Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

278 messages,  Last post on May 17, 2013 at 5:41 AM

You are in the Buick LeSabre Forum.

What is this discussion about? Buick LeSabre, Engine, Sedan

#269 of 278 Re: Buick Just dies while driving [bobbyding] by sagemoon

Dec 15, 2012 (1:51 am)

Replying to: bobbyding (Dec 13, 2012 10:56 pm)
thanks, I put in a new mass air flow sensor today and drove the buick around the block, I could tell it was acting happier, accelerated good and did not cut out going up a 45 degree slope. Went up a little more steeper slope and very lightly tried to cut out plus was not trying to die every time I slowed down. However, my check engine light is still on! Maybe the next thing is the crank sensor, looks really involved to try and change myself though.

#270 of 278 2004 LeSabre will not start by whoppa

Dec 26, 2012 (5:10 pm)

Well, I had a new starter put on my vehicle thinking that was the problem as to why it would not start. So, it started about 3 or 4 times since the new starter has been put, but currently is not starting. Also, when I started it for the 1st time since putting the new starter on, the engine was a little shaky. After, I drove it a few miles and turned it off and on, the shaking gradually stopped. So, then I ran a few errands and the car was fine, but after running my last errand the car would not start. That has been 2 days ago and the car still will not start. Could somebody please tell me what the hell is going on?

#271 of 278 Windshield Wiper Arms by seltzergal

Jan 14, 2013 (4:11 pm)

I'd like to know if the original wiper arms on the 1993 LeSabre were the hook or peg style. I purchased a pair of Bosch Evolution #4822 wipers which are "supposed" to fit the 1993; but they don't. The hole isn't big enough to fit over the peg. When I phoned Bosch they asked if they were the original arms. I can't answer that because I bought the car used about 3 years ago. The Bosch tech was surprised I didn't have the hook style. When I last had wipers put on, the mechanic had problems getting a size with a hole that would fit the peg. So I'm wondering if these are the original arms. Thanks for any help you can give me!
 
 

#272 of 278 Re: 2004 LeSabre will not start [whoppa] by imidazol97

Jan 14, 2013 (4:33 pm)

Replying to: whoppa (Dec 26, 2012 5:10 pm)
There are many things that could be the problem. Diagnosis may help find it. Are you able to do things to diagnose?
 
You are saying it will not start. Is that it will not crank or that it will crank but won't fire up and run normally?
 
If it won't crank, do you have more than one key? Try the other key to see if the security system likes that key.
 
If it cranks and won't start, does the exhaust smell like gasoline? Hold the accelerator to the floor while cranking to clear flooding. Then pull of the vacuum tube on the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and see if you smell raw gasoline in the tube. If the car does start, pull off the tube and see if gasoline comes out the opening of the FPR after 2 minutes of idling or more? There should be none.
 
If it cranks and it won't start, take off one of the front spark plug wires and lay it against metal. Have someone crank the car. The spark should jump the 1/4 inch gap with a blue spark. If there's no spark, then you have narrowed down your problem to a bad spark control module (ignition control module under the three coils) or the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) which is one thing that triggers the spark.
 
Is there full fuel pressure? Weak fuel pump? Or a badly plugged fuel filter? One test would be to spray ether or carburetor cleaner into the throttle body as someone cranks. You must take off the rubber tube leading up to it from the air filter assembly.
 
Another thing is the MAF. The test is to take off the leads to the MAF and see if the car starts.
 
If it runs really badly, it could be spark plug wires (test by spraying water with a bit of salt in it over the wires while car's running to see if you get sparking). Or it could be the EGR, and that can be tested by tapping on it with something heavy like the end of a screwdriver to make sure the opening is closed off by the plunger.
 
http://www.greatautohelp.com/sensor-location/3800.html

#273 of 278 buick problems by bildabone

May 16, 2013 (6:08 pm)

while driving my car stalls.IT will not stsrt.I changed the fuel filter ,put a new mass air flow sensor,and a fuel pressure regulater.It started right up and ran fine.I turned it off and it till not start. I checked the fuel pump with a fuel pressure gage and it read 43 psi.Like its supposed to . I dont know what else to do.

