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Buick LeSabre: General Care & Maintenance

48 messages, Last post on Sep 21, 2009 at 6:41 PM
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I know this is a question that's been answered, so pardon me for asking it again. I inherited a 2001 LeSabre from my Mom. I recently took it to my "maintenance" mechanic to have the coolant changed (the car is very low mileage, and I wanted to freshen the coolant before I took it on a long trip) and he could not find a drain for the radiator. He seemed to think the bottom hose was too far up the block and the radiator to drain it properly. He said the coolant was nice and pink and smelled fresh, so not to worry, but now I'm curious. Any help out there?
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Replying to: jgwin621 (Apr 24, 2006 1:33 pm) The DexCool should be changed every two years... just like the regular stuff. Many claim you won't have any of the alleged problems that DexCool might have caused in the past from being in too long. It's cheap insurance for me. |
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Replying to: jgwin621 (Apr 24, 2006 1:33 pm) When done, make sure you follow the procedure in the owner's manual for bleeding air out of the system by opening the bleed screws. While you are doing this, I recommend using a new Stant radiator cap. Kind of a long story, but Dex-cool does not mix well with air, and if you have a cap that leaks or has sediment on it, it allows air into the system causing problems. |
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Replying to: jgwin621 (Apr 24, 2006 1:33 pm) I have a 1996 Buick LeSabre with about 100,000 miles on it. I am very happy with the car. The only concern I have is that the rear of the car rides high and stiff. It all started after taking my three kids, luggage, cooler, and other goodies on a long trip. After unloading the trunk, instead of the car drifting down to its normal level, it rides high. It seems stuck in this mode. Sometimes it will ride lower and softer, but then it will ride high and stiff for weeks at a time. Is there an easy backyard mechanic fix?
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Replying to: pacecar3 (Jun 26, 2006 6:36 pm) I've read about vent valves not working back at the part that's behind the rear wheel that controls the adding air and venting air. You'd need to test connections there. You also might trying moving the wires that come out of the trunk and around those parts. My 98 had a broken wire that was in the air and water wash behind the right rear wheel. So the system wouldn't do anything. The wire had broken from being moved around in the wash behind the wheel. You need a service manual with a wiring diagram to properly track what's happening. I traced power from the front fuse panel to the rear before I found this problem. Since your car sometimes seems to operate properly you may have a broken wire making contact sometimes or a bad connector--but they're pretty well made so that's less likely based on my observation.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jun 27, 2006 6:47 am) I'll purchase the Haynes manual for it (good to have anyway) and follow your lead during the next backyard oil change or perhaps this weekend if time allows. Thanks again.
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Replying to: pacecar3 (Jun 27, 2006 5:09 pm) helminc.com Look at doityouself DIY for pricing. They might have a sale on yours. http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=&Mfg=GMC&Make=BUI&Model=LESA&Year=1- 996&Category=&Keyword=&Module=&mscsid=5TJL6M3L6SAP8NDC6R5WE3TWA8DL9JMA The $130 is for a multivolume set, two or three. I buy them when my car is new and get my money's worth out of it. Otherwise I'd check the used market; the internet has made that easy. Also, some major libraries have access to car manual copies like those. A major city near us has them online but you need to apply for their card to get a local user number--then you can access the info, and print, free. |
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Last year I bought a very clean 03 Lesabre with 32,800 miles. To me the oil looked dirty - much much worse than my 2 other cars which have 60,000 miles (a '99 Grand Marquis) and 91,000 miles(an '89 Chevy on which I've changed the oil and filter every 3K). But he gave me all the maintenance records which show oil/filter changes according to schedule. He used synthetic oil. I changed it and filter at 33K, 36K, 40K, 44K, using the synthetic oil. Each time the oil looks dirtier than that of my other cars. Now the Lesabre has 47K and it already looks dirty to me. The D.I.C. says the oil life is at 72%. So, my question is, does synthetic oil normally look that way, compared to regular oil? Or could there be dirt in the engine? |
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Maybe you folks can help me. Is there a write-up or procedure listed here that gives me a rundown on how to replace the front wheel/hub assembly on this car? The dealer wants way too much money for the job so I think I may tackle it, unless there are some special tools required. What does this take to do it? Thanks for any help. paul |
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I own a 1998 3.8 LeSabre Custom. To replace the serpentine belt you will need a 15 mm Deep Socket and a 18mm Deep socket. 1.Remove right tire. Remove plastic cover to access engine compartment through right tire well. 2.Remove Bottom Nut and Bolt from Motor mount that sits between bottom pulleys. There is a bolt with a removable sleeve that allows access with new belt to bottom pulleys. You may have to tap out the sleeve since it looks like a solid bar mounted to the engine block. 3. Job takes less than 1 hour if done right instead of the 4 and 5 hour nightmare posted on most websites. Your welcome. by joe kenney
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