leaking spark. But I'd just replace the mess of them for $40 or so at NAPA with AAA discount or AC/Delco wires at other volume suppliers.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Aug 09, 2009 6:12 am)
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Replying to: sysanalyst (Aug 09, 2009 6:54 pm) You've changed the EGR already. You might try driving with a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield (duct tape) to see if something unusual is happening to the pressures at certain times. Fuel pumps can be fickle. Your handle is systems analyst. I presume you are computer literate. Consider buying the program and connectors for your laptop to follow what the computer and sensors are doing while driving when that occurs. Or someone you know may already have a setup. Or you can buy a Tech II. How did the spark plugs look that you removed? I hope you numbered each one and kept them... Were they white porcelain with slight grey tones on it? |
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