#274 of 278 Re: buick problems [bildabone] by imidazol97

May 16, 2013 (7:14 pm)

Replying to: bildabone (May 16, 2013 6:08 pm)
Does it start after it has sat for a time, say 30 minutes? If it cuts off like a switchw as cut off but then restarts after a time, the crankshaft position sensor is a likely culprit. You can try moving the wires to it and squeezing the connector for those wires to see if it's a connection or a break in a wire to the crankshaft position sensor--with the car off, of course.
 
If it stalls, you can try throwing cold water on the crankshaft position sensor to cool it. That sometimes speeds the restart.
 
The other possiblility with an electrical shut off like that is the spark control module connections or the module itself under the coils.
 
To test for the crank or spark control, remove one of the spark plug wires on the front and lay it on engine metal. With someone cranking the car, there should be spark to ground. No spark means you're not getting that.

#275 of 278 Re: buick problems [imidazol97] by bildabone

May 16, 2013 (7:30 pm)

Replying to: imidazol97 (May 16, 2013 7:14 pm)
i forgot to mention that when I put some starting fluid in the intake it fires up for a second

#276 of 278 Re: buick problems [bildabone] by imidazol97

May 16, 2013 (8:21 pm)

Replying to: bildabone (May 16, 2013 7:30 pm)
That's a good test and helps.
 
What year is your car?
 
So, you need to test the injectors to see if they are firing. People say you can use the two leads of a 194 bulb and put those into the connector for an injector while cranking and you should be able to see the very short flash as the 12 volt pulse hits. Or use a voltmeter.
 
From what I read, if you have no pulse to the injectors that can be related to the crankshaft position sensor as well. Or there is a fuse, according to this article, on the passenger side A pillar below the dash where there are relays and a few fuses. There is a 10 amp fuse on that inside board on my 98 for the injectors power. The injectors are fired by grounding through the PCM. I've been assuming your car is a 92-99 model. If you have a 94-95, the PCMs occasionally have more problems than other years, but those often involve rough running or barely running.
 
Here's a long 5 page discussion of a problem that might include diagnotic steps that will help you. Good luck with this one.

#277 of 278 Re: buick problems [imidazol97] by bildabone

May 16, 2013 (10:36 pm)

Replying to: imidazol97 (May 16, 2013 8:21 pm)
Before I go any further .Please tell me if this is possible,with all of the injecters out but connected to the fuel rail,if I crank the engine will the injecters fire off and release fuel,ifr everything is working correctly.And by the way its a 94 lasabre

#278 of 278 Re: buick problems [bildabone] by imidazol97

May 17, 2013 (5:41 am)

Replying to: bildabone (May 16, 2013 10:36 pm)
The injector is grounded through the black wire to the connector and gets power on the other line, so it should spray fuel: doesn't need to be connected to engine. But I don't know if that's safe, because it will be spraying out fuel in a vapor in a very explosive form if it finds a weak plug wire, etc.
 
But since the car runs with ether, you're doing the right kind of troubleshooting.
 
If you have a voltmeter try testing for a pulse when the PCM grounds each injector while cranking. Did you read the link I put in the prevous post? Is your injector fuse okay providing power? Note that you have a 94 with the higher failure rate on PCMs.
 
BTW, did you disconnect the MAF sensor to see if the car would run with it off putting the car back in a different mode? MAF sensors get replaced because they are easy to blame. I've never had to do one on 4 cars that have had one even with high mileage. I read more about problems with replacement brands in Bonneville and leSabre discussions. AND disconnecting it and the car working in a limp mode does not mean the MAF is bad. It's only a diagnostic step. A longtime shade tree mechanic up the road from me worked on another neighbor's Monte Carlo, 95, and symptoms of running rough and occasionally dying. Disconnected MAF, ran. Replaced. Still had problem. Disconnected MAP. Ran. Replaced. Still had problem. Took to transmission buddy who knows diagnostics and had engine tools, and it turned out to be something else. But they had put hundreds into the MAF and MAP sensor on the 24-valve engine.
